Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

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Old May 12, 2007 | 04:07 PM
  #1  
neagan's Avatar
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From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

I did a few searches attempting to figure out all the benifits of changing out the K-member & going to the tubular A arms but there were so many misc. references that I wasn't pulling up anything real useful.

Can someone give me the quick rundown on the benifits? I have $2000 budgeted towards rebuilding the front suspension and I want to get the best bang for my buck. I'm using my 88 IROC more for Autocross and Power Touring than dragstrip runs. I've already aquired replacement rear suspension parts and Koni Reds.

I just hate finding out later that I wasted time and $$$ buying the wrong part or going to cheap::

Any thoughts or hints????
Thanks, Nitro
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Old May 12, 2007 | 10:12 PM
  #2  
nape's Avatar
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From: SW Chicago 'burbs
Car: American Iron Firebird
Engine: The little 305 that could.
Transmission: Richmond T-10
Axle/Gears: Floater 9" - 3.64 gears
Re: K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

Spend your money on good struts and springs. K-member and a-arms are a waste on these cars unless you're looking for that last 25 lbs of weight off the front end. All the aftermarket a-arms and k-members are stock geometry so there's nothing to gain there like the Mustang guys do.

Here's what I run on my (almost) American Iron car:

-Stock A-arms with poly bushings
-Stock K-member
-linear rate springs
-Koni Yellow struts
-J&M (Hotpart.com) caster/camber plates.

Spend the money on replacing any worn parts (tie rods, idler arm, sway bar bushings, etc), get a 36mm front sway bar, and good tires. You'll be way ahead freshening the stock suspension unless you just want to brag about shiny powdercoated parts.
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Old May 12, 2007 | 11:40 PM
  #3  
AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

I ran a stock k-member and a-arms for years. I only installed a tubular k-member when I upgraded from a 454 to a 540 with huge headers and needed the extra room.

Upgrading the suspension won't give you any bang for the buck. Install some good struts. Upgrade the brakes. Install a larger sway bar unless you go drag racing. Replace any worn steering components.
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Old May 13, 2007 | 09:00 AM
  #4  
neagan's Avatar
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From: Santa Rosa, Cali
Car: 1988 IROC 5.7 Money Pit
Engine: (being built; modified TPI ZZ4
Transmission: 2200 stall/ stage 3 700R4
Axle/Gears: freshened 3.27 in 9.bolt/
Re: K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

Well that's a relief to hear!; especially since those two types of parts cost a small bundle. Thank You for responding! Nitro
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Old May 13, 2007 | 10:54 AM
  #5  
Mkos1980's Avatar
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Re: K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

Ditto to above
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Old May 14, 2007 | 12:58 AM
  #6  
Kandied91z's Avatar
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From: michigan
Re: K-member/Tubular A-arms/$2000????

check exterior for sale section as probably will have my pa coilover chromoly setup going up for sale in the next day for cheap. very low miles so if your thinking about it you could do it and still do the other things mentioned.

as far as personal benefits i can tell you room to work. this is beneficial as everything is easy to work on the car. plenty of room for custom headers which i will be selling with them if they haven't sold by the 15th.

weight yes... but only in a grand scheme of things. if i had an option to buy this setup for what i'm asking i'd be all over it but to pay for it new i would say it's not necessary even though it is really nice to have it doesn't really add any performance to the car.
----------
Originally Posted by nape
Spend your money on good struts and springs. K-member and a-arms are a waste on these cars unless you're looking for that last 25 lbs of weight off the front end. All the aftermarket a-arms and k-members are stock geometry so there's nothing to gain there like the Mustang guys do.

Here's what I run on my (almost) American Iron car:

-Stock A-arms with poly bushings
-Stock K-member
-linear rate springs
-Koni Yellow struts
-J&M (Hotpart.com) caster/camber plates.

Spend the money on replacing any worn parts (tie rods, idler arm, sway bar bushings, etc), get a 36mm front sway bar, and good tires. You'll be way ahead freshening the stock suspension unless you just want to brag about shiny powdercoated parts.

www.rockauto.com pick up all these little worn replacement parts for under $100 and you have a whole new front end with some good bushings all around. not race ready but as good as factory and cheap, well i guess that depends as they will work but they probably won't hold up to the abuse of time.


Last edited by Kandied91z; May 14, 2007 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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