been looking into it and was wondering what the best setup would be. if anything i would be in the lower classes so i dont need anything crazy, hopefully some of you guys that do this could give me a little insight...

 

The best shocks you can buy and the best tires you can buy- and don't spend another peny on anything else compromising on wither of those two first. Shoccks- koni Yellows are the best bang for the buck when it comes to valving and chassis control. Tires? You realy need 'r' rated tires- good for about a 3-4 second gain on a 60 second track, but street tires will do fine for starting out. A very good street tire is the Goodyear GS-D3 (event hough this is a great street tire, it will not compare to an r rated racing tire compound. Street tires get greasy from overheating the tread in about 1/3 to 1/2 way through a run. SO not overdriving the car is your best tip. Controlled driving will give the best time results.

 

pushing the car slightly over the limit on street tires gave me best results so far. If you stay in FS class then just make sure all the stock components are in good working order.subframe connectors and wonderbar will help

 

walk the course SEVERAL times,to familarize your self with layout.thats prob the best thing you could do if this is new to you
tip 4 ya if you have a auto trans a shift kit will hurt you ALOT LOL
(MY OWN EXPERIANCE ANYWAYS )

 

1. Great tires
2. Great shocks (KONIs, Bilsteins, etc)
3. Allignment
4. Practice ALOT

1 and 2 are going to be in the $700-$800...per item. 4 KONIs Yellows are about $750 and 4 245/50R16 GS-D3s are $700-$800ish.
But, 1-4 is if and only if the rest of the suspension and steering is in stock or better than stock condition. Replace bushings, ball joints, sway bar bushings, and all that good stuff.

 

You're not even putting down any power to the outer rear wheel with the one rubber scrubber. heat is not an issue if you can't plant it. I watched your walmart parkinglot video- Don't you feel embarassed to do something like that and people stare at you?

 

yea i have to agree with bobitzaboy on the wallmart vid, i cant believe you would even think of doing that in a parking lot, full of cars and people, in broad daylight , and a 1 wheel peel at that

 

you can't expect much from 18 year old posi. if you feel embarrassed by it then give me a new unit and i will be glad to put it on for you.
it was an empty area of the lot, and yes i've been disappointed that it was one wheel peel, the posi doesn't do it's job that well anymore, like i said to BobItzaboy if you can get me a new one, i will gladly put it on.
attached is times from last auto-x i went to. One before that is where i found that by letting the car go little more loose gave me 4 seconds better time

 

Are we talking an 18yr old posi? Or an 18yr old?

 

not sure of the question, but i was saying that it is an original posi unit with a lot of miles and 18 years old. That is why i don't expect much from it anymore

 

What he is trying to say is that you're a friggin (insert your favorite descritive word) and give guys who are real auto-x'ers a bad name by pulling these kinds of stunts in public places.

Seriously what were you trying to accomplish?

 

shocks and decent tires first. I believe subframe connectors will bump you up a class from FS to ESP (or higher I believe).
R tires don't give you any audible feedback when you are pushing the limits, they just let go when they lose grip.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=BQ54A0NY2l0
The squeeling you hear in the above video is from another car on the course (we run up to 3 cars at the same time).

In-car video with the R Tires (Kumho V710, 265/50/16)
http://youtube.com/watch?v=rq8rTEermLU

And here is an in-car video with street tires (Kumho 712's up front and Nitto 555's in the back).
http://youtube.com/watch?v=R1e5_v3kVZg

I need to modify the in-car bracket so that it doesn't shake so much, makes the video very hard to watch.

 

nothing really, what's a big deal anyway? And how doing a "one wheel peelout" in a car automatically gives a bad name to auto-x people?
either way, if you really feel bothered about it then oh well, there is nothing i can do about it

 

Note to self. If I post an idiotic video of myself obnoxiously and dangerously around public parked vehicles doing dounuts in broad daylight in front of the general public- I will catch crap about it. Note to self. Do not do this again because it makes me look foolish, it abuses my car senselessly, and those people I thought were looking at me like I was cool were actually looking at me like a retard.


I guess I had to spell it out for some people when they are so wet behind the ears they do not know it.,p>

You posted it- deal with the crap that follows- got it?

 

I also want to add this for some food 4 thought. What if YOUR car were parked closest and you were walking out to witness someone else doing that near your parked car? Your reaction suddenly is different isn't it? As were the people looking at you- they have no idea if you are going to loss control just as you would worry witnessing someone else doing such a stupid stunt in a close proximity public place.

Believe me, Nobody is looking at you like you have a cool car doing stupid stuff like that.

 

i hope this picture makes you feel better

the closest vehicle was a 18wheeler and i doubt i could damage it. and i am glad spelling it out helped you. i didn't care or thought of what somebody was thinking, if i remember right i've tried to wait out until that section of parking lot was empty anyway.
if it makes you feel better you can keep talking crap about this,
i'm out of this discussion
thanks for the comments
now back to topic

 

i started looking into konis today and was wondering if the coilovers are any good compared to the basic koni shocks...

 

coil overs need to be custom mounted to the car.

Front Kit (no struts included it looks like), Bolt in setup.
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1543

Rear Kit with Shocks, requires welding in plates.
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1533

I'd personally go with coil overs, just not in my budget at the moment, with the new engine and brake setup I am installing.

 

ya that is pricey is there a noticealbe difference though with them? if not then the normal shocks would do just fine...

 

Unless you are going to seriously compete with the car in a class for extremely modified cars I would just run KONIs and some good springs. For the extra money you'll put into the coil-overs, you can do alot more to the car.

 

i just finished my coil-overs today and went for a spin, and im liking them a lot, come on spring!

 

I agree with the others... a one wheel peel in a busy parking lot is a very dumb thing to do let alone advertise.


I plan on buying...
Koni Yellows ($750 right?)
redo the bushings in the front and rear (not sure on $ but I'm sure it will help a ton since my car has almost 140k miles)
race tires and an extra set of IROC wheels ($1000 roughly)
an alignment (I was told it might be like $200)
a 4 point harness for the drivers side ($80)
high performance brake pads for the front (100 bucks I think... I have disk/drum)

A cat-back is the only other thing I could do and still stay in stock class, but I don't have money for that now and I don't think $300-500 for an extra 10 hp is worth it.

 

Looks like a good plan.
If you want to gain a little extra power, I'd go for an air foil, LT headers and a cat-back. That would go a long way to waking the car up. I'm not sure if that would change the class though.
I really hope you don't have to pay $200 for a allignment. The shop I go to will set the allignment to any specs I want to the standard $30ish fee. Might be because I have camber/caster plate. Which reminds me, you'll at least want to replace the stock strut mounts with some good EOM replacements. If the rules permits, you might want to look into either some Spohn or HotPart.com mounts. I have the old design HotParts and I've thought about getting some of the newer one's...just cause they look better.
Spohn
HotPart
I like the HotPart because they are more easily adjustable.

 

There is nothing in the rules saying I can/can't mess with an airfoil and I can do a cat back but the headers will bump me up two classes.

I thought the $200 price seemed really high but both me and the person I talked had no idea at all.

Anything other than the stock camber/caster plate will also bump me up two classes. Based on the links you have posted I would go with the HotPart item because of the cheaper price and lifetime warranty. A lifetime warranty is always good in my opinion.

 

If it will bump you classes, just get some good replacement parts. They'll help out alot more than the stockers.