Front suspension re-design
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen 10 bolt
Front suspension re-design
I've been tossing around the idea of completely changing my front end. My thoughts are to use a front end setup like a C5 (upper/ lower a-arms, short spindle, rack and pinion, etc...maybe even using C5 stuff). Kind of like what you see for the 1st gens. Basically I'll be removing the factory subframe and replacing it with a fabricated one. The end result would be a max effort road race suspension. I have coilovers on the front, and although I have not had issues with the strut towers, I don't want to have to worry about that. Plus choices on dampers increase exponentially over the factory struts.
I'm looking for input from those who have done something like this...on a third gen preferably. The only issue I forsee, is finding a rack and pinion that is the right length so that the tie rods travel at the same rate as the a-arms. Advice and POSITIVE opinions are appreciated.
I'm looking for input from those who have done something like this...on a third gen preferably. The only issue I forsee, is finding a rack and pinion that is the right length so that the tie rods travel at the same rate as the a-arms. Advice and POSITIVE opinions are appreciated.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Front suspension re-design
It would be a whole lot of effort and expense, but it would be interesting. If you're going to do that though, why not tube-frame the whole car?
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Front suspension re-design
There is no factory subframe to remove. You can unbolt and remove the k-member but the front "frame rails" are steel and sheet metal including the inner fenders and are all welded together into one unibody. The front struts are attached to the reinforced inner fenders making the body part of the frame.
It would probably be cheaper to cut the front of the car right off and buy a complete aftermarket front subframe assembly. You would then have to remount the front fenders and front end to the new subframe.
You need a complete front suspension package like this (second page).
http://www.swracecars.com/Files/pdf/...0and%20sus.pdf
By the time you're done, it would probably be easier to just build a tube chassis car. The third gen unibody design doesn't make it easy to do major changes like the older models were able to do.
It would probably be cheaper to cut the front of the car right off and buy a complete aftermarket front subframe assembly. You would then have to remount the front fenders and front end to the new subframe.
You need a complete front suspension package like this (second page).
http://www.swracecars.com/Files/pdf/...0and%20sus.pdf
By the time you're done, it would probably be easier to just build a tube chassis car. The third gen unibody design doesn't make it easy to do major changes like the older models were able to do.
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen 10 bolt
Re: Front suspension re-design
What you've linked is basically what I'm looking at doing. But I will be keeping enough "strut tower" to give the fenders and such to bolt to.
A full tube chassis is an option also. Anyone have any info on that (for a thirdgen of course).
A full tube chassis is an option also. Anyone have any info on that (for a thirdgen of course).
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Front suspension re-design
I don't think you'll be able to keep any strut tower at all and still have room for an upper control arm.
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iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 266
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: t-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 4th gen 10 bolt
Re: Front suspension re-design
I might not even need the strut towers the more I think about it. The fenders actually bolt to another piece that extends from the firewall. I could always brace everything to the new frame rails.
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