Possible damage b/c of worn brakes
Possible damage b/c of worn brakes
This is probably the saddest fact and i am ashamed of it but my brakes have been squeeling for about 4-6 weeks... maybe slightly longer. I'm looking to replace them next week and i've already looked at the rotors and they are worn. I think I'm just gonna put one some new ones along with the pads. I'm gonna pick up some Raybesto Brute Stop pads and whatever Pepboys has to offer for rotors but the real question is what kinda damage am i facing on the caliper. I've been reading around on this message board and am worried about they the calipers themselves might be damaged. If they are, what would probably be wrong and how expensive is the repair going to be with them? I know this is all based on no real facts but if you can offer suggestions so i know what to look for i'd appreciate it.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,593
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From: out of my mind; be back in 5 minutes....
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
The calipers themselves shouldn't be damaged at all. The backing plates of the pads have been riding on the rotor, causing the squealing.
Replacement calipers aren't very expensive anyways - should be under $20 with the core return.
Pete
Replacement calipers aren't very expensive anyways - should be under $20 with the core return.
Pete
yeah just the rotors will have nice grooves in them from the wore out pads. new pads and rotors will mostly likely be all u need, the hardest part in just clamping the calipers pistons back in to let the new pads / calipers slip over the rotors.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
Psshhht! The front discs are probably the easiet thing you'll ever do on your car. The calipers are pretty simple devices and it's pretty hard to damage them. They're cheap to replace as Petes 84Z28 said. It's a good idea to get some reman'd ones too because the old ones will be full of junk and it's worth the cash to replace them rather than cleaning and resealing the ones you have. Look into getting new bearings too.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
I can almost guarantee that your calipers are fine and if they are leaking fluid chances are they were before your pads even went metal to metal. If your hearing a grinding noise while braking then you've definatly gone metal to metal which means new rotors and pads. If you want to replace the calipers just for piece of mind then go right ahead they are fairly cheap and most places will even give you a life time warante on them. The only advice I can give you is to stay away from PEP BOYS!! Go with AutoZone or Kragen. And make sure you have a buddy close by to help you bleed those calipers.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I got a pair of remanufactured calipers from Napa for $30 with the core return. Lifetime warranty to boot.
Make sure you set the wheels bearings up correctly, especially with new bearings. A Haynes or Chilton manual should be able to tell you how to do this. I do it by feel, based on experience, but that's hard if you're new at it.
Make sure you set the wheels bearings up correctly, especially with new bearings. A Haynes or Chilton manual should be able to tell you how to do this. I do it by feel, based on experience, but that's hard if you're new at it.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
A large 'C' clamp works well for pushing the calipers in. I've also used a large pair of Channelocks....... On my Camaro, I've opened the bleeders on the calipers and let them bleed themselves. (Lid must be off the master cylinder when doing anything but a manual bleed).
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I use the C-clamp method too. Make sure you have it centered or it can **** the piston in the bore as it slides in and tear up the seal. It's really a simple procedure once you're used to it.
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