Aftermarket Proportioning Valves
Aftermarket Proportioning Valves
Has anyone used one of these aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves? I am looking at one of the Wilwood units. I am curious about how I would connect to my stock set up.
My thoughts are this...I believe the stock valve simplt acts as a splitter for the front brakes, and limits the pressure to the rear. So, can I simply plug the holes in the stock unit for the rear and run those lines through the adjustable unit?
I am looking at this since I have converted my 91 RS to rear disc. I am getting the correct master cylinder, but the dealer wants $90 for the valve. The adjustable Wilwood unit is only $40 from Jegs, plus it is tunable.
Any help is appreciated.
------------------
Robert Scott
1991 Camaro RS 350
Best E.T. 13.89 @ 99.4 mph
[This message has been edited by 91RS350 (edited September 18, 2000).]
My thoughts are this...I believe the stock valve simplt acts as a splitter for the front brakes, and limits the pressure to the rear. So, can I simply plug the holes in the stock unit for the rear and run those lines through the adjustable unit?
I am looking at this since I have converted my 91 RS to rear disc. I am getting the correct master cylinder, but the dealer wants $90 for the valve. The adjustable Wilwood unit is only $40 from Jegs, plus it is tunable.
Any help is appreciated.
------------------
Robert Scott
1991 Camaro RS 350
Best E.T. 13.89 @ 99.4 mph
[This message has been edited by 91RS350 (edited September 18, 2000).]
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 954
Likes: 1
From: Annandale, VA
Car: 1991 Formula Firebird
Engine: 2001 LS1 Modded
Transmission: 2001 4L60E Yank SS3600 TC
In my opinion you are better off with the factory unit. Although it's not adjustable, you will save yourself the headaches or trying to get it right. Also, you do not have to re route any of the break lines. Lastly, I believe you have to buy the mounting kit seperately for an aftermarket unit.
Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: CT
Car: 1989 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: WC T-5
I woild go the route of an adjustable. I am in the prosess of completing that mod now. The stock valve has been known to not allow enough pressure to the rear and makes for poor rear brake power. I have done a lot of research into this and it seems to be a common problem. Also, you are correct. You can just send pressure directly to the front brakes without a valve, just a splitter. I believe there is an article in the tech section that will explain the procedure in detail. Good luck.
91
I installed an adjustable prop valve in my,,,,ahem, let's say non GM vehicle, when I converted it from drum brakes to front discs. Obviously, this is an "older" vehicle. Joking aside, I was pleased with it's performance, it being a Kelsey-Hayes unit that had 10 turn adjustability. Here's a little trick I used to dial in the setting. I waited until the streets were wet from rain, you know the worst case, when the streets are wet, but the rain isn't really falling. I made low speed, hard stops, & dialed in the valve to a level of rear wheel lockup that was controlable & tolerable. My perception was that I've probably got more rear brake dialed in then a factory valve would allow. This resulted in optimized dry weather stopping in my application.
Regards, FJK
I installed an adjustable prop valve in my,,,,ahem, let's say non GM vehicle, when I converted it from drum brakes to front discs. Obviously, this is an "older" vehicle. Joking aside, I was pleased with it's performance, it being a Kelsey-Hayes unit that had 10 turn adjustability. Here's a little trick I used to dial in the setting. I waited until the streets were wet from rain, you know the worst case, when the streets are wet, but the rain isn't really falling. I made low speed, hard stops, & dialed in the valve to a level of rear wheel lockup that was controlable & tolerable. My perception was that I've probably got more rear brake dialed in then a factory valve would allow. This resulted in optimized dry weather stopping in my application.
Regards, FJK
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,838
Likes: 4
From: Another world, some other time
Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Like FJK said. But being in AZ, it seems to never rain. If you can't wait for a wet road, try a dirt road.
------------------
-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 9/18/00)
There can be only one!!
------------------
-Justin-
T-Top '86 5.0L LG4 700R4 WS6 Now Bilstein equipped!
T-Top '92 5.0L TBI 700R4
My '86 Firebird Homepage
The F-body Model Kit Pictoral Archive (updated 9/18/00)
There can be only one!!
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Your 91 RS has the same proportioning valve as the rear disc cars already. If you want to improve the braking I recommend using a Stewart Components LBS (Lock-resistant Braking System). I bought it and will be installing it when my 9-bolt posi is finished being rebuilt. stewartcomponents.com
Good Luck, Lon.
Good Luck, Lon.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hotrodboba400
Firebirds for Sale
3
Dec 10, 2019 07:07 PM






