Any pics of the car with the rears in now. Also are those welded on or do they just sit in the little cup. By the way awsome job.

Why do the rear springs look so old and the new ones nice and red?

 

The pic I posted above (green IROC) has both front and rear examples in this thread installed and set at full lock down. Since the picture was taken I've swapped the front springs from 900# linear rate Eibach spring to a 775# linear rate Eibach spring, but the new front spring is still 8" tall (and I didnt have to drop the a-arm to swap the springs). I also raised the front around 1/2 inch to give more ground clearance. The 10" tall rear spring didnt quite give me the stance I wanted at full lock down, at this point I would have to either remove the isolators, or remove the weight jack to get any lower. I'm fine with this setup for now so its all gonna stay this way, but for those of you looking to slam the rear more than I did in that pic of my IROC, definately go with 9" tall rear springs.

Its my fault the rear spring looks like that, I forgot to paint it when I got it. The front springs are powdercoated from Eibach. The dirtyness look is actual some minor surface rust on the spring. Soon as I get some free time I'm gonna clean em up.

There is a weld in version of these weight jacks but because I cant weld for beans, I went with the non weld in setup. So both front and rear just sit between the chassis and bottom of the spring.

 

My springs look like that too, but since I bought them used, I was kinda skeptical that I got the right part. Glad to see it's a factory "feature".

I haven't put mine in yet though, waiting to do it all at once.

Any chance you could get a pic of the GC rear perch tool? My used ones didn't have it. I think I know what it should look like so I can make one, I just want to make sure I'm not going at it the wrong way.

 

Nape -- i think the rear adjuster is just a standard coil over wrench. You can probably pick one up anywhere for under $20.

Crazy -- You do realise that the G-C instructions have the weight jack located on the body side, not sitting below the spring.

 

The rears wouldnt even work in that direction, the bottom of the spring is tapered.

 

Hmmm, well I never got any instructions with these things. It was pretty much trial and error for me. I'm pretty sure I've installed them properly. With the front Weight Jack on the bottom you are able to adjust the ride height with a 1/2 inch drive socket through the hole in the middle of the lower control arm, while the suspension is loaded. If the Weight Jack unit were installed on top of the spring, up into the K-member pocket, I dont know how you would adjust it. I think there may be differences between the weld in and non weld in versions because I've heard the weld in versions are adjusted from the top (since you cut through the k-member). This way I've installed them here for the non weld in versions seems to be working great. I know the rears are installed properly because there was only one way they fit, and that was on the bottom.

Yeah the rear adjuster is a standard coilover wrench, I'll get a pic for you nape. I actually haven't had much success using that tool to adjust the rears, I've found it 10x easier to unload the rear suspension and adjust it. Mainly because the rear weight jack units have hex key locks to prevent them from moving around, its a PITA to turn those hex locks while everything is installed and the suspension is loaded.

 

Yea; I got my jacks from GC about 2 weeks ago. The car is not ready for them yet (powdercoating the K-member), but they didn't come with any instructions either. I was mocking things up and the only way they could be adjusted after installing them would be with the jack seated on the K-member and the spring install between the jack and the A-arm with the pig tail indexed to the A-arm. The adjusting screw would point down, and an extension would be used to make adjustments from below. I hope this helps, or if I'm wrong, let me know. Thanks!

 

Hmmm I installed mine the other way around with the pigtail end of the spring indexed to the K-member pocket. After thinking about it and looking at my Weight Jacks again, its possible that it could be installed either way and still be adjusted. The top of the stud does have a hole that accepts a 1/2 inch drive (no socket) and the bottom has a bolt that you can turn with a socket. So its adjustable from either end, hmmm.

I double checked my Manuals as far as indexing the spring and it does say the top of the spring is coiled flat and the bottom is coiled helical, and it should be indexed on the helical end against the marking on the lower control arm, not the k-member pocket. So considering that, it sounds like I do have them installed upsidedown. So now if that is the case, I'm wondering how you would measure the gap in the Weight Jack to ensure they are set evenly? They would be up in the K-member pocket, hiden from view. Weird. I'm also wondering if it even matters. I'm gonna call Ground Control and ask them whats up.

 

Ok, I talked to Ground Control and they said it was designed to be installed on the top of the spring, between the k-member pocket and the spring. But he also said it could be run either way, it just wasnt designed to be run on the bottom of the spring. So I do have them installed upside down in this thread here. Now I feel like a real dumbass for starting this thread to try and help share some info, and installing them upside down!! (spreading mis-information!)



Well, if anyone does happen to decide to run them on the bottom of the spring I know its safe because its been like that for over a year on my 91Z28 with no issues, 8 months of that daily driven.

But now that I know they were designed to be run on top, I'm gonna have to re-install them on both my cars. Kinda sucks now too because I dont think you'd be able to swap springs w/o dropping the K-member if the Weight Jack was on the top. The spring needed all the room possible to come out so it was perfect that the Weight Jack installed on the bottom came out first. Now with the Weight Jacks on top the spring gotta come out first so I dunno. And now I'm not gonna be able to measure the gap between the plates to make sure both left and right are the same height. No hex locks on the front, that sucks.

 

Since it seems that no one has instructions, I'll takes some digital pictures of mine.

Granted they are only 1 sheet with a diagram, but some people might find it usefull.

Crazy,

This information is good to have here, I just thought that I would point that out for your sake. Also with them on installed on the top of the spring, you can still use a 1/2" extension to adjust them with the supsension loaded, I'm not sure how you were adjusting them, other than by using the bolt on the the upper plate. That bolt is what holds the weight jack screw to the plate. The actualy peice to adjust it, is the female 1/2" square drive on the bottom end of the screw.

 

Hey; don't feel bad, that's why we have these boards. It's a group effort! As far as the height issue, one why is to measure the top of the wheel well lip from the ground with the car on a level surface, the other method would be to scale the car for cross weighting like the jacks were intended, but who has a scale set?

 

Here are the intructions that come with the kit.

 

Thanks for correcting me guys, I went back through all my posts and corrected any info regarding installing them wrong. I'd rather feel like a dumbass than possibly cause someone problems by reading my mis-information.

 

Saving to UserCP to read later....

 

I know it has been a while for this post but I am considering getting the weight jacks now and wondered if you could repost the image you put up or send me a copy? Much appreciated if you could.

 

It would be useful if it was still in the thread…

 

I'll have to find it. Actualy, i think that server is still online at home, I'll have to see what IP or domain it is on. I may not have time tonight, but I'll get it online soon.

 

Did anyone save a copy of the instructions that Dewey posted? If so could you please email it over to me:
drabicki2@comcast.net

Thanks!
- Joel

 

X2 need a little help here...

 

Does anyone have the pictures that go with the original posts??? I'm in desparate need of help getting my setup picked out and ordered, so anyone with experience or photos of their own setups that could chime in would help. Thanks in advance....

 

+1

 

Why are people looking for pics, and of what? They are very self-explanatory just looking at them.

Fronts can only go in 1 way & still reach the adjustments & the rears can only go in 1 way period.

 

Just got mine today.

 

9.5in 900lbs fronts
9in 175lbs rears.

 

Gona look great with those in mat. Deff. need to see some pic's locked down.

 

I think I've lost the stock image with the sound of the car now. I was thinking about lowering it and adding Yearone snowflake rims with the grey background. I saw a pic of another formula with them and thought they looked killer.

 

Really?

 

Yes, really.

Front adjusters on the bottom? Can't get the socket extension shaft into the adjuster, unless someone is dumb enough to put it upside down, have the adjuster shaft sticking out the bottom of the a-arm & then risk dragging it on stuff & bend it.

Rears can only go on the bottom. Not possible to fit in the top. I know, because I have some. Bought them used. No instructions & never questioned their fit upon install.

If you have them, you know.

As for CrazyHawaiian...What can I say? He installed his by the most "easy" way up front, but it should have been obvious. So ONE guy here did it wrong. Does that make it not-so-obvious? No.

 

I see they are finally shipping the driver side rear one with a notch in it now. Nice. I still question whether that notch is big enough. Let us know.

 

What size spanner wrench do I need for the rear? How do I go about measuing for one?

 

You can buy a spanner wrench from GC, if you can't find one somewhere that fits.

 

GC recommends taking the weight off the spring and spinning by hand. That worked well for me.

 

Talked with GC today and thats exactly what they recommend. Thanks!

Got the rears installed for now. The notch is perfect. It seats down flush. The other side though goes all the way through but its on a slight angle because of the spring. But anywho, its on the ground now .75 in lower then the back and looks nice. With bone stock WS6 springs and Isolators I was at 28.25 inches. I'm at a nice 27.5 now. Still high for most peoples standards but i think it looks good. Fronts at 28 and will be going to 27 shortly.

 

Got the fronts installed with zero effort. Its so NICE being able to adjust the front now. Car feels great also. At zero lift in front it was bottomed out at 26 inches. That was me using a isolator on top as well.

 

bump for some pictures.

 

Sounds like you kinda needed shorter springs to allow the adjusters to actually be adjusted. If the height results work for you then great, except that it can't go any lower without buying new springs which is part of the purpose behind weight jacks in the first place.

 

That may be limited by your bump stops. Can you confirm?

 

The bumpstops won't affect the adjustment of the weight jacks. If the jacks are adjusted below the height of the bumpstops, then the ride height could be held up higher.

 

Exactly my point.

The car will not lower any further if you are on the bump stops. Case in point. With the original 8" springs that GC supplies, half of the adjustment does absolutely nothing on my setup since the car is sitting on the bump stops. This is with strut tube mounted bump stops. I would imagine the OEM a-arm mounted bump stops would allow even less lowering. That may be why Mkos can only get down to 26". With my strut tube mounted bump stops I am able to get down to 24" by the time the bump stop is fully engaged. Without the bump stop it would go much lower yet. There is no way26" is the lowest his car will go with the typical 8" spring unless its sitting on the bump stops. I will be using 9.5" springs this time to get me in the middle of the adjustment range for my ride height (25.5").

So the question to Mkos again is:

at 26" are you on your bump stops?
what length springs did GC supply?

 

Nevermind. I see that Mkos already mentioned his fronts are 9.5" springs. I still say they should got a good bit lower than 26". Will await him to check his bump stops.

 

BUMP for mkos.

any updates?

 

Sorry guys. I havent been on here a a few months. Only on the LSX threads. With it zero'ed out I am about 1/2in above my stops on my UMI arms.

 

So what length springs are people using to get below 26"?? I need to get these, but want to order once

 

Bump

 

I have 25.5" front & 26.5" rear.

Front adjusters are pretty much bottomed out on 9.5"/600lb springs. To go lower it would require a shorter spring & stiffer to control bottoming out.
Rear could be adjusted lower (10"/180lb springs) , but I like the stance plus my 315s don't have much room if I went lower.

 

Bump again

sounds like i need :

8.5in 700lbs fronts??
8in 175lbs rears. ??

 

IMHO? Great choices but depending on your ride height, I would think about the spring height some. I can peek at my rears to see just how much adjustment I have left, if you would like me too.

My fronts are lighter rate & taller but I wish higher rate & shorter.
My rears are taller & essentially the same rate (180). I wouldn't mind a higher rate but about the same height (10") if I were to go any lower.

 

That would be awesome. ReasonI'm thinking about those heights is becasue i really only want to raise my car like a half inch in front. Do you think spacers would be better than weight jacks?

Here is where i'm at currently:

 

I would love to have the ability to go down to the bump stops, and raise it one inch from that above hieght

 

Then you're going to need a much stiffer spring than 700lb.