If your computer has Paint you can shrink them using it by going into IMAGE, scroll down to STRETCH/SKEW option and editing the size of the pic with the % feature on the Horizontal and vertical. So what I usually do is shrink it like 35-50% on both and make sure you save the file as a JPEG so it's even smaller.

Or if you want you can send me the pic's and I'll do it for ya

 

yep or email them to me and i'll resize. I just can't get over the price of this piece. and have to pay for the stock bracket mounts? wtf

 

People have been waiting at least a couple of years for this thing to be released. We've always heard the "next month, next week, spring time, winter, soon as these mustang parts are designed" excuses. You just happened to order at the right time when he finally started making the production units.

 

So do these things actually exist? I would like to see some pics.

 

I had heard that the mild steel BMRs K-member had been breaking at the welds, The chrome Moly's hadnt'.. I have some sphon stuff.. Steve has been working on our cars for many years, some are just run of the mill fabricators copying others work.. but I think steve should have more peoples respect.. Some of you are upset that he hasn't put out his product, sorry that he hasn't put some crap out for sale as quick as you want, but if you had a reputation wouldn't you want it to be a quality piece taht your trying to sell to the public.. I will be buying one.. Probably a chrome moly one.. But it depends on the weight.. cause isnt' that why your changing it in the first place..

 

email them to: MrDude_1@FastGM.com and i'll shrink the file size while leaving them as large as possible, and post them in this thread....

 

My Spohn K-member should be here in a few hours according to the tracking #. I had placed an order for it last year and had even paid through hawks but ended up canceling and getting a refund due to the next week, next month, 2weeks from now promises that kept coming. It still took about 5 weeks to get it after ordering this go round.

 

sorry for not replying eariler, I was on vacation, Mrdude_1, I'm sending you the pics so you can shrink them, thanks

 

So did you get yours in??

Can you take pictures of it?

 

I got mine just after thanksgiving, and I ordered it in the middle of oct, I just sent Mrdude_the pics, they were too big to post, and he said he would shrink them for me...they should be posted soon

 

cant wait to see em

 

here are his first three pics, fullsize.
photoshop is more efficent at the filesize compression, so i didnt have to make them smaller..... warning.. they're huge, but you can see the detail.

 

heres the last pic he sent:

 

Looks nice. I think I'll go ahead with the K member but keep my lower LCA's I just like the fact that I can put a jack under the LCA if need be where as the whole tubular units looks unsafe to jack a car up. Plus since I am retianing the spring pockets the stock LCA's weigh only like 3more lbs a piece.

 

The Tubular over the stockers only weigh 3lbs. less?

What does the stock K-member weigh over tubular?

 

Yea.. i believe theres a post somewhere where somebody compared everything. I'll try to find it.

 

Finally got mine in today, looks good. As far as weight goes the Spohn unit on my scale weighs 30.8 lbs. I weighed my stock K-Member last year when it was all out of the car and it weighed 38lbs if i remember correctly. So you save all of 7lbs in weight. Personally I bought mine for the added room it creates, My LS1 pan is really close to the stock K-member so this will ease my mind some.........jt

 

If you guys are worried about jacking the car up on these a-arms then you shouldn't even dream about driving them on the street. There can be well over 3000 lb's of force trying to bend the a-arm in half just from the spring.

 

I use my Tubular A-arms as a jacking point, hasnt hurt anything yet. I use a short piece of 2x6 under the a-arm in between the arm and jack that covers both sides of the a-arm to distribute the weight evenly. I cant get a jack under my K-member anyways, car sits too low...........jt

 

I see the post in the aftermarket about the swaybar tabs snapping off the a arms due to force. Has this been addressed?

 

this was a issue on some other a arms (profab and PA racing) mostly because the bolt hole was too small... sure, the bolt can fit in it, but when the arm rotated, it would bind up.....

simple solution to that.... just make the bolt hole bigger... problem solved.




btw, if you're running them, you most likely have them on a car that shouldnt have a front swaybar anyway.

 

heh, i just found the post you were talking about.... i replied to it.

of course, after the first few posts going on about it not being thick enough, heat treatment, material choices, cantilevers, ect...... i couldnt help but to be a smartass when i pointed out the obvious.

 

i placed my order for the spohn k-member on 11/14 and they told me the turn around was about 6 weeks. so in theory i should have mine this next week or so. i hope their right, i hate being screwed around.

 

AJE racing makes nice ones. and they ship within 48 hours.

 

I'll go to bat for Steve (not like he really needs the backing). His products are top shelf and he's a down to earth guy to deal with when there is an issue. I plan on dropping the "grand" to get a pair of A-arms and his K-member. That will complete my ENTIRE suspension and every piece is Spohn.

 

damn, that looks good. I will be interested to see how many people that have ordered them start getting them.

 

I would agree, Steve is a good guy, and he was very helpfull when my LCA's broke. But, Steve is not an engineer. I know a lot of really stand up guys, that doesn't mean I want them designing parts for my car. Looking at that k-member, I would be very hesitant to run it on anything other than a dedicated drag car. Even then, I would make sure to have it UNCOATED, and check it for potetial issues and cracks regularly.

 

then again, in several key areas and ways, that one is alot stronger then the Kmembers ive driven for the last 3 years now..... so im not worried.

 

.

 

all parts break, my buddy has broken spohn parts as well in his 4th gen. Every company has failures, now KagA remember that the best crossmember for autoX is the stock one, since it seems that all the tubular ones fail from talking to local racers

 

.

 

Have you found this post comparing crossmembers?

I'd love to hear info from those who have purchased tubular crossmembers for the street use.

I would like to get one for mine, but I need it to be streetable, as this is where my car spends 99% of it's time.

I'd love to hear from those who are using them and their experiences/ hidden costs, and anything else relating to installation, use and reliability.

Thanks!

 

I will be racing in SCCA races this summer (2007) or next year of 2008. I will also need one that can withstand corners and high braking while in corners. BEASICALLY A ROAD RACE SETUP. My car will HARDLY see the strip. Maybe every once and a while....but not much.

 

I h8--

What class will you be running? I would not run any of them (thus why I don't), you don't save hardley any weight, why chance something as critical as the k-member and a-arms for only 7lbs. Check out the threads about k-members on FRRAX.

 

I will check that out (FRRAX). And for 7lbs.....only when I have the money. I just wanted to know just in case I ever buy one. Also I meant to say SCCA custom. Me and a couple buddies talked with a guy down at Cleveland raceway downtown. He kept telling us about racing in groups and car clubs. So of course we were interested......he said all we needed were our cars (street legal) and helmets and safety harnesses....no roll cage. Then to come down to the track on an open day to talk with him about getting setup....Waiting for this summer to see how we are going to do this. Will update whenever I can. Probably not until May-June. Or whenever D1 comes back or the x-games which are setup at the track.

EDIT: Dewey thanks for that site......big help.

 

DEWEY. Just joined....same name as here.

 

H8--

If you are talking about doing an open-track day, or a HPDE (high-performance drivers ed, basicly a lapping day wht an instructor). I would go with a lightly modified car. The learning curve is so steep, that being in a highly modified car, is just not worth it.

There is a ton of reading on frrax. If you plan to go wheel-wheel racing with the SCCA, then you will need to know what class you plan to run, and modify the car accordingly. Thinks like the k-member, may or may not be legal for the class you intend to run. As you get into race classes that allow for very open modifications, you better bring your check-book. If you are trying to get into racing on a budget, you will want to find a class that allows you to run a relativly cheap car, with limited modifications. If you are JUST starting out, go to auto-x and HPDE's and tighten up the nut behind the wheel. Then start looking at an entry level try racing class, that you can get into cheap. Maybe Spec-Miata, or CMC, or something with a pretty limited set of allowd modifications.

I am sure I'll see you over on FRRAX, there is a ton of great info there, and tons of guy with racing experiance. If you are looking at getting into road-racing, that is the place to go. There really isn't much good info on TGO about it, and most of the posts turn into BS with people who have never driven around a race track.

 

I understand all you just said. Thanks and see you on the flip-side.

P.S. Looking into Auto-X...because I can hit cones and not ruin my car. LMAO.

 

Auto-X is a great place to start. You will learn to see lines, and gauges cornering speed, without the risk and needed equipment of a full track day. Generaly auto-x guys do well on tracks, just because they can visualize the lines, and know how to sense what the car is doing. Really, you will be suprised at how little you really know about driving, once you start doing auto-x. It is rather humbling, but also fun to see the times come down, and you become a better driver.

 

Yeah I think in order for you to get a Drivers License you should have to take an Auto-X run and get a decent time....this way we will have good drivers who know how to handle cars and dont do ****ING 40 AROUND A 65MPH TURN.......DUMBASS PEOPLE. I MEAN DONT THEY REALIZE THAT ROAD WAS MADE TO GO 65MPH AROUND....NOT 65MPH IN THEN 35 OUT...LMAO. I just think its sometimes funny how people dont know what a car can do....I mean....you see the commercial....you see the 100+mph speedo....you REALLY think you have to do 40 around a FREEWAY TURN so you dont spin out or something.....or those people who turn into their driveway and it takes them 5 minutes to get in.....LOL, I HAVE TO GO VERY SLOW SO THIS WAY I DONT RUIN MY TIRES ON MY DRIVEWAYS BUMP.....

I LAUGH AT ALL WHO DRIVE SLOW.....AT LEAST STUPIDLY SLOW.

P.S. I like going for cruises.....AKA.....slow driving rides. But I make turns..at a good speed...I mean why do you think I want to go into Auto-X. LMAO. So I can get around these *******S.

P.S.S. Ahhhh I feel better now.

 

Yeah, the problem for you is you live in Cleveland. I lived there for 5 years when I attended college (CIA, at the CWRU campus), and of the 4 states and numerous cities I've lived in- Cleveland drivers are by far the slowest drivers I've ever seen! Granted, everywhere has something one can gripe about, like here in La, for example- idiots think the left (passing lane) is the slow cruising lane. People in their self rightous attitudes mostly in their hondas slowly merge onto the highway (forcing those in the right lane to stop, because they fail to yield the right of way) and immediately push their way into the left lane, and stay there forcing you to (illegally) pass them on the right just to maintain the speed of traffic, let alone exceed it. It can be frustrating. On the other hand, maybe I am just impatient.

 

LMAO. Had that happen to me last night....I was already on the freeway and those who come on HAVE TO YIELD....yeah so I stayed in my lane (furthest left lane) and this guy almost hits my *** then passes me saying **** YOU.

DID I MISS SOMETHING??? Oh and it was a bunch of drunk kids. I say drunk because when his buddy (rear left passenger) told me **** YOU he was looking at the road....I LAUGHED MY *** OFF...I mean at least look at the car and say it.

 

to continue off topic, everybody should learn in a spec miata, thats where i did. but the straights are just so painful. no fun when you get in a powerstroke f250 and floor it and it pulls harder then the racecar its towing

 

You have got to have the best Avatar for Road Racing or Auto-Xing or DRIFTING. LMAO. AWESOME. Just thought I'd say that.

 

I'm so tempted to buy the pair but I would love to see other cars with both installed and results on how they are doing.

 

Well I just ordered it all up. We'll see what happens.

 

Sorry mistake.

 

well, i just received my k-member in the mail last week and it looks great. too bad my car won't be ready until summer

 

hopefully 6-8 weeks goes by fast

 

Does anyone know if you can use stock A arms with the spohn K member? Also, I am am going to have to make a custom y pipe for my SLP headers and am wondering where is the extra room with a tubular k member? Around the pan or just everywhere? Thanks.