I just went to get my front end aligned and the shop said there was too much slop in the idler arm and I'd have to fix that first (nice guys, they let me drive it home and fix it and not pay them to do it)

I have my Chilton's handy, and I see a bushing.... I assume this is what is bad. The guy at the shop mentioned a bearing or bushing on the idler arm. Can I just replace the bushing? Autozone and NAPA don't list bushings, only complete idler arm kits.

Also, my Chiltons talks about a tool #J-29193 or J-2914. I have no clue what they are talking about. It seats the tapers (on the bushing?) into the seal.

Thanks

 

You can't just replace the bushing, you need to replace the idler arm itself. It's fairly easy to do if you have the proper tools.

You are correct in that it does have a tapered seat, so go to your local Auto Zone and use their 'loan-a-tool" program to get a tie rod seperating fork (pickle fork) and take the cotter pin and nut off the idler arm, then drive the fork in between and the center link with a hammer. Should pop off with a couple of good hits. Then unbolt the idler arm from the side of the frame and replace it with the new one.

This should only be a 10-20 minute job not including jacking the car up and putting it on some stands.

 

Ok, I'll have to plunk down some more cash then.....

NAPA says $80-something or $30 something...
Autozone has a $20 and $40 one....

Whats difference here? I'd like to go cheap if thts not a bad thing to do (quality, ease of install etc)

I love autozone's tool loaning program!

Do I need a special tool for the install? The Chilton's seems to be more concerned about installing using Tool #x than removal. I'll probably answer my own question when I get the parts and start looking at stuff.

 

When you put the new one in the center link should be level to the rest of the car, maybe that install tool is a angle finder. Thats what I used on mine. IMHO, I prefer the puller type of joint seperater over the pitch fork style.

 

Ok, I have a gear puller, I'll try that first.

I will scribe the location of the mount before I take it off. Then I'll line up the new one to the markings.

 

Just a quick update - just like everything else I've done so far, one nut came off and the other is stuck

Time for the 8 foot cheater bar and the hydraulic jack (and a gallon of WD40)!