Anyone else have a problem with rotors warping? My 89 RS eats rotors like there going out of style.
A couple of months ago I changed everything from the Master cylinder, proportioning valve, wheel cylinders, and calipers. I also was using those shields that keep the dust off the wheel. I took them off thinking that they were retaining heat. The rotors lasted a little longer this time but Im running out of options here. I cant think of anything else that can be causing this. I flush my braking system once a year with a phoenix injector kit and use synthetic DOT3 fluid.
Any help is appreciated. The next step is changing all the lines. Thanks-Rock

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John-1989 Bright Blue Metallic LO3 RS.Hotchkis control arms and Panhard rod,Competition Engineering SFC,Energy 1.5" lowering springs,Accel 300+ Digital Ignition,March Power and Amp series pulleys,K&N open element filter,homemade 1/2" TBI spacer,Edelbrock TBI Performer intake,Crane 1.5" Roller rockers, Cloyes full roller timing chain,Edelbrock TES headers,3" Flowmaster w/o cat,160 degree stat & switch,B&M Trans cooler,B&M shift kit w/Corvette servo,B&M Megashifter,Weld 16" Cyclones. Best ET 15.80@88mph

 

using semi metallic brake pads will wear out brake rotors much faster then a organic, also could just be how you drive you might be just jabbing the brakes when you stop insted of easing them on.

 

did you replace the rotors or had the cut ??????

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89 Formula
96 Impala SS

 

rotors cooling unevenly is what warps them.
The three common causes of uneven cooling are in order as follows:

1. Getting the rotor exessively hot and then just stopping/parking and letting the rotors cool without moving. The rotor cools well (but slowly) everywhere but between the brake pads, where they stay hot because there is no airflow here and the pads insulate them retaining heat = uneven rotor cooling. After working the brakes hard drive moderately for a while before stopping/parking to allow the rotors to turn while cooling so they cool evenly and quickly. Driving without hard braking will cool hot rotors faster than just sitting still because the rotors pump air through themselves while spinning.

2. Getting the rotor hot and splashing water on part of the rotor. This causes nearly instant uneven cooling. The water can be from a puddle splash, or maybe washing the car. Any way a relatively large amount of water hits part of a hot rotor, it = uneven cooling.

3. some of the cooling vanes inside of the rotor/s may be clogged with mud/something.
The cooling vanes are where 90% of the air that cools the rotor comes from. Basicly they work somewhat like the impeller in a centrifugal supercharger, pumping air from the center of the rotor through the inside of the rotor and out at the outer circumference of the rotor. If mud, rust, grass, turkey stuffing or who knows what plugs the air passages between the vanes it will lead to uneven cooling.


Thinner metal on the pad mating surface of rotors will warp easier than thicker metal. So cheaper rotors that may be thinner could warp easier. They also could be made of poor quality material that could warp more easily. Rotors that have been turned excessively can warp easier too.