hey guys i am deciding on which springs to put in my t/a. i had the eibach prokit on my iroc and i really liked it but i read after installing those that they dont help performance but only looks. i will be auto-xing but drag racing too. i want a spring that will keep me level in corners, not rattle my teeth out when i drive and still transfer weight decently at the strip.

the rest of my suspension will include all polyurethane bushings, tubular rear control arms, stock front control arms, new struts and shocks(not sure on these yet either. thnkin KYB AGX), jegster torque arm, adjustable panhard, LCARBs, and alston and jegster subframe connecters welded in.

thanks your input is much appreciated.

 

http://www.lmperformance.com/18818/7.html

anybody ever use these J&M suspension parts? never heard of em

 

J&M makes good pieces. I have thier strut mounts (camber/caster plates) and really like them.
For springs, I'd deterine what spring rate you want and at what ride height and order a set. Or, you go with Ground Control weight jacks with a set of springs to your choice and be able to adjust ride height.

 

these VOGTLAND springs look very nice and being german doesnt bother me cause i know bimmers handle incredible and theya are german. and at $50 cheaper than the eibach's ill try em out.

 

Wait!! lol
From what I've read they are very soft. Softer than stock and progressive front and rear. Not a good performing spring!

 

hmmm.... well then im back to sguare one on choosing springs..

nobody has nay suggestions for dual purpose cars?

 

u have to match ur suspension... so ur shocks are a really big deal. with auto Xing u might not want to get the AGX KYB they are good and cheap but im not sure if thats what u want to be going with.... as far as auto Xing

usually auto Xing cars run really high rate springs like 800lb front and 200 rear. some even run coil overs as well. it really depends on your budget too.

ur doing everything else correctly tho as far as suspension, u need to find a happy medium with the springs/struts/shocks etc.

KONI yellows are suppose to be really good. match them with 750-800lb front springs and 170-200lb rear springs and ull have a crazy handling third gen. 750/170 spring combos will be better with the bumps/street driving on your kidneys. the 800/200 combo will be more full out auto Xing.
pro kits are 715/160 160 max progressive rear. so id say step that up alil to 750/170-180 and that would be better, but 800/200 being the best

 

I've never done it, but I know that alot of people order springs with rates and heights to their liking from manufacturers such as SSS, Eibach, etc. With some research into where you want to ride and what rates you want, you could do the same. I've seen alot of people run springs that are 750/800 front and 150 rear and that's what I plan to get. Don't know if that's what you want or what uncompressed height you need, though.
I would think that a set of 200 rear springs would be too much. When you think that Pro-Kits are 170 MAX, meaning when they are nearing the limit they will compress, they are 170 in/lbs. If you start out at that or greater, I don't see it working very well with something you drive on the streets. That's why I'm trying 150s to start with. I don't want to be bouncing off the roads if I hit a rough spot. I also want to get weight jacks with my springs so I can adjust the height.
Get the KYBs if that's all you have the money for, but if you can swing it, get KONIs. Reds are good, Yellows are better. Just keep in mind: the stiffer the springs you run, the better dampening you will need. Shocks control the springs, and the stiffer the springs, the harder they are to control and the better shocks you'll need.