Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Steering wheel has play

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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
My1986IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Eastern Georgia
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (used to be Carb)
Transmission: 700R4
Steering wheel has play

My 1986 IROC-Z is all stock so having some steering wheel play shouldn't be to uncommon I am sure. What components cause the extra play in the wheel? What components should I consider replacing and any suggestions to make it nice and tight like it should be. I do not race the car and so far everything is still relatively stock. I do not need a million dollar front suspension package so please keep this in mind. Thanks for all the great advice in advance.
Tony

Last edited by My1986IROC-Z; Apr 17, 2005 at 06:19 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 09:47 PM
  #2  
Tobias05's Avatar
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From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
how many miles?

some koni or kyb shocks/struts and eibach springs with some good tires will help w/ the handling department leaps and bounds.

crawl under the car and look for worn or loose steering components. check your sway bar end link bushings. I just replaced mine w/ polyurethane ones (20$) and noticed a jump in handling.

subframe connectors do wonders, highly recommended!

look into a strut tower brace, for me the EDL-5227 would work and sells for 130ish@summit and the likes.

The gear box and rag joints in the steering column assembly tend to wear out over time, I believe you can pick up a rag joint at autozone and theres a thread about tightening up the gear box, search for that one.

check out spohn's website, theres a load of good parts over there.

you definately want to replace worn out parts before you spend money on the aftermarket add-ons. I'm riding around on 191 thousand mile old springs, and it sucks after long periods. my spohn subframes just magnify the need for new shocks/struts/ and springs, very harsh at times given bumpy roads or potholes.

these are just some basics, I'm sure some suspension guru's will chime in soon.

Brandon

...edit for spelling

Last edited by Tobias05; Apr 17, 2005 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2005 | 02:32 PM
  #3  
My1986IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Eastern Georgia
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (used to be Carb)
Transmission: 700R4
I have recently replaced the Shocks, struts and all 4 springs. these components are fine. My real concern is the steering wheel play. I can turn the wheel about 1-2" to the right or left before I get any response from the wheels. Maybe this will help define what the cause maybe. thanks for the further guidance all you 3rd gen experts, I am the padawan learner.
Tony
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 10:59 AM
  #4  
who5252's Avatar
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Correct me if I am wrong, but won't ball joints correct this if they are worn out?
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Old Apr 21, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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naf
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
1) Check your tilt column for looseness-does it have play up and down? If so, there's a tech article here on tightening it.
2) Put the front end on jackstands. Turn the wheel (get a helper or turn it yourself at the shaft going into the steering box). As you turn it through a few inches of play identify where the movement stops. For example: if your shaft is turning but the pitman arm out of the box isn't, you'll need to take play out of the box. If your pitman arm moves but the centerlink (aka drag link) doesn't, the centerlink is worn and needs to be replaced. Follow this all the way to the wheels...shaft, ragjoint, box, pitman arm, centerlink, tie-rod ends, ball joints. You may find that more than one component is worn.
3) A less common, but potential problem is weakening, and sometimes cracking, of the frame rail that the steering gear is mounted to. A wonderbar will prevent this but not fix it. If you see flexing here, you'll probably want to take it to a shop to get a welder to make repairs.
4) Don't forget an alignment after replacing anything past the pitman arm.
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 06:55 AM
  #6  
My1986IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: Eastern Georgia
Car: 1986 Iroc-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (used to be Carb)
Transmission: 700R4
naf - you are the bomb! I am taking my car into the autocraft center on fort gordon today and going to do this entire procedure to check it out. I will ost what I think I find. Great advice. Thanks again all
Tony
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Old May 17, 2005 | 08:39 PM
  #7  
91_5.7_TPI's Avatar
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Hey, ya know when you do a search, it does away with asking for the information you need. Mine has play similar to that described. All this has helped me. Thanks.
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