Okay...here's something else. Now taht I thought of removing my stock prop valve, I realized I'll lose the brake warning switch which probably isn't good to lose. Is there a way to "gut" the stock proportioning valve? I don't know the part number for a disc prop valve, and I'm scared of the price. Will an inline adjustable valve do the trick? Wouldn't disc brakes need MORE pressure though than drum brakes since the wheel cylinders are so small compared to the calipers?

 

I guess I'll reply since no one else has yet.

Many people on this board with disc/disc have gutted their stock prop valve and swear by it, despite all the bad implications voiced by other members. Try a search uder "prop valve" and see.

There is still debate over the difference between a disc prop valve compared to drum prop valve. Many say that there is a difference, but GM mistakenly installed drum valves on disc/disc setups. So alot went ahead and bought what should have been the correct prop valve for a disc/disc setup and ended up with NO change in braking performance.

Yes its true that you'll lose your brake light. But, trust me when I say that you certainly don't need a light to tell you that your brakes arent functioning like they should. Any loss of pressure and you will know.

The adjustable prop valve is the best way to go for brake bias tuning. As you brake the weight of the car shifts forward, unloading weight from the rear tires. So the stock setup works best with predicatble stock weight transfer. But, as you add chassis/suspension modification that decreases weight transfer, you see a decrease in the amount of weight unloaded from the rear. So, you can bias your brakes so that the rears receive more pressure resulting in more balanced braking.

What is a brake rotor but a sink for turning kinetic energy of motion into heat (i.e. stopping). Think how much heat your front rotors could absorb doing 70% of the work compared to doing only 60% of the work. When you bias your brakes more toward the rear, this is what you are doing.

But, in a stock chassis, you'd lock up your rear faster if you did this.

At low pressures, drum brakes are more effective at stopping compared to disc. The difference comes in at higher pressures, where disc brakes really shine. The inherent mechanism of action of drum brakes causes them to lock up faster than disc.

 

While that all makes sense, my uncle brought up a pretty valid point saying that if I ever get into a serious enough accident (whether I caused it or not) and they decide to look over my car...if they see that I altered the braking system in anyway (i.e. removed stock valve/warning light) that I'd get in trouble for it no matter what, and that insurance wouldn't cover it. Thus, he won't help me do something like this..