I have a '85 Trans Am with the 305. It has really bad suspension on it, shocks are shot, it vibrates like crazy, every bump I hit makes me feel like I'm about to fly off the road. I don't know anything about suspensions, so my question is what all do I need to do to upgrade my suspension. Make it ride and handle like it's suppose to.

 

1. Make sure your wheels are balanced properly. Any tire shop can do this for $20. You will be amazed what this will do for your ride.

2. Bad struts will create a bad vibration. Make sure the mounts are good.

3. Broken shocks will vibrate on any hole that the tire rolls over.

4. Check tie rods, ball joints and center link. If any of these are bad replace. Also check the lubrication points too.

5. Check your tires in case you have a broken belt. New tires are like a pair of new shoes. Everyone loves that first walk in shoes (once they are broken in of course) and cars love new tires.

6. Once all of that is done get a computerized tunes up from a reputable company.

 

Shocks
Struts
Strut Mounts
Springs
Tie Rods
Ball Joints
Idler Arm
Center(Drag) Link
Rag Joint
All Bushings

Make sure wheels are not bent as well as any other suspension pieces such as the control arms, GOOD TIRES, and an alignment and she will ride as good as new.

You could also have drivetrain vibrations though.

 

What's a computerized tune up??!!

 

Where the car is set to factory timing and specs, not just putting in new wires and plugs. Also eliminate in possible vacumn leaks that might make the motor miss or throw off the timing. Although it may not be suspension related, a shaking off timed motor makes the car ride rough. I can set a glass of water on my dash and see almost no shake of the water in the glass.

Here is a description from a local auto repair shop by my house:

Your modern vehicle's engine is a highly sophisticated piece of equipment. The days of your father's gas-guzzler are long gone—instead, Federal Exhaust Emission and Fuel Economy regulations demand that today's vehicles be equipped with electronic engine control systems, to curb carbon emissions and increase fuel efficiency. With technically-advanced control systems taking the place of simple engine components, common maintenance services such as tune-ups are also a thing of the past. Regular services (such as spark plug and filter replacements) are still required, as well as a computerized analysis of your vehicle's control computer. Our factory-trained technicians are here to provide these basic services.

Here's how your modern vehicle's control computer operates:
A network of sensors and switches convert and monitor engine operating conditions into electrical signals. The computer receives this information, and, based on information and instructions coded within this savvy computer program, commands are sent to three different systems: ignition, fuel, and emission control. Whenever a problem arises (as seen by that nagging "check engine" light), our service pros check whatever command is prompted, in addition to the status of your engine control computer and sensors. That way you'll know if your vehicle's performance is caused by a real problem, or just a sensor/computer issue.

Here's a brief overview of your vehicle's sensory components:
Mass airflow sensor
Throttle position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor
Coolant temperature sensor
Exhaust oxygen sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Camshaft position sensor

 

so if I go to larry chey chevrolet and told them I wanted a computerized tune-up - they would know what I was talking about? I have alot or drivetrain vibration but I always assumed it was the stock motor and transmission mount bushings causing it. Thanks for bringing this up here. I didn't know they could check your computer without a CEL. - P.S. I don't see a MAF on mine... I don't understand how it reads air flow and temp.

 

Forget the "coputerized tune-up" thing for the minute.

You need springs, shocks & struts, and sway bar bushings & end links; those being the soft parts that always wear out. The strut mounts, which are the bearing thing that the struts go in at the top, sometimes needs replacement as well.

Ball joints and control arm bushings are the actual front suspension wear parts. They're the "hinges" that operate every time the car goes over a bump or the steering wheel is turned. Obviously, an old car gets around to needing those too. In the rear, it's cheaper and easier to just replace the control arms, they're CHEAP. Same for the Panhard bar, which also has bushings that wear out.... just get a new one.

Tie rod ends, the center link, and the idler arm, are the wear parts in the steering system. These cars ALWAYS need those; especially, the idler arm and the center link. Best to just replace the whole thing as an assembly.

Finally, your steering gearbox probably needs adjustment, the rag joint (the thing that couples the steering column to the steering gear) probably is all loose and floppy, and your frame may be cracked where the steering gear attaches to it; a VERY COMMON problem in these cars.

Aftermarket add-ons that improve steering response and overall solidity of the car, in addition to helping reduce the tendency of the frame to crack at the steering gear, include a "wonderbar" and a strut tower brace.

No, you DO NOT want to have this done at a Chevrolet dealer!!!! For one thing, they will ONLY use factory parts, which ARE NOT what you want; and for another, you will pay AT LEAST 3 times as much there as anywhere else. Most of this, you can do yourself.

 

Thanks so much for this info. This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

I agree. If you go to the dealership bring a lot of money. I was just pointing out that at the end of the day after all of the aformentioned repairs that both myself and sofakingdom outlined you might want to consider a tuneup if you still have vibration. That is why it was last on my list of things to check and do. And yes you can do alot of the tuneup repairs depending on your skill level and tools available but sometimes it is easier to just pay someone to do it for you.

 

86NiteRider - Sorry to say you're getting hosed buddy. All they're gonna do for your "computerized tune-up" is throw some plugs, wires, and whatever else they can sell you on that pertains to a normal tune up. Then they'll toss it on the scanner and look for any codes (which you can do yourself with a paperclip on these cars, I'm pretty sure they are all GM-1 Diagnostics since my car is and it's a '92 and any Camaro that's ever come into our shop is also GM-1)

Trust me... The Aamco I work at has a much more elaborate write-up for the same thing, lol. You can even go into most Aamco's to have them scan your car for free, just because they want the chance to point out anything wrong and try to sell the work to you. I have all of my friends come by the shop for the free Diagnostic Service so I can clear codes for them and such.

 

Your not being a good friend if you are clearing codes for your friends... You should know that clearing the code will not correct the problem. All clearing the codes do is make it hard for the next person to diagnose what is wrong.

 

My advice would be, forget all about clearing codes and tune-ups and Midas and all that for the time being.

Codes won't cause the car to ride rough.

 

Thank you for that overly-assuming statement Captain Obvious. If there was a problem that was causing a code... Why would I clear it? The code will just come back as soon as conditions to set it are met again.

I wouldn't worry about the tune-up if you're trying to chase a vibration anyways. Driveline, wheel bearings, wheel balance, pinion angle, trans. tailhousing, broken mounts (engine OR trans), uncommon metal to metal contact (such as headers on an oil filter adapter for instance).

And as far as riding smoother, I'd replace springs all the way around first (IROC springs are cheaper than cheapo shocks and struts) and see if that's acceptable for you. If not, at least you can put some Monroe Sensatrac's in there afterwards without them getting beaten up by your saggy and soft old springs, and your pockets won't be bulimic afterwards. Or you could always go Eibachs & KYB, Koni, etc... But it'll cost twice as much in the end. Is this thing only used as a daily driver? That's the question to ask yourself, and go from there.