I am looking into building a weight jack system for my camaro. I dont really have much experience with how a true weight jack system works so im not sure exactly what i need to buy.
http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/345/c/S27/#
would that system work?
http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/345/c/S27/#
would that system work?
Supreme Member
Sure will, and it's pretty cheap too isn't it?
I made the same setup they have there by welding the nut to a plate, that is the first place I've seen that has the nut already welded to a plate that is the same diameter as the stock spring.
What you'll have to to is cut off the "fingers" that hold the stock spring in place so the plate has a semi flat place to sit. They you'll have to enlarge the hole a the top of the spring seat so the jack bolt will stick up into the engine compartment. You'l have to scope this out a bit as I did this on a G-body and I've only quickly glanced at my brothers F-body to see if it was doable, and it appears the two cars are built very similar other than I had to relocate my shock out side of the spring pocket.
The rear will be a bit more complicated, you could also do some cutting and welding on the upper spring seat, but you may be able to flip the jack upside down and mount it with the bolt coming out of the bottom of the lower spring perch. Again you'll have to cut off the locating ring.
You'll have to do some cutting and welding but it's completely doable and will allow you to use any of the cheap racing springs out there without worrying if they are the right height or not.
I made the same setup they have there by welding the nut to a plate, that is the first place I've seen that has the nut already welded to a plate that is the same diameter as the stock spring.
What you'll have to to is cut off the "fingers" that hold the stock spring in place so the plate has a semi flat place to sit. They you'll have to enlarge the hole a the top of the spring seat so the jack bolt will stick up into the engine compartment. You'l have to scope this out a bit as I did this on a G-body and I've only quickly glanced at my brothers F-body to see if it was doable, and it appears the two cars are built very similar other than I had to relocate my shock out side of the spring pocket.
The rear will be a bit more complicated, you could also do some cutting and welding on the upper spring seat, but you may be able to flip the jack upside down and mount it with the bolt coming out of the bottom of the lower spring perch. Again you'll have to cut off the locating ring.
You'll have to do some cutting and welding but it's completely doable and will allow you to use any of the cheap racing springs out there without worrying if they are the right height or not.
Quote:
I don't see much similarity in the front suspension between a G-body and a third gen F-body?Originally Posted by BMmonteSS
You'l have to scope this out a bit as I did this on a G-body and I've only quickly glanced at my brothers F-body to see if it was doable, and it appears the two cars are built very similar other than I had to relocate my shock out side of the spring pocket. TGO Supporter
Quote:
Actually there is alot of similariy, and along with the s10. The only difference is we have a strut for an upper control.Originally Posted by rgauder
I don't see much similarity in the front suspension between a G-body and a third gen F-body? Quote:
That's like saying an apple and an orange have a lot in common because they are both fruit.Originally Posted by Dale
Actually there is alot of similariy, and along with the s10. The only difference is we have a strut for an upper control. One is a MacPherson strut front suspension type and the other a double wishbone coil sprung suspension. Similar in that they are independent front suspensions as opposed to dependent.
TGO Supporter
The control arm design is the same.
The spring sits in the same spot
ball joints, and from the center of the spindle down is the same
wheel bearings, breaks, rotors all the same.
I guess in technical terms, they are different. But the basic design is the same.
As for installing weight jacks, its "the same". You just dont have to relocate the shock.
I always wanted to adapt the upper strut part onto my s10 after I air bagged it.
The spring sits in the same spot
ball joints, and from the center of the spindle down is the same
wheel bearings, breaks, rotors all the same.
I guess in technical terms, they are different. But the basic design is the same.
As for installing weight jacks, its "the same". You just dont have to relocate the shock.
I always wanted to adapt the upper strut part onto my s10 after I air bagged it.

Junior Member
Al Miles
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Quote:
http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/345/c/S27/#
would that system work?
I have gone this route on all four corners of my 82. Its a little more complicated than just welding weight jacks into the existing spring pockets. This can result in raising the vehicle even in the lowest position (threads of the adjuster backed completely off) with stock springs because the adjuster takes up space inside the spring tower. Springs that would normally lower the vehicle may leave the vehicle at stock height. I made new spring buckets that gave the springs and extra 1 1/2" of adjustment. The rear buckets were also moved inboard and the rear bump stops removed from their stock location resulting in a small amount of additional tire clearance. If you want to do this project correctly, it is a lot of work and I can supply you with the details. Its much easier to buy a tubular subframe and A arms, then convert to coilovers all the way around (but its more expensive and not DIY).Originally Posted by BeNnYBooPy
I am looking into building a weight jack system for my camaro. I dont really have much experience with how a true weight jack system works so im not sure exactly what i need to buy.http://www.daymotorsports.com/product/345/c/S27/#
would that system work?
Al Miles
Supreme Member
I would ASSume that if you were going through the trouble of installing a weight jack system that you would be able to calculate spring rates. This way you can take "crappy" springs from base model cars and trim them to your desired rate and then be able to set your ride height. The aftermarket circle track springs come in several lengths so you should be able to get a spring short enough to set your ride height.
I took a set of 420 lb/in springs and cut 2 coils off, I can't remember the exact numbers but it worked out to be over 650 lb/in and I was right in the middle of my adjustment on my weight jacks. I'm now running 700 lb/in IROC springs with 2 coils cut (910 lb/in now). Super cheap and super easy
I took a set of 420 lb/in springs and cut 2 coils off, I can't remember the exact numbers but it worked out to be over 650 lb/in and I was right in the middle of my adjustment on my weight jacks. I'm now running 700 lb/in IROC springs with 2 coils cut (910 lb/in now). Super cheap and super easy
Quote:
A little more complicated in what way? Sounds like you just need to account for the height of the adjusters and choose a spring with the rate that you want and appropriate height, are there other issues?Originally Posted by Al Miles
I have gone this route on all four corners of my 82. Its a little more complicated than just welding weight jacks into the existing spring pockets. This can result in raising the vehicle even in the lowest position (threads of the adjuster backed completely off) with stock springs because the adjuster takes up space inside the spring tower. Springs that would normally lower the vehicle may leave the vehicle at stock height. I made new spring buckets that gave the springs and extra 1 1/2" of adjustment. Quote:
The rear buckets were also moved inboard and the rear bump stops removed from their stock location resulting in a small amount of additional tire clearance. If you want to do this project correctly, it is a lot of work and I can supply you with the details. Its much easier to buy a tubular subframe and A arms, then convert to coilovers all the way around (but its more expensive and not DIY).
I’m sure I’m not the only one that would love to see real details. This is something that I’ve long considered, and has the advantage over coil overs in that it still focuses stresses in the locations that were designed to deal with them, and more importantly, the adjusters are mounted to the body so the added weight is sprung rather then unsprung.The rear buckets were also moved inboard and the rear bump stops removed from their stock location resulting in a small amount of additional tire clearance. If you want to do this project correctly, it is a lot of work and I can supply you with the details. Its much easier to buy a tubular subframe and A arms, then convert to coilovers all the way around (but its more expensive and not DIY).
BMmonteSS, have you done this on an f-body or g-body? Details? Pics?
Supreme Member
id love to see some pic's also.
Banned
For what its worth, if you are planning on installing a weightjack or coilover provisions on any car then you'd better plan on the necessary cost of having access to scales, alignment/suspension gauge equipment and a pyrometer to properly set the corner weights and tire temps- otherwise its just plain a waste of money if you do not have the knowledge and tools to make them bneficial- if you do not, the car will most likely end up in worst handling shape do to it being set uneven more so than simple rated and lengthed coventional springs on a factory chassis position.
Supreme Member
I already have coil overs in all 4 corners. Still like to see pic's of this setup. Who knows if I ever chane my mind and don't want to run this setup down the road.
Quote:
Aren’t you supposed to be banned or something?Originally Posted by HPE
For what its worth, if you are planning on installing a weightjack or coilover provisions on any car then you'd better plan on the necessary cost of having access to scales, alignment/suspension gauge equipment and a pyrometer to properly set the corner weights and tire temps- otherwise its just plain a waste of money if you do not have the knowledge and tools to make them bneficial- if you do not, the car will most likely end up in worst handling shape do to it being set uneven more so than simple rated and lengthed coventional springs on a factory chassis position. Why are you wasting time telling this to 2 people that would definitely know it, if not possibly know it better than you do?
So back to the conversation, where did Al… and BM… go?
Banned
Hey aswipe
Wasn't talking to you or your two buddies. I was directing my comment to the guy that started this post- BennyBoopy.
Thanks for caring though.
Wasn't talking to you or your two buddies. I was directing my comment to the guy that started this post- BennyBoopy.Thanks for caring though.


