rear shocks
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
rear shocks
Just sheared a rear shock... what are some good options, cornering is most important to me, I only drag once a year, I did a search, not helpful. Thanks
Also where is the top nut located?
Also where is the top nut located?
Last edited by Shribe; Mar 11, 2005 at 05:56 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: michigan
Car: 85 z28
Engine: 327
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: ford 9in 4:56 to 1
top nut- pull carpet up right behind rear seat backs there will be a piece of foam they are under foam
shocks I run kyb gr2 on rear seam to be good on street w/ occasional track apperance
shocks I run kyb gr2 on rear seam to be good on street w/ occasional track apperance
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 91 Firebird, white
Engine: L03 :(
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen, 3.23
Fold down the rear seat and pull up the carpeting. You'll see a little foam pad, pull it out to expose the nut.
You probably won't like me saying this but if you're gonna replace one shock, might as well replace them all.
Seriously, treat yourself, your old shocks are probably worn to hell anyway, so you'll notice a HUGE difference with new shocks/struts in cornering. My old shocks were so bad that I could easily pump them with minimal effort (and I'm no bodybuilder). The new ones coupled with WS6 sway bars made a world of a difference in handling.
I got an entire set of Tokico HP for $250 on eBay, brand new. They are an EXCELLENT set of shocks, I couldn't be more happy. Better than the KYBs so I've heard. If you want more, you can always fork over for Koni and Bilstein...but be prepared to spend over twice that amount.
You probably won't like me saying this but if you're gonna replace one shock, might as well replace them all.
Seriously, treat yourself, your old shocks are probably worn to hell anyway, so you'll notice a HUGE difference with new shocks/struts in cornering. My old shocks were so bad that I could easily pump them with minimal effort (and I'm no bodybuilder). The new ones coupled with WS6 sway bars made a world of a difference in handling.
I got an entire set of Tokico HP for $250 on eBay, brand new. They are an EXCELLENT set of shocks, I couldn't be more happy. Better than the KYBs so I've heard. If you want more, you can always fork over for Koni and Bilstein...but be prepared to spend over twice that amount.
Last edited by JungleMan; Mar 11, 2005 at 06:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 233
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From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
thanks, i found the nut right where you said, they are monroe sensitracs, i wonder if they are lifetime warranty, i compressed the shock by hand with no problem! How hard are the fronts to put on? It really makes sense to do them all at once if the rears were that bad. It is an IROC so do I already have the good sway bars?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: EC, WI
Car: 1988 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
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Posts: 6,577
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Koni and Bilstein are the best by far.
If you have the money to do them on all four corners, I would do it. Fronts are pretty easy, if you are just changing the strut, and not messing with the spring.
If you have the money to do them on all four corners, I would do it. Fronts are pretty easy, if you are just changing the strut, and not messing with the spring.
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 361
Likes: 1
From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 91 Firebird, white
Engine: L03 :(
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen, 3.23
Better than the ones on my base Firebird but not as good as the WS6/1LE units. Find a junkyard or eBay and see what's for sale, I got both of mine for less than $100, plus some for bushings and endlinks.
Front shocks are a little harder than rears but not too bad. I think this is a general idea, been a while since I did it though:
- jack up the car (duh)
- remove the wheel
- put a jack under the LCA and jack it up just enough to support it, as there will be a good bit of spring pressure applied once you unbolt the strut. VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO THIS.
- remove the brake caliper, find some sort of wire to hang it with so that it isn't hanging by the brake hose.
- unbolt the strut from the mount
- pop the hood and look for the little strut things on the sides (you can't miss them), remove the covers and the unbolt them
- remove the shock
Basically reverse the process from there.
Front shocks are a little harder than rears but not too bad. I think this is a general idea, been a while since I did it though:
- jack up the car (duh)
- remove the wheel
- put a jack under the LCA and jack it up just enough to support it, as there will be a good bit of spring pressure applied once you unbolt the strut. VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DO THIS.
- remove the brake caliper, find some sort of wire to hang it with so that it isn't hanging by the brake hose.
- unbolt the strut from the mount
- pop the hood and look for the little strut things on the sides (you can't miss them), remove the covers and the unbolt them
- remove the shock
Basically reverse the process from there.
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