Aluminum Floor
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
From: Crestline,OH
Car: 1987 Formula 350
Engine: 6.0 boost and smak
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 9bolt 3.27
Aluminum Floor
Has anyone installed a Roll cage in their car and proceded to remove the floor pans for aluminum, I am trying to loose big pounds here...
- k-mem
- lower control arms
- dash
- plastic interior
- cargo carpet
+ 10 pt cage
+ aluminum dash
=hopefully floor too=
moving batt to rear
moving NOS to trany tunnel in rear seat area
i will just tell you, the goal for the car is 12 flat without juice
and dip into 10. with the smack
the hard part is keeping it very very drive, i mean I want to be able to drive to Cali, or cruz some local spots, with no prob.
weight seems to be the next logical step, power i can handle, that is the easy part.
OPINIONS ARE HIGHLY WANTED,
- k-mem
- lower control arms
- dash
- plastic interior
- cargo carpet
+ 10 pt cage
+ aluminum dash
=hopefully floor too=
moving batt to rear
moving NOS to trany tunnel in rear seat area
i will just tell you, the goal for the car is 12 flat without juice
and dip into 10. with the smack
the hard part is keeping it very very drive, i mean I want to be able to drive to Cali, or cruz some local spots, with no prob.
weight seems to be the next logical step, power i can handle, that is the easy part.
OPINIONS ARE HIGHLY WANTED,
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,641
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
i don't see why in the world you'd bother, you should be able to run mid 11's on engine with a full interior on a stock k-member and stock a-arms. The floor isn't really extremely heavy, the sheet metal on our cars is pretty thin. if your just trying to shave a few pounds, i'd look elsewhere, maybe a lexan hatch & windows, fiberglass doors, pulling off the bumper, going to manual steering. messing with the floor seems like a waste of time to me, it's as much of a structural element as the roof...until you get the cage welded in, don't dick with it at all.
your talking about shedding "big pounds" but the only thing you listed thats very much of an improvement is the k-member...you failed to even mention tubular a-arms, i don't really see the necessity of adding a 10pt cage, i'd think a 6pt bar would be fine, if you wanna lose more weight off the front, swap to aluminum heads, fiberglass hood, manual brakes, etc...
your talking about shedding "big pounds" but the only thing you listed thats very much of an improvement is the k-member...you failed to even mention tubular a-arms, i don't really see the necessity of adding a 10pt cage, i'd think a 6pt bar would be fine, if you wanna lose more weight off the front, swap to aluminum heads, fiberglass hood, manual brakes, etc...
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 4
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
not to mention... this is a unibody car.
the floor IS the car... its a structual member.... you cant just lay sheet alum in its place.
rather then make the car a uncomfortable to drive "race car" thats slow, id just modify the motor to make more power. then you can keep your interior, radio, ac, ect.... and run 11s NA...
the floor IS the car... its a structual member.... you cant just lay sheet alum in its place.
rather then make the car a uncomfortable to drive "race car" thats slow, id just modify the motor to make more power. then you can keep your interior, radio, ac, ect.... and run 11s NA...
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