EDIT: Pics added at the end, showing the wheel well cuts.

Completely under the fenders, no spacers, 17" x 11" - 7" bs, on my stock 9-bolt.....Yes. 7" backspacing was pretty greedy of me, but worth it!


1. I used UMI Performance Rod Ended tubular LCAs, with the offset bushings, for the tires to clear the LCAs.

2. The bumpstops are completely cut out, as well as the outer layer of that big "bulge" above them.

3. I had to cut out some of the front inner lip, where the inner panels come together. And then BEAT THE CRAP out of the front section (inwards), to stop tire rub.

AND......Let's not forget the e-brake cables!

4. Passenger side was easy. Just unbolted the retaining loop to the rear subframe & rerouted the cable behind the swaybar end link. On the drivers side, I had to notch the caliper bracket for the e-brake (top & bottom) then bend the bracket inwards, to stop it from rubbing the inside of the wheel.

But they are on, do not rub & help some with traction. My 200,000 mile, 225hp (brand new) L98 can still light even the 315s up! Sure can feel this hook up. I wanna get a video of it launching. Judging by my small test, the tires don't lift, but the front end sure comes up!

nice!!! now just trade those in for some 335!

Those have all of 2 miles on them.....335s will come when these wear out.

But I'll hafta beat the inner panel in even more. OH WELL!

its cool man , ill just stop by and wear em out for ya
i mean.....

looks good stephen, they sit right about where i would like to see them. Good job, have you driven the car yet? see if they rub while turning at all

7" of BS, please, try fitting 8.5"

8.5" would most definately require a tub of some kind & a 4-link?. Not sure if just a mini tub would clear that!

My fronts are still the stock 5" bs. Never rubbed from day 1, with the 275s.

On the rear, with the offset LCAs for clearance & the solidness of the rod ends (PHB & LCAs) , the rears doesn't move side to side any.

The LCA rod ends (i suspect is the "culprit") makes for some definite clunking over road irregularities. Not looking forward to hitting rail road crossings at 60mph!

sure it does, its actually what im running, with a minitub and some other custom doo-dads.

What tires are you using? Have any pics of the inner wheel wells?

hehe... sweet. Looks great.
this makes me wanna try the 305/30R18s all around even more.

Summitomo 315/35s & I have taken any pics yet, because I haven't welded it shut yet.

I wanted to test drive it first & check for any rubbing, before I bothered welding. It would suck to weld it, then find out I had to cut it up again & re-weld it all over.

305s would be easier & WAY easier, if you don't get greedy on the bs, like I did, to fit on stock style suspension & minimal sheetmetal work (which turned out to be not-so-quite minimal!

From what I looked at, the 305 tire selection is alot better on the 18s as well. The fun part would be getting the backspacing and stuff right on the front. A little less common knowledge and more to hit up there.

The extra half inch in diameter isn't gonna make that much of a difference in the rear. And by pulling the wheel out even a half inch (less bs), would help.

305/18 is not a common size is it? i have only seen one or two tires with that size. 295's have shatloads

I know the difference in diameter wouldn't have a large effect on fitment, I was reffering to getting everything to clear up front for turning lock to lock.

Yeah, my bad. 315/30s- 12 tires, 305/30- 4 tires, 295/35- 21. My head wasn't in gear.

Can you repost those pictures Stephen? They're showing the Photobucket "The images have been moved or deleted."

I did a lot of "house cleaning" in my Photobucket & didn't realize this thread was gonna be affected.

Pics now fixed, in the original Post.

Awesome...you think if I put the ASA's or ADR's in the same position i'll be able to get them to fit? Do you have pictures of the beating/cutting you did??

No pics yet. It still isn't welded shut yet. Really sucks trying to weld, laying on your side on the ground. Gonna take it to where I can borrow a lift & weld it then.

Oh....Get the BS right & you can do anything. I just wish the centers were further back. I'd love to have a deeper dish. Deeper wheels, are the only thing that will get me to switch away from my Snypers.

Thats a pretty good lookin rear end u got there.

You got any pics from the side, its making me think i should go with 315s

I didn't, but now I do, thanks to the wonderful age of digital cameras!

Side view is no different than with the 285s I had, other than maybe the height difference of new tires sidewalls vs worn out tires sidewalls. Looks no different to me, since the wheels sit exactly where they did before.

Thanks for the pic, u'vre gotta nice lookin ride there
any new pics u get psot em i wouldnt mind seeing them

Looks good.....now fix the mirror.

My mirrors aren't broke.....

please post a pic of the wheelwells with the wheels and tires removed?

I'll get pics, when it is fully welded & finished.

TIA.

In your pics, one is a third gen and the other is a forth. Maybe you like it that way. lol

I figured that ia what you meant, but I wasn't gonna point them out. Thanks for pointing it out to everyone to see!

A deer took out my passenger side, so I put that one on & haven't done the other side.
Pics during the mirror Install

You know where the bumpstop is, above the axle? That has to be cut out. (below the red square)

The the red boxed area above that, has to come out. It is 2 layers & only the top layer is a bump. Just cut out the top layer.



Sorry, no pic for this step, but just weld in a new flat plate to bring it back to 2 layers, but flat.

I also had to trim where the back of the forward-most part of the tire rubbed the inner fender. The sledgehammer couldn't move it far enough, so I had to break out the cutting wheel, that I used on the bumpstop.

So it took an adjustable PHB.....Offset tubular LCAs.....And body cutting. All easy stuff really.

I was cutting, test fitting the wheel...cutting, test fitting, cutting, test fitting, cutting.........You get the picture. Now I know just to CUT. 1st side took all day......I did my 2nd side in 1 shot!

I'm glad to see the pics, but now it seems really dumb that GM put the bulge in there.

The rubber bump stop is directly below it, so I'd suspect it was designed for structural strength, in case of the axle hitting the bump stop hard.

Without it now, my axle would shove right up into the rear "subframe".

nice job!!
I bet I can fit 8.5 bs on 11"x18s with no tub on my 4th gen rear

I haven't looked under my car in a while to see where everything is located and what not, but can't you just weld in the bumpstop on the other side of the "frame" section, or is it too close to the spring then? If it is, what about putting it directly below the "frame?" I'm just thinking out loud...

I suspect there wouldn't be room, but I dunno FOR SURE.

I have yet to have the axle hit the rear subframe any, but of course, I also don't go 4 wheeling or jumping curbs with it.

Good info, I'm looking to go with 315/45 on my 16 inch rims. I'm having my rear stock 16x8s widen to about 10.5. My car isn't lowered either. Maybe that'll make a difference on fitting. The fit of ur tires is perfect. But I'm not sure of the back spacing. Anyone know any good places that'll widen rims? Or maybe that make replica's?

I used Wheels America who have offices nationwide. They even one in New York for you! Wheels America - New York. Same price for adding 1"'-3", per wheel, to the inside. They can suply the donor wheel, or you can for a little less $.

Where are you going to find a 315/45 16"" tire? The widest street tire I know of is the BFG 295/50HR16. Not even sure if there are any wider soft compound 16" tires anymore.

295 50 16 is a pretty tall tire. It will affect your speedo accuracy.

315/45/16 MT et streets and it 27 inchs tall

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3795R/

I'd hazard a guess that your axle will never hit the frame because your shocks will bottom out first, which will likely destroy them. Running without any bumpstops of any kind is not a very wise idea IMO simply because of the risk of damaging expensive shocks. Just my

what kind of wheels are those?

Look back a the post that you quoted & read my sig.....

So quick question i have some 17x11 with 315x35x17 michelin pilot sports and they are zr1 rims with 7.93 inch backspacing. So are you using a spacer or did you just get ones with 7 inch backspacing?



Thanks


Matt


How is the ride with these larger tires?

You apparently didn't read much. Even my sig says most of what you asked.

Custom widened wheels, no spacers, lots of inner fender "massaging".

And the ride is fine to me, even without bushings in the LCAs or PHB.

Well I was just wondering because the 50mm offset is 7.93 backspacing and with a 1.25 inch spacer that i have it would make the backspacing be 6.75 on a 17x11 wheel but yours tuck under alot nicer than mine do. Its on a 92 camaro.

Wheels look great. Did you move the bumpstops or do the shocks stop before they hit the bumpstops i saw that you cut them out did you move them or are they just no longer there?


Matt

My bumpstops are completely cut out, the area in the front of them got a good deal of cutting & sledgehammer work & the are area behind them got some but much less cutting was needed. There is 1 single wall of metal right there, plus 1 sheet comes the front 1 sheet comes from the back, making it 3 layers right where the bumpstop is & 2 layers before it & 2 layers behind it. I totally cut out the 2 overlapping layers plus a bit more, but the 1 wall that runs front to back is still there. I intended to weld in some replacement metal, but never have. And that was almost a year ago & no structural loss yet. But I also don't drag, autocross or road race the car, so there are no extra forces like that pushing & pulling on it.

With a 4th gen rear end, there would be virtually no cutting & no spacers need for you. I'm still considering going that route, but not sure that I really want my wheels to sit that much farther out. I think threy'd end end up virtually flush with the top of the fender lip, if not even sticking out almost 1".

If I could find a set of the Japanese flares, I'd sooooo go for that.

you guys have any pics of the spacers your using? how much do you guys trust the spacers with a good amount of power? the 50mm (7.93") with 1.25" adapter 5x4.75 to 5x5 lug makes 6.68"BS and this woud workout about perfect for my truck.

If you see a 3rd gen with 4th gen or Corvette wheels, it has spacer adapters in the front.

For the rear, they have the spacer adapters if they still have a 3rd gen rear axle, or they can swap to a 4th gen axle & not need spacer adapters on the rear.

Any pictures of this?

Yeah.....
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/hist...ort-japan.html

I found Universal Flares, but I'm not willing to experiment for $160+shipping, based on a small internet pic.

http://www.corvetteguys.com/wheels-tires-fitment.html


Good link for backspacing specs of corvette wheels.