No, I'm using the way they are measured by everyone else in the world.
You don't have to email Eibach- it's listed on Spohn's website:
714 lb/in linear front
109-177 lb/in progressive rear
And I agreed that I could have been wrong about the regular IROCs getting those rates.
(see how it's listed in lb/in -that's pounds per inch of compression- and not pounds per square inch? That's the industry's standard. How would you measure in pounds per square inch? The surface area of the spring? And where would you get the 'pounds' to compare to the square inches? Read this and and this get your facts right.)

I posted a link to that list somewhere above, but facts seem to be ignored in this thread.

 

I never argued with you about Eibachs ratings. Maybe I am talking about your way of measuring??

When I see lb/in----I automatcialy think pounds per square inch.

I have never seen anywhere that says lbs per inch of compression....we must be talking about the same thing. Just never seen that term anywhere.

 

I never said you were arguing about the Eibach spring rates- I just posted them so you didn't have to email Eibach. I think the Sportline's rates are similar, but they are softer in the front by a little and a couple dozen softer in the rear, but they set a good bit lower. I don't think this is a good combination at all. Especially when Eibach says they were designed to use the bump stops as 'spring suplements' or something along those lines...
Listings may have not specified pounds per inch of compression, but that is the standard of measurement for spring rates from everything I've read.

 

still trying to figure out if the sterp i want to go w/ will work.

 

I would get some better shocks, such as the high end Tokicos, and which ever spring you think would better suite your needs- if your worried about the ride comfort more than the handling, get the softer springs. If you would rather have a stiffer more performance oriented set, go with the stiffer springs. You could get the KYBs, knowing what I know about how important shocks are in the suspension, I reccomend getting the best ones you can afford.

 

which would be the GR2s.

 

Well, either save til you can afford better or get the GR2s.
Not trying to be an *** here, but I just want you to get the best out of your car. It took me about 8 months of saving to get the KONIs for my car, and even at that I had to get the rears then the fronts. I just knew I what I wanted and wasn't going to settle.

 

well right now i NEED new shocks at least. my suspension is so BAD right now i need to do something. i want the best for my ride as well and i think i can wait any longer. i also need to get a front end rebuild kite now as well which is why im going w/ the cheaper shocks/struts.

 

I completely understand that. You can always upgrade down the road. My first set of replacement shocks were Monroes....ewwwww

 

yea that what im trying to avoid getting. so i figure KYBs for the money @ 140 are more worth it.

 

Way back when, I had GR2s in front and Gas Adjusts in the rear. Lotta shock in the rear, not much in front. GR2s will give you an enhanced "Boulevard" ride. If that is what you want, they are good. If you want any sport in your handling, look elsewhere.

 

what do you mean?

 

I just purchase a set of Ground Control Coilovers & will be putting them on soon. I heard that they are great, know I need some dropped spindles for the front & 10" linear springs & Im good to go.

 

FORMULA355TPI just put in my gr2 shocks, iroc rear springs, new panhard and control arms. Obviously it's not all that useful for a direct comparison to anything. But I can say that with the rear springs (i'll ask him the rate), the gr2's are nicely matched.

Speed bump test: Drive over a speed bump after the front wheels are over at like 5mph or whatever the seems prudent..

I get nice initial absorbtion of going up the bump. That is to say, it doesn't feel like the car is being stopped initially by the bump. (i have steep bumps that used to stop the car if i didn't hit the gas). Coming off the bump i get movement below normal stance, but it fades back to normal with no bounce back. I would say that this is ideal for a non-drag car.

Crappy road test: Drive over a road that you normally drive miles out of your way to avoid.

Before it felt like the rear of the car was hopping around and doing it's own thing with TONS of noise going over these potholes. the car would jerk up and around as the road sharply turns (with potholes at the turn).

This is where the work that Josh did, extremely frustrating work, really shines. Now, the car's body barely rattles going over the potholes. The rear suspension is actually doing it's job and absorbing all the sharp small movements of the wheels. Even making the turn no longer makes me feel like the rear is hopping in the opposite direction.

Is this a "boulavard" feeling. Hell no. The rear is tight. When you come off a light the rear does not slump (my engine sucks i know, but it would probably handle a mild 350 too). The gr2 does not feel like it's too weak for the rear springs, it doesn't feel like it's way too strong for them. It seems correctly matched, allowing the spring to do it's job while keeping bounceback dulled to nearly non-existant.

The front is coming soon. The real test of gr2's would be longevity. Another thing i would think would be an issue for someone is shorter springs. These seem very nice matched to barely used springs. I can only imagine then that they'd not be very well matched to much lower springs, especially if they are much stiffer like dropped springs usually are.

 

well my car rattles over any rough road. potholes are torture. feels like the car is going to come apart. sice this is going to be mostly a daily driver adn see very little track time i want a comfortable smooth ride.

 

Mine is a daily driver too. FORMULA355TPI said the rear suspension parts (control arms and panhard), were the worst he's ever had to deal with. The looks of them were normal enough from the outside, but the bolts were completely rust fused to the metal sleeves inside the bushings on all 3 pieces. Saws all and 7 or so blades later + blow torch and breaker bar + 1.5 hours later, he finally got all 3 parts off the car.

The reason why i mention it is that along with worn spings and shocks, these components were also seriously contributing to the noise and poor performance of the rear suspension.

It would be like night and day for you to get what i got done. New panhard, control arms, springs, shocks (and i needed new sway bar endlinks). My drive is much smoother now than before. You could make it even smoother by using RS springs. The car went from sounding like a bunch of metal tossing around the bed of a truck when i drive down some streets to sounding like a normal car.

 

Hi! , i dont know if i will explain myself good :S...

i´ve just bought a set of KYB GR-2 for my Trans AM GTA (1989) with WS6 Performance suspension... i´ve bought them because i note that my fronts are very loose... they bump a bit, so i think about changing the set i have with shocks KYB GR-2...

I´ve read the comments but i dont get close to a determination :

Are better than stock shocks? i think the fronts are too loose but the rear got some functionality now... i´ve thought about changing the 4 shocks entirely by this KYB.

Im not gonna race with my car, but i want a bit of safety if i get a close curve with little bit speed... and of course bumps out...

Do you think i´ve made a right selection? thinking about the relationship of Price/Quality?

Thanks in advance Fbody maniacs

P.S: sorry about my bad english :S

 

Yes, they are better than your stock shocks. Most likely, your shocks are about 20 years old and worn out. For a stock replacement shock, they are a very nice piece.

 

Great , that is almost what i want to read

Thanks for your fast reply

 

i replaced my stock WS6 struts/shocks/springs with ebach sportlines, GR2s up front and gas-a-justs in the rear. WAYYYYY better than stock... made a huge difference.
the KYB GR2s are considered a stock replacement but they are alil better than stock. the gas-ajusts are really stiff compared to the Gr2s.

ppl say Gr2s wont last as long on lowered cars. had mine on a daily driver with sportlines for almost a yr and they are still working. sold my sportlines for cut moog5664/5665s. i got them due to tight budget. but if your looking for better performance i would look into better shocks/struts, tokio lumminas, KYB AGX, KONI red/yellows, blistens

 

Just made my decision that much easier, thanks guys!

 

I am going to be doing my suspension soon and I know from experience with my monza that Gr-2's are not bad at all. When I rebuilt the suspension on my 78 monza I was pulling all the original suff out and replacing with new performance parts and that was a task in its own but if your gonna do it then go all out.

I replaced.....
shocks (Gr-2)
springs (Moog performance springs and cut to my hearts desire)
Ball joints
Tie rods
performance sway bars (old GM production race parts are ultra rare and worth the price)
All rubber bushings were swaped with Poly
and I reinforced the chasis with some box steel

When all was said and done and a new set of tires with 8" rims I was taking vettes on the inside of the corner and not hearing a single chirp. Those shocks are still in the car and went through two autoX seasons and daily driving for almost 12k and they are still good. I guess some people blame an entire brand for the fault of a couple bad, in manufacturing you will always have a bad product from time to time and have alot of good. Just go through the post and see how many possitive vs negative and you will have about a 3-1 in possitive favor so its worth doing.

 

Had mine on the car for three years now and they feel great!!! Car corners and turns really well with them and a set of Springtech lowering springs.

It felt like a whole different car.

 

i am running kyb gr-2 and hotchkis springs. i couldn't be happier with the overall ride!

 

what moog springs would work with a 1983 pontiac trans am with a WS6 package? I would like to keep the stock ride height

 

i dont like them, for stock yes but i have droped my ride with the eibach sportlines and the back shocks keep sagging and making the back low and it looks dumb i should have gone with bilsteins or koni in the first place