Anyone done 335's in the back of a Camaro without it being ugly looking or sticking out? please post pics if you have any.

Any adjustments to body must be made?

Whats the max width tires that you can fit in Camaro without doing any work to body?

 

335's??? Those are friggen massive! What's wrong with 225? Even those are pretty sweet.

 

Nothing wrong with 225's

I am planning to start a Camaro project to be road racing car with particular style. Rareley I see a good 3rd gen Camaro being tuned both ways. So far KrazyHawaian done a pretty good job but I plan to do something no one has ever done yet to a 3rd gen

 

335 are really big.. needs lots of wheel well work to space it in right. wider fenders would help too which is what i want to do

315's can be fit well with minor massaging with correct backspaceing

kandied91z fit 295 18's in the back without too much difficulty. i actually think it fit without any mods

 

295's 18 sounds good, is there any pics?

 

OK well I have posted these pics before, but I will show them here too.

It is pics of my 91 with a normal standard width moser 12 bolt, 2" spacers and 17x11" ZR1s.

I am gonna run 315s when the car is done, but for now i have 335s as the car is being built. (Used tires from a Viper, bought super cheap here on TGO)

Well here they are. Visit my site if you wanna see what i dod to make more room.

Oh and the first pic is just funny. It is the 12 bolt with tires. You can really get an idea of how much tire there is on these things.

 

And now here is my second pic that shows the wheel as most people would see them as they walk by.

 

And finally this one shows how the can realy look huge. (note no GFX on yet)

 

Hey man thanks for the info. Looks like you've done a lot of work yourself. It says on a site you been doing it for 3 years? Financial hold or just free time? BTW I like how you take your comments on the stock parts I feel the same way. It's a great car that came with bad package for tuning.

 

I am in colledge so The reason it has taken almost 3 years is because 80% of the time I am away at school and not able to make $. But now I am a sophmore and Northeastern has a progem that lets you get a job for in your major's field for every other 2 semesters. So that is were I am right now. I am a mechanical engineeing major. I have no bills, and I live at home. And since the car is off the road, I put 100% of what I make into the car. 90% of it has got done/bought in the last 6 months.

Thanks for checking out my site.

 

I hear that. I am a junior at penn state and most of the work done to my car was done in high school when I could pay the bills.

 

Yeah in school it is def hard to build cars. I go for free and it is still hard to build the car.

I am starting classes again in January, so I pretty much have till then to finish, or else this car will have to wait another cople semesters and I am just not gonna let that happen. So I might be able to fire her up by mid october.

Quick side Q...you guys think 530 shipped for used coated 2210s is a good deal? I saw pics and they realy look like good condition.


As for this thread..haha......One of the best ways to get these massive (335s) to tuck might be just to get a wide body panel (Danko). Pretty cheap too, 275 for the front and back. I am thinkin about getting it and just putting on the back. Maybe the front, but I dunno. I am skeptical about putting fiberglass on my car though. Here in Boston it goes from very cold to very hot, I know F/G does'nt like that.

I'm done blabbing.......

 

What happens? Does it take different shape? Because I'm all the way in Ontario and here it goes from very humid hot to very dry cold. I'm planing to do as much weight reduction on the car as possible so more than half of the car either going to be fiberglass or carbonfiber.

Man you know what pisses me off, money, how they can kill great ideas if you don't have them.

 

Fiberglass expands and contracts a LOT more than metal. Make sure you remember this, its not just a little bit, it is significant. It will be fine for a while. New paint can stretch more, but once it really settles in problems will arise. "spider cracks" is how it starts off. I am sure you can imagine putting mud on your arm, letting it dry and then moving the skin under it around a bit. You will see the mud crack and then eventualy fall off. The mud is the paint and your arm is the fiberglass.

On another note, you mentioned carbon fiber. This is a very good alternative, but its cost if rediculouse. Now if you can afford it and jump over that hurdle, then you gotta jump over the HUGE hurdle of finding someone who makes CF parts for our cars. All I can say about that is good luck, you are gonna need it. (finding CF parts)

I really wanna put wide body panels on, but am affraid of the need to repaint. I do not plan on driving my car in the winter, and my family is moving soon, so I will have a heated garadge soon (maybe). If it is not I will make it heated if I go this route and keep the car around 50 or so all the time in the winter, mabybe 60 depending on how much propane I will go thogh.....

Oh well hope this last rant helped a little.

By the way, there are a ton of places you can save weight, that do not involve changing anything to CF.

-Dennis

 

How much weight do you think 3rd gen can loose?

 

If done right. Yu can get them right down there by 3000 lbs. If you pull some tricks I have herd guys lower, but for all intensive purposes, I would round the # to about 3000. I plan to wiegh my car after it is done. Maybe in October.

 

Here are 295x35R18 tires. I worked with A group wheels, to test fit and get the right back spacing. I just had to make some minor adjustments to the wheel well seam in order to have enough clearance for autocrossing. For regular road driving I did not even have to make adjustments.

 

another pic

 

Last one

 

What is the stock weight for 1992 TPI?


DAVECS1
Nice looking setup I like it a lot. So what you saying is there was no body adjustment for 295's? it goes right on it or did you had to insert that weird metal looking thing before the wheel?

 

I am not sure what you mean by weird metal looking object. I have lower control arm brackets welded to my axle for better rear end geometry and I also have 78 trans am replica exhaust tips that I made out of 2 1/2" stainless pipe.

As for modifications, I did not have to change anything until I started autocrossing. What I did have to tweek in order to race was the seam that is formed between the unibody and wheel well, in the front of the wheel well area. I used a hammer to bend the seam back, and everything was fine.

 

Ive got 285/18's right now with plenty of room to fit a 295 (did no mods whatsoever)

 

Camaroguy18...Your car looks very good with your set up.


I think the main thing to remmeber is that if you plan on running crazy tires like these 335s, just make sure you have a motor and pipes to back up the look.

Camaroguy18, I personally think your car is a perfect execution of that look.

Kandied, Same with you.

You guys both have 1/2 show car, 1/2 street car kinda cars.

I am making a 1/2 prostreet, 1/2 street car kinda thing. So as you can imagine I WANT my tires to look absolutly massive. To get them to tuck more I plan on buying the Danko wide body panles. This is for a couple reasons.

1. To eat up the rest of the tire.

2. This is kinda strange reason but the mounting flange for my struts that hold up my lambo doors dig into the fenders up front a tinny tinny bit. With the wide panels It will hide the dimple they make + it will be easier to fit the 9.5" 275s. Maybe I can push the tires out a bit further too to gain more room under there.

Just wanted to ramble for a bit, thx.

 

good too see I built it the way I intended people to take it....thanks!....though if I wasnt a med student, I'd get a second and beef the hell out of the tires and engine lol

 

How much did you pay for the paintjob?

 

Omega Red, with a fair bit of cutting and pounding as well as lower control arm modification you might be able to get those 335's tucked. I notched my hotchkis lower control arms, cut the sheet metal from the wheel well (the piece that is rippled for strength, near the coil spring). Since I have a roll cage as do you, we don't need to worry so much about losing that section of metal. With a 1/8" slip on spacer, I am able to run 315's on 17x11 ZR-1's that are nicely tucked with no rubbing! The tightest area for wheel well to tire clearance is roughly 1/2" at the lower/front side of the wheel well. This area could be cut more to accomodate your 335's as well as running a slightly thicker spacer, 1/4". For me it was alot of trial and error, and making up new words,
When I get time I will start a new thread and post pics and see what ya guys think. My friends think it looks SICK!!!!

 

Nice, can't wait to see. I am thinkin about getting the Danko wide body panels. They widen the rear of the body about 1.5" I think I will be able to leave the wheels how they are now and just attach the panels before the car gets painted. I have fiberglass, but if I heat my garadge, then I think I should be OK.

Nothin' beats seeing HUGE tires under any car. makes the car look all buisness.

 

I’m assuming inward to clear the wheel wells/tires? Probably a better way of doing this is to get some LCA’s with rod ends and put both spacer sleeves on the outside side of the rod end, so the ends are all the way against the inside side of the pockets, that will probably give you an extra ¾” clearance in there

 

I got 17x10 Boyd Coddington wheels with 315-35-17's with no mods what so ever. It's all in the back spacing.....I'll post some pic's later.....

 

You shouldn't need any mods for 10" wheels. Unless your car has been bumped and things are not where they go. Or if you are running larger than 10". I had to cuz I am running 11" ZR1s.


I do see what you meen, Many people just get the wrong BS. Fill us in on what you got. Then when I have a ton of $ I will look into getting what you got maybe

 

No damage to the rear... (i hope) I noticed that i could have gone bigger after I got them on the car. All I needed for the rear was 6" of backspacing, I ended up with 5.75. Still plenty of room. It's to bad the Boyd wheel that I got only comes 10" wide

 

Here ya go:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ighlight=17x12

17x12 w/ 6.5" backspacing and 335's. The pics shown are on stock RS springs, so there is alot of room. When I ordered my wheels I didnt know how much room I would have because I planned to really lower the suspension. So I went with kinda mild widths and whatnot to start out with. I wanted to run 335's too, but I wanted to do it with the K1 Evo II kit, so I figgured I would be ordering another set of wheels later. These ones were going to be my daily driver wheels. But then K1 stopped making the kit and my plan went to hell. I think with the right backspace and really rolling the rear lip good (instead of just tucking that metal tab, actually push the lip out) I think 335's would tuck, but you wouldnt be able to slam the car because the edges of the tires would still contact the fender when the suspension loads. I think 315's or even 295's on a 11 or 10 are more streetable with really lowered suspension. I'm running 275's on a 9.5 with alot of room to spare.