It has been for a while now, just a "wet" appearance over most of the shock, my mechanic said just watch it for a while, and go with it.
But just last week i got 2 new front tires, some $140 Coopers, and the mechanics there noticed the strut leaking again. (so did I). But after looking at the 2 tires that came off, the LF was wearing on the inside, and the RF was in decent shape. They said that was because of the RF strut being weak. What do you all think of that?? My front end alignment is good, car goes down road straight.

The front end of my IROC is all stock, but I have done some things in the back. Spohn LCAs, brackets, panhard bar, and torque arm. All 4 shocks are stock.

What I am getting at here, is that I am thinking about new struts for the front. I dont want to wear out my new tires, if things arent right in the front.
I have read some posts here, and I am leaning towards new Koni struts. I priced the red special D models at $204 in Summit. But most people talk about the yellow Sport models. I beleive they are both adjustable. I want better than stock performance, but I dont autocross or hammer it too much. I goto drag strip a few times a year. I also dont want to skimp out on shocks either. I really only want to do the fronts for now. I read somewhere that you need to replace all 4. That is just too much green right now! So what is the big difference between the red and yellow shocks?
Thanks for you replies.

 

Car going strait and alignment being off are different things

For a stock car you really dont need expensive struts
They're nice but you dont need them

Get some OEM replacements from a local parts store
Usually they will be under $200 for all 4

And yes if they are original, then you do need to replace them

 

Well what about the LF tire wearing with the RF strut leaking?
What about the difference between Koni red shocks and yellow?

My IROC is definitly not stock. I have done alot to it. Why replace stock components with more OEM?? Nothing wrong with upgrading things.

 

I see gears, stall and a torque arm
Pretty stock

You also said you were tight on funds, hence the cheaper OEM replacements

Tire wear is more an alignment thing
Struts do affect it, just not as drastically as alignment

 

Well if you must know what I have done to it, would take a while to type.
Here is a quickie list.
I have over 3k in the tranny, with corvette servo, Transgo shift kit, and a recent rebuild and upgrade. The Vigilante TC wasnt cheap eaither. I have all Spohn stuff in the back, but shocks/springs are stock. Welded in subframe connectors.
For the motor, Hooker headers (coated), full 3" exhaust into a single Flowmaster 1in/1out. The intake system is all opened up. K+N, ported out, gasket matched and Siamesd intake. Injectors cleaned up and flowmatched.
FP set to 48. Jacobs ign box and coil+wires. MAF descreened. Custom chip work by myself, with LM1 WB O2 meter installed permanently. I took alot of the extra pollution crap off. Now I have never had the valve covers off, and still have stock cam.

I am in the low 14s, and sure you are gonna say my motor is still stock. I want to get into 13s without getting into the motor. i still get 17-18mpg, and higher on the road.

Sure I could spend the $$ for all 4 right now, I just dont want to!
I need to talk to my mechanic and see what he thinks.

 

I say go with Bilsteins, there more comfortable & not as stiff. As for tire wear my 2 front wear faster on the inside also, our cars are notorious for that. Could be a caster/camber issue. I think Konis are good for hardcore racing, but it is all preferance.