Adjusting Your Panhard Bar
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Adjusting Your Panhard Bar
I have recently installed an adjustable panhard bar. Today was first day I have drove it anywhere since install. I dont think I got it adjusted right. I measured from back of wheel to inner fender. I find this way very hard to do because of springs in the way, etc. Is their an easier way for DIY alignment? Yes, car was on its own weight, on tire ramps thru the whole process.
Also, I am having problems getting the end nuts to tighten because I dont have a tool that will fit in that upper mount. Has anyone seen/made a special tool to do this? I really dont want to cut on that upper mount.
Thanks for any tips on this.
Also, I am having problems getting the end nuts to tighten because I dont have a tool that will fit in that upper mount. Has anyone seen/made a special tool to do this? I really dont want to cut on that upper mount.
Thanks for any tips on this.
to adjust the panhard bar i just lif the car up by the rear end , right on the center section and the adjust it, the body will end up moving since the rear end is held but once its down theirs no problem. I never measure it i just eyeballed it while my grandfather moved it. I can tell you how to tighten them up since i have a bmr bar with the adjuster in the middle, i just used a big cresent wrench.
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From: Norfolk, VA. USA
Car: 86 Trans Am, 88 Formula
Engine: 95LT4, 305TPI
Transmission: T56, T5
Which bar do you have?
I have a Lakewood and a BMR.
Lakewood has the adjustment on one of the endlinks, so it needs to off of the car to adjust, which I didn't care for so I got the BMR one with the adjustment in the middle.
I just eyeballed mine as well.
this is the lakewood bar.
I have a Lakewood and a BMR.
Lakewood has the adjustment on one of the endlinks, so it needs to off of the car to adjust, which I didn't care for so I got the BMR one with the adjustment in the middle.
I just eyeballed mine as well.
this is the lakewood bar.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
I have an "unbalanced engineering" one. Its close to the one you posted zepher. The middle looks like that, but has "aurora"? swivel ends.
I can tighten the bottom one that you pictured. I can't get to the top end that mounts to the body of the car.
Car is pulling to the right. Do I need to make it longer or shorter?
I can tighten the bottom one that you pictured. I can't get to the top end that mounts to the body of the car.
Car is pulling to the right. Do I need to make it longer or shorter?
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
The panhard rod length shouldn't make the car track one way or the other. It only affects the side-side position of the rear.....the LCA's are what control the car's thrust angle.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 659
Likes: 10
From: Clifton, NJ
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-5... in need of slight rebuild
I have a Spohn panhard bar and I found it kind of annoying to tighten the top rod end too. If I remember all I did was was finger tighten the jam nut and then twisted the bar as tight as I could by hand. I kept checking on it for a while but I think a large open end wrench may fit. I guess you can take out that end and then tighten it. I e-mailed Spohn on the topic and he said that a pair of water pump pliers would work, I assumed he was talking about what I call channel lock pliers.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 278
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From: Northern NV
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Yes Channel Locks will work I used them on my BMR adj. rod end bar. I would've liked a little more room though it is a pain to drop the right compared to the left.
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