I need some help changing the ball joints on my IROC. How exactly do I do it? The Haynes manual says I need a ball joint separator tool to dislodge the ball joint from the spindle, but it seems like a pry bar will do the job just as easily.

How do I remove the ball joint from the lower A arm? From what I remember, the ball joint has a nut at only one end. The other end seems like it fits snugly into the A arm. If so, do I need a special puller and installation tool for this. Thanks in advance

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Freshly converted to 5 speed
Gutted airboxes
180 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel (gotta luv it)
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler (puke)
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor
Ported plenum
Throttle body bypass
Kills: '94 Z28, Olds Aurora V8, bunch of Mustangs, T-birds, ricers, and others who assumed a 13 year-old car would be too slow.

 

You can beat the ball joint out of the A-arm pretty easily with a small sledgehammer and a piece of tubing,but I don't recommend putting the new ones in that way.
Harbor Freight sells a ball-joint removal/installation tool for about $40.
It's probably made in China, but it works pretty good.It's basically a C-Clamp with a couple spacers and adapters,they also have a kit that adds about 20 more pieces for another $30.If you plan on doing this more than once, it's worth the money to buy the tool.I also used mine for removing and installing the A-Arm bushings!
If you're only going to do it once, you might
just see about renting something like it.
Snap-On sells something that looks just like it,(but I'm sure it's of much better quality) but it costs a fortune.(like $300+)
http://www.harborfreight.com/

Hope this helps-
-Rich-

 

this is a another BIG PITA job to do, you will need to get a pickel fork to bust the tie rods and spindle loose from the balljoints, to get the bottom ball joint out, i just whacked it a few times with a hammer and it poped out, but you WILL need a ball joint installation tool to get the new ones in.

 

You can rent the tool you need from most auto parts stores, some will loan them for free with a deposit like Auto Zone. You don't even have to buy the parts there. If you can separate them with a pry bar that's fine but the pickle fork is inexpensive and will work better.

Good Luck,

Ken

 

You will have a tough time with a prybar. With a small slege hammer, smack the spindle right beside the ball-joint. A couple hits will pop the ball-joint loose. That also works for the tie-rod--just smack the spindle right next to the tie-rod with the hammer. It will pop right out every time. The local Napa shop will press the ball-joints in and out of the control arm for a small charge near here. You might ask around.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro