Bought springs and want to avoid a bind
Bought springs and want to avoid a bind
I just bought a set of generic lowering springs for my Camaro they are a 1.8" front and 1.2" rear drop. if these were intended for a V8 will the front of my v6 car be a ton taller than the back? Like I said they were billed as 82-92 camaro no differentiation between the v6 and v8.
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 270
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From: Bham AL
Car: '92 RS
Engine: 357ci
Transmission: G-Force t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 10bolt mini spool
Re: Bought springs and want to avoid a bind
The spring is dropping the suspension and weight has nothing to do with it. The spring being 1.8 shorter will drop the car 1.8 from where it was reguardless.
For that matter the v8 and v6 replacement springs have the same part number at all your box stores. I had thought about running v6 spring to set the suspension softer for drag racing till I found that its all the same.
For that matter the v8 and v6 replacement springs have the same part number at all your box stores. I had thought about running v6 spring to set the suspension softer for drag racing till I found that its all the same.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 1
From: Manchester, CT + Nashua, NH
Car: 90 Firebird Formula
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 one wheel peel
Re: Bought springs and want to avoid a bind
But its not the same, at all.
The v6 springs are much softer than the V8 springs. Not only because the v6 is lighter, but because it was not made to handle like the v8's. Look at and V6 car with a V8 swapped in but no spring change. The front looks slammed.
Even the v8 cars have a ton of different springs from the facotry. They are generally different, with the RS base model being soft, the Z-28 being mid-level, and the IROC / WS6 being the stiffest. Not only that, but each of those categories had a few different spring rates that were close, because these cars came with CCS (computer selected springs) so that each individual car with different options (A/C, power accessories ect.) could ride at the same height. If you look on my RPO sheet in the glovebox, there are 4 CCS's for my car and they are all different in every car.
That being said, I dont know much about the technicalities of these springs. However, it is very possible that you could cut a coil or two off the front ones to keep a nice ride height. Just read up on the proper way to cut springs and index them first.
The v6 springs are much softer than the V8 springs. Not only because the v6 is lighter, but because it was not made to handle like the v8's. Look at and V6 car with a V8 swapped in but no spring change. The front looks slammed.
Even the v8 cars have a ton of different springs from the facotry. They are generally different, with the RS base model being soft, the Z-28 being mid-level, and the IROC / WS6 being the stiffest. Not only that, but each of those categories had a few different spring rates that were close, because these cars came with CCS (computer selected springs) so that each individual car with different options (A/C, power accessories ect.) could ride at the same height. If you look on my RPO sheet in the glovebox, there are 4 CCS's for my car and they are all different in every car.
That being said, I dont know much about the technicalities of these springs. However, it is very possible that you could cut a coil or two off the front ones to keep a nice ride height. Just read up on the proper way to cut springs and index them first.
Re: Bought springs and want to avoid a bind
the proper way to cut springs is to do so without heating them. I've done hundreds in the past. I'm just hoping the extra .6in drop in front makes it so I don't have to cut.
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