Torque arm
Torque arm
I have been doing some research on Torque arms and up untill just the other day I was thinking the Spohn torque arms were the best thing known to man, the way it changed the mount from the transmision to the entire transmission mounting bracket. Then I looked at BMR's web site and was totally not impressed about their torque arm,....untill I panned down a little more and saw the high horsepower bracket that mounts to the subframe connecters. Is there any bad affects to this because they say the torque arm is shorter. This transfers the torque to the enitire frame to me this is the best way even without having alot of horsepower. I am only pushing about 450hp but I might be leaning towards the BMR unit. Any thoughts on this I would appreciate it. Oh yeah the only bad part is its all weld in but no big deal.
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1992 383 Z-28 w/SuperRam intake and ACCEL DFI, PA Racing K frame,SS hood,SS rims
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1992 383 Z-28 w/SuperRam intake and ACCEL DFI, PA Racing K frame,SS hood,SS rims
Well, if you're a drag racer, both, the BMR arm, and the Spohn arm will work.
The BMR is shorter, which will increase it's effect on the rear axle. Both units feed the torque into the floor, just in different spots.
If your not a drag racer, and you actually need to TURN, The Spohn unit has a telescopic front joint that not only allows front -> back motion in the arm, but also allows the axle to tilt (relative to the body) freely. The BMR arm has no provision for lateral rotation of the axle and will bind.
Of course, if you have solid polyurathane bushed LCAs, the BMR arm won't add much more bind than you already have.
Hope it helps...
CPCamaro
The BMR is shorter, which will increase it's effect on the rear axle. Both units feed the torque into the floor, just in different spots.
If your not a drag racer, and you actually need to TURN, The Spohn unit has a telescopic front joint that not only allows front -> back motion in the arm, but also allows the axle to tilt (relative to the body) freely. The BMR arm has no provision for lateral rotation of the axle and will bind.
Of course, if you have solid polyurathane bushed LCAs, the BMR arm won't add much more bind than you already have.
Hope it helps...
CPCamaro
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by QwkTrip:
I thought I would add that is a great solid answer. </font>
I thought I would add that is a great solid answer. </font>
If you want my .02 than try global west
http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#TRACLINK%20kits
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92 Z28 5.7 TPI AUTO 105k factory motor and trans.
SLP headers and runners, B&M 2400 stall, shift kit,LCA brackets, EIBACH spring kit, NITTO'S, N.O.S.
best 60ft 1.84 1/4 12.48 @ 110.81
http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#TRACLINK%20kits
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92 Z28 5.7 TPI AUTO 105k factory motor and trans.
SLP headers and runners, B&M 2400 stall, shift kit,LCA brackets, EIBACH spring kit, NITTO'S, N.O.S.
best 60ft 1.84 1/4 12.48 @ 110.81
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,268
Likes: 169
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I use the Spohn arm in my race car with no problems. Personally I like the idea of a longer arm. Think of it as a single 4 foot ladder bar. The way ladder bars work is when the axle rotates when under torque, the ladder bar pushes up on the inderside of the car forcing the front of the car up to better transfer weight. Trouble with ladder bars is that they are usually only 33" long and they attach to a crossmember between frame rails or SFC. With the longer torque arm, that upward force is directed farther ahead in the body.
There's a bunch of mathematical formulas to determin the best position of the mount. That's why 4-link suspensions are so popular. They are like a ladder bar but without the long bars. The angles of the bars run to a theoretical center of gravity of the car applying force to that point. That point could be inside the car. A ladder bar or torque arm focal point will always be under the car.
There's also more differences between the torque arm, ladder bar and 4 link systems. Ladder bars are not designed for street use since they bind when wheels go over bumps. A 4-link is the best setup and the torque arm is a cross between the other 2. Sort of a 3 link system.
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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
There's a bunch of mathematical formulas to determin the best position of the mount. That's why 4-link suspensions are so popular. They are like a ladder bar but without the long bars. The angles of the bars run to a theoretical center of gravity of the car applying force to that point. That point could be inside the car. A ladder bar or torque arm focal point will always be under the car.
There's also more differences between the torque arm, ladder bar and 4 link systems. Ladder bars are not designed for street use since they bind when wheels go over bumps. A 4-link is the best setup and the torque arm is a cross between the other 2. Sort of a 3 link system.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
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