so i installed my Ground Control Weight Jacks, a few months ago, and i have a problem, i can't keep the rear springs properly seated, they are a few inches shorter than the stock springs , but the konis still have the same ampount of travel, so when the rear is hanging the rear springs have a few inches of gap between the chasis and the top of the spring.

so what can u do to limit rear droop, i was thniking about cutting out the mount and moving/fabricating them higher up in the chasis. will this effect the konis performance, will it take it out of its sweet spot? i thought i remeber reading that the konis are made for raised/lowered cars, so this shouldn't hurt performance, right?


i was also thinking of somehow using straps to wrap around the axle and tie into the chasis, but it doesn't look easy to find a place to mount the strap on to the chasis.

anyone have any ideas?? Scott

 

Sounds like you need the same thing as drag racers use on the front suspension. Common for them to install cables to limit the amount of droop.

How short are your 200s & where do you have the adjuster set at? Curious, because I have a set of rears to go in my GTA & ondering if I'm gonna have droop problems too.

I assume they don't fall out while driving? Only when jacking the rear of car up?

 

i dont know.

this is the same reason why i got rid of my sportlines a while back, the rear springs were shorter than stock and would fall out at full droop. I dont think there will ever be a time when you are driving tht the rear will reach full droop, other than flying off a cliff, but i just didnt like it. I would find a set of taller springs.

As for travel limiters, i have seem nylon straps fromt the rear lower control arm to the chassis, probably to a bracket added to the swaybar mount bolts?

 

Hey... thanks for the responses......
they stay put while driving around town, but when turning into drivaways that are raised above the road, if i take it at an angle, to avoid scrapping, the the outside rear tire will lift off the ground and the car will teeter totter and allow the spring to un-seat its self, not fall out but still move around a little. i do feel safe driving around , i just hate the ride height changing everytime i jack the car or go over some tall driveways.

the spring length is 9" the adjuster is set 2/3 of it's lowest setting, and i'm using the stock spring isolaters, i will be removing them in favor off heater hose, so i can have a little more adjustment. the ride height in the rear right now, is probabaly close to that with the sportlines, i still plan on goin lower after i get the new 18" C6's on


thanks for the ideas, i was really hoping to not have to cut up my shock mounts, the nylon strap idead is kinda what i'm shooting for, so anyone know who has them, or knows where to get them,

 

what? why would you cut the shock mounts?

 

Do you have a problem with this while driving? Or does it only do it when you jack the car up? My rear springs sometimes fall out if I jack up the car (ProKit, no isolators). I don't see it as a problem- anything you do to fix it is just more noise/weight.... JMO

 

i was thinking of cutting the shock mounts to move the shocks higher up, thus limiting the travel. a last resort kinda thing, but i hate to mangle the car if i don't need to.

when i go up bad inclines at and angle the outside wheel will lift off the ground, they don;t fall out, but after some bad dips or steep driveways, sometimes the rear will be sitting 1/2" higher than normal, and after a little more driving the springs tend to settle back in and the ride height goes back to normal.


right now i'm massaging my front wheel wells to clear the new 18's, then i'm going to re adjust the ride height and check for rubbing.


Scott

 

What about putting a steel plate (to strengthen the body mount side, like a roll cage mounting plate) inside the car, but under the carpet, where the springs set.....Run a braided steel cable straight down the center of the springs, then looped/attached to the spring seats?

Obviously you've hafta make it long enough to allow some suspension travel downwards, but short enough to keep the springs seated.

That way, the cable kinda stayed hidden, but still 100% functional & could be unattached, from underneath, to fully drop the axle when needed.

 

You would need to move the mount downward to use the shock to limit travel.

 

how would lowering the shock's mounting point raise the shock?????

 

now thats a good idea. my main concern is finding a good strong spot on the chasis to mount a supoport bracket, there isn't too much room underneathe the car to mount a support, but straight throught the spring where it has a striaght shot with nothing in the way, i think this is what i will be looking into duing. thanks Stephen,


i got the 18's on last night with the 265 40 18 fronts and 275 40 18 rears, 2.25" spacer up front and 2" in rear. the handling/cornering improvement was incredible, to say the least

i have the cars ride height set with about 1 fingers gap between tire and the wheel well, i have a little rubbing at full lock, nothing a BFH can't handle this weekend, after i do a little more massaging, i'm going to drop it another 1/4- 1/2"



-Scott

 

It won't.

Visualize the shock at full extension. With the mount higher, the axle will lower. But at full extension, by lowering the hock mounting bracket, you will have raised the axle at that point.

 

You'd need to move the mounts DOWN, not up, to use the shocks as a limiter. But "abusing" the shocks that way/Using them as limiters would be a bad thing to do. (to the shocks)

 

you know i'm talking about the chasis side mount and not the axle side mount right??

 

Nope. I was thinking axle side.

Not sure if a raised shock mount inside, would interfere with the seats though. Without any rear seats, it would be a moot point, huh?

 

no back seats = no problem one of the first things i did to the car was pull the back seats, theres not enough room to comfortably cary more than 2 adults. so i pulled them to keep people out of the back.

but the cable through the chasis/springs sounds better than cutting everything up

scott

 

No no no.

Simple solution that has ben done for years and mentioned already- get strap limiters.

you can go to any offraos shop, they usually have many lengths in stock.
They are inexpensive, light weight, and designed for this very purpose. Do not hack the cars mount points, you change the geomerty plus as someone stated you do un the risk of over extending the shock and damaging it. A shock should never be used as a travel limiter.

Simply unbolt the shock out of the car, slip the strap over the top I-bolt and remount the top mount into the car. I would slip it under the urethane bushing kit, not in between it. Pull everything off the I-bolt section then slip the limiter strap on, next the bottom cup washer and bushing- slip the shock back up through and replace the top bushing and top cup washer then nuts. Next jsack the axle up and mount the bottom of the shock and limiter strap together there. You are done. Just have to figure for the correct length limiter strap- thy come in 1/2" lengths just like your shoes do.

 

You raise the upper mount or lower the lower mount. Its not about raising the shock, its about widening the travel. The shock has a specific travel which doesnt change, increasing the travel brings the mounts closer together in the end

How do you think factory rear axles are limited? They do fall right out when the shocks are removed

In short, move the mounts and use the shocks as limiters or get a set of straps/cables

Either will work