Ok i started changing the rear brake pads today, but now i can't get the piston pushed back in far enough to fit over the new pads. It seems that the emergency brake set up is some how interfering with it. My E-brake doesn't even work, i can't pull the handle on the console back more the half way. Is my caliper junk or should i dump the e-brake, i am out of ideas.

 

Changing the rear brake pads is tricky and a PITA.

If I remember correctly, you have to remove the braket that fits over the hex nut on the back side of the caliper. I believe that you have to turn this nut to get the cylinder to move back into the caliper.

It is not the same as the front end because of the E-brake stuff. On the front you just use a clamp to push the cylinder back, but on the rear there is a screw type device which works with the E-brake. Look at it very carefully, its definately a tedious job.



------------------
'87 L98 TPI IROCZ, AFR190 heads, 3.70 gears, ZZ9 cam, 2400 Art Carr TC, SLP 1 3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, no cat, no AC, no MAF screens, Accel manifold base & SuperRam, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, MSD ext coil & distributor, trans cooler, 52mm TB with airfoil, TB coolant bypass, AFPR(48psi), K&N filters, Hotchkis lowering springs, Car-Pro custom chip, Lay Ind. ram air kit, 265/45R16 Kumho V700 tires.
ET 13.39sec @ 107.21mph
'90 Eagle Talon AWD, no rust thru 9 winters
'99 Camaro SS, red, 6-spd, T-tops, Mcleod clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, MAF processor, Direct Flow airlid, K&N filter.
313.7Hp & 320.6ft-lbf, ET 13.55sec @ 105.1mph
next mod: 4.10 rear gears

 

Doc, I remember my GM manual showing a c-clamp being used to force the piston in. The c-clamp shouldn't be placed over that rear screw you're talking about, though. And yeah you have to remove the "parking brake lever" from the back of the caliper.

I didn't quite go about it this way when I re-did my brakes; I rebuilt one caliper, and used the other as a core. I can say tho NOT to start moving the parking brake lever back & forth- that'll work the piston out of the bore. That's good for rebuilding a caliper, not so good for a brake job.

The Haynes 82-92 Firebird or Camaro manuals show how to take care of the rear calipers & pads, and almost "copy" the GM manual's procedures.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

I am not to sure but I don't think you are suppose to force the piston back in, what calipers do you have, if they are pre 88 I think you are supose to lossen the e-brake screw in the back of the calipe. I am not to sure though.

------------------
86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.

 

The piston has to be rotated while pushing it back in. That's how the e-brake adjusts. I guess if you remove the screw and arm it'll spin freely.

 

ok thanks, i got one side done so far hehe. By the way it is a 89 iroc, and no i didn't try pulling on the e-brake with the brakes apart, i meant with everything together and drivable, i couldn't pull the e-brake handle back more then halfway. Sorry for the little confusion there.