If u installed Competition Eng. SFC click here
#1
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Location: Kingston, Ontario, Canada
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Car: 88 IROC-Z, 01 10th Firehawk M6
Engine: 355 TPI/425 HP
Transmission: Vette 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
If u installed Competition Eng. SFC click here
I just got a set of the bolt on ones and was wondering, since the instructions are a little vague.
Rule is to raise the car and load the chassis to install them, but it says to unhook the LCA and put SFC in the socket of the LCA, but to usually unbolt chassis pieces, u should have the suspension unloaded to remove.
Any advice or better install instructions of these particular SFCs?
Thanks
Rule is to raise the car and load the chassis to install them, but it says to unhook the LCA and put SFC in the socket of the LCA, but to usually unbolt chassis pieces, u should have the suspension unloaded to remove.
Any advice or better install instructions of these particular SFCs?
Thanks
#2
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Car: 87 formula
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T5
Re: If u installed Competition Eng. SFC click here
I did that with mine, the UMI instructions said to raise the rear until the control arms are parallel with the ground and then unbolt them. There wasn't any pressure or anything on mine, the bolts were tight, but they came right out.
Do you plan on getting them welded in?
Do you plan on getting them welded in?
#3
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Car: 88 IROC-Z, 01 10th Firehawk M6
Engine: 355 TPI/425 HP
Transmission: Vette 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73
Re: If u installed Competition Eng. SFC click here
Yes, after all bolted in place, I'm gonna run a bead at every contact point
#4
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Re: If u installed Competition Eng. SFC click here
Whenever I unbolt the rear control arms, I dont unload the suspension. I support the body, and support the rear at ride height. Then unbolt. Thats how I do it anyway.
But...in any case, Ive also taken out the front control arm bolt, with all 4 tires on the "ground", and nothing moved. Was able to slide the bolt in and out at will...
Also...I dont like the idea of raising the car then loading the suspension. Once you unload it, I feel that the car has to be driven to settle it back out into its "natural" loaded status. Sometimes bouncing on it will work, but now youre bouncing on a car that you have supported with jack stands or whatever.
So my procedure is kinda like this. I put the front end on my ramps, then use a floor jack to lift the rear by the diff. Then support the chassis by putting jack stands right infront of the control arm pockets. Lower the jack JUST enough that the jacks start making contact. Then I stop, and do what I gotta do. I usually put a second set of jack stands under the axle tubes...as a "just in case" thing.
Hasnt failed yet.
J.
But...in any case, Ive also taken out the front control arm bolt, with all 4 tires on the "ground", and nothing moved. Was able to slide the bolt in and out at will...
Also...I dont like the idea of raising the car then loading the suspension. Once you unload it, I feel that the car has to be driven to settle it back out into its "natural" loaded status. Sometimes bouncing on it will work, but now youre bouncing on a car that you have supported with jack stands or whatever.
So my procedure is kinda like this. I put the front end on my ramps, then use a floor jack to lift the rear by the diff. Then support the chassis by putting jack stands right infront of the control arm pockets. Lower the jack JUST enough that the jacks start making contact. Then I stop, and do what I gotta do. I usually put a second set of jack stands under the axle tubes...as a "just in case" thing.
Hasnt failed yet.
J.
Last edited by ghettocruiser; 09-26-2008 at 11:48 AM.
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