Please help: Rear suspension or unibody?
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 270
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From: Phila. suburbs, PA, USA
Car: Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
Engine: 3.8L V6 SuperCharged
Please help: Rear suspension or unibody?
Hello,
I don't know much about suspension, but here is my question. When I look at my car from directly behind it on a level surface, the right rear of the car is jacked up higher than the other side, with no extra weight in the car. Is it possible that the rear suspension is preloaded more on one side even though the shocks and everything else are identical on both sides? Or is it most likely my unibody that is twisted. I do have a 350 in a t-top car, but I just got my spohn subframes that will go in soon, but I really don't want to pay to get my frame measured for straightness if it is fine, even though I might end up having to. I have my interior out right now, so I don't think getting to the top of the rear shocks would be a problem, if that is how you adjust them (if you even can do that). Thanks for any help in advance,
John
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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings
I don't know much about suspension, but here is my question. When I look at my car from directly behind it on a level surface, the right rear of the car is jacked up higher than the other side, with no extra weight in the car. Is it possible that the rear suspension is preloaded more on one side even though the shocks and everything else are identical on both sides? Or is it most likely my unibody that is twisted. I do have a 350 in a t-top car, but I just got my spohn subframes that will go in soon, but I really don't want to pay to get my frame measured for straightness if it is fine, even though I might end up having to. I have my interior out right now, so I don't think getting to the top of the rear shocks would be a problem, if that is how you adjust them (if you even can do that). Thanks for any help in advance,
John
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84 Firebird with Trans am ground effects- 350 4bbl GM crate motor (LM1), T-Tops, automatic, K&N filter, 180* thermostat, ram-air hood scoop, flowmaster muffler, Accel cap & rotor, MSD Super Conductor Wires. Coming soon: new interior (grey), rear end work, subframe connectors, polyurethane bushings
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
It could be as easy as one bad shock.. are those the original '84 units? Or it could be that one of your upper shock bolts has busted through the thin unibody metal. Man, what a stupid design! GM should've beefed that spot up. Both of mine fatigued and cracked through- but I run air shocks in the back. I bolted 1/4" of steel up there, and they've been fine since.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 270
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From: Phila. suburbs, PA, USA
Car: Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
Engine: 3.8L V6 SuperCharged
Thanks, Tom I'll take a closer look at the mounting area, but I beleive they're OK. I don't know for sure, but I think both shocks were replaced at the same time by the previous owner (not too long ago). How often do they go bad? Anyone else have any ideas?
John
John
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Shocks don't control ride height. The springs do.
Factory springs are only good for about 80k miles or about 8 years, whichever comes first. When the metal fatigues they lose their tension and the car sags at that corner. The fronts (60% or more of the total car weight) are usually the culprit, unless the car has been wrecked and the floor pan is no longer flat. Obviously it's impossible to have a flat stiff square thing, and have only one corner off of level; so more often than not, the front sags, the car leans to one side, and the rear is of course tilted the same direction.
Replace your springs, you won't believe the difference.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Factory springs are only good for about 80k miles or about 8 years, whichever comes first. When the metal fatigues they lose their tension and the car sags at that corner. The fronts (60% or more of the total car weight) are usually the culprit, unless the car has been wrecked and the floor pan is no longer flat. Obviously it's impossible to have a flat stiff square thing, and have only one corner off of level; so more often than not, the front sags, the car leans to one side, and the rear is of course tilted the same direction.
Replace your springs, you won't believe the difference.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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