Right now I have a built 310. Expecting around 270-300 at wheels (dont slam me on my goals). I will be putting a better set of heads on later, right now I have worked 416 with bigger valves. I am working on getting a turbo kit put together, and I dont know what i'll run, probably 10psi. I would like a suggestion on a rear end that will hold what I will be giving it. I dont have unlimited funds, but I'll buy what I need.

Thanks. Right now I have the stock 10 bolt that came with my 88 Base V6. It has 3.42's in it right now. I plan on getting some drag radials, but mostly it would have big street meats since I will be driving it around town a lot. I would also like POSI. Dont think I have it now, the RPC 'G' code on my sticker is damaged so I cant tell what it has.

What exactly would be replaced? I'm not gotten into the rear end stuff yet, and i've only changed the gear oil and gaskets. Only toyed with getting 3.73's, but never did. So i'm not too knowledgable in the suspension stuff yet.

 

If you have the money to buy a 12bolt moser do that if not biuld the hell out of your 10bolt . The 10 should handle the power you have . If you are like me you will have 350 at the wheels next year or soon after . If you are goinng to run tires with grip it will shorten the 10s life .
If you are getting in to changing the diff,gears and axles it will run you around 1200$ with you doing the labor .Check this out
http:sethirdgen.org/10bolt2.htm

 

thanks 4 the link. With the turbo I plan to put 400+ to wheels. What would consist of "building" the 10 bolt? Just a new ring/pinion, or replacing the entire guts of the pumpkin?

 

my opinion? beef the 10 bolt.

heres how I did mine recently:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=10+bolt


weld the axle tubes
get a girdle
perhaps main cap studs
new bearings/seals where needed (almost everywhere)
ratech solid pinion spacer
reuse your shafts and gears

get a posi, 26 spline.... Or you could upgrade to 28 spline factory axles from a late 3rd gen, or aftermarket ones, then get the 28 spline posi, from a late 3rd gen (after '90), or 4th gen.
I'm a cheapskate, so that's what i'd do...

 

There's no difference between a V6 or a V8 diff except gear ratios. The 10 bolt is weak no matter what you do to it. V6's have broken them on the street and I used a beefed up one with a BBC running low to mid 11's on the track with no problems.

You can do all the upgrades like aftermarket 28 spline axles, solid crush sleeve, welded tubes and solid rear cover with bearing cap supports but the weakest link will always be the tiny ring and pinion.

Upgrading to a direct bolt in 12 bolt or 9" will run you about $2500. Run what you have for now. Have a better performance gear set installed. If you finally break it, then consider if it's worth upgrading to a stronger diff.

 

Do you know if it has a posi carrier . Jack up the rear and spin one tire, if they both go the same way you have a posi .I rebuilt my 10-bolt last year and am wishing I spent the money on a 12-bolt . If you have a posi just slap some 373's on it and have fun till it blows . If you do end up upgrading everything in the 10-bolt look at the LPW girdle cover with bearing caps and braces from jegs .Car sounds cool good luck .

 

not that it should have, but my True track(or any other torsional type) spins opposite directions when you try this method. They only lock down when smacked from the pinion. - I woudn't flock w/ the 10-bolt. You're planning boost, so why put any money into a rear that still be questionable? Get a 12-bolt or a 9inch built for a 3rd gen(torque arm mount) You can get one reasonable enough to not chance snapping an axle and flipping a tire into the wheel well...(not comon, but can/has happened) - even breaking a ring gear, ever done it at speed/rpm? Ever had you rear tires lock at around 100 mph beacuse of it?
- I'm currently running a seriously beefed 10-bolt, but I wouldn't be if I hadn't gotten a serious deal on it. I'm still debating a 9" w/ the new chassis/motor.