Most of my suspension bushings look completely shot, they appear to be smashed and goo hanging out of them, next summer I want this to be my first project.. is this a good kit for this or are there better?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Energy+Suspens...8131R/10002/-1

 

Let me throw this at you ....

If your car has not had any suspension work done to it, you should seriously consider replacing components as well as bushings - especially since you have to remove the components to replace the bushings anyway.

For instance - does no good to put a new tie rod end boot on an old tie rod. Since you are waiting until spring anyway, save up some more cash, and do it all at one time. I'd do it all at once if possible - making a weekend out of it. Cant do control arm bushings without removing control arms, which means removing coil springs, and the like.

If you can swing it, I'd replace springs, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, centerlink, idler arm, sway bar bushings and endlinks in front, and springs, shocks, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and endlinks in rear. Wouldn't bother replacing panhard bar bushings - just get new panhard bar with bushings already in place.

I wouldn't replace tranny mount with poly unless you don't mind some vibration in the cabin - most folks complain about the vibration when they replace stock rubber tranny mount with a poly one. Same for motor mounts. I used poly all around including motor mounts and tranny mount as well as torque arm, but I don't mind the vibration. That kit you linked will have tranny mount, but not motor or torque arm mount.

If you can't swing it all at once, then I'd say do basics first. Skip the kit and buy the basic pieces individually - the kit doesn't save you that much. Basics would be from most needed to least needed ...

1) tie rod ends and ball joints (skipping the poly boots for them as there's no real gain there what they come with is fine), 2) shocks/struts, 3) springs, 4) sway bar bushings and endlinks

Shocks/struts are the most expensive part, springs next. Sway Bar bushings can be ordered at local AZ or Advance - you have to measure the diameter of your sway bar AFTER it's been cleaned well and at the point where the bushing holds it. End Links are available on the shelf at AZ or Advance (same Energy Suspension ones). I personally like the NAPA ball joints, tie rods ends, etc. - they have 2 part numbers, the more expensive part number is really nice beefy stuff.

If all you want to tackle is the bushings, then just get sway bar and endlinks - again skipping the kit and just buy off the shelf. Then when you have more time/cash the rest can be done. Like I said, to do control arm bushings means you have to remove the strut, the coil spring, the ball joint, tie rod end, etc. - so your wasting cash on the kit until you have the time/cash to replace all that (since it all has to come out).

But the ES stuff is the most popular and many here use it. Since I did mine in stages as well, I ended up with some ES stuff and some Prothane stuff, but basically the same.

It will make a world of difference. My car handles so much better with all new stuff.

Oh, and one other thing, if you don't have the wonderbar, get it! It's the single most noticeable difference in handling there is - either snag one off a JY IROC or order the one from TDS - all 3rd gens should have had one from factory, and I'm surprised there are any left on the road without one.

You also want to consider your future intentions. If you are planning much in performance later down the road, you'll want to get larger sway bars than stock, so you'll need to snag larger JY sway bars BEFORE you buy bushings, otherwise you'll be rebuying new bushings again later.

Hope all that makes sense - Good Luck!

 

Yea that sounds good, a whole bunch of good info. Thanks

 

Im trying to decide what I want to do, either start working on the engine, adding little thigs like cai and whanot or start working on the suspension. I like the idea of workin on the engine because then i'll be "goin fast" earlier.


But then I feel like I should work on platform mods first because it'll probaly save me more money in the end, and one of the first things I would like to do is replace the bushings but like mentioned its a bit wiser to replace the actual components along with the bushing while doing the job, but my worry is that I dont have enough mechanical skills to do so, and if im going to replace the suspension components, I feel its wiser to replace them with higher end, lighter weight pieces.

But I know this will cost me a pretty penny, also I dont have an lift and I definly dont think my back will agree with me laying on it under the car all week, im stuck on what I should do, opinions?

Also I should clear this up, why im so concered about suspension is currently the suspension is pretty bouncy feeling and something going on under neath there to, when you turn sharp you hear a sharp grinding and popping sound if you turn to sharp one of the ways (cant remember what way at the moment)

Also I will be driving the car hopefully on small to long cruises so I want her to be a little more comfy, im not expecting a cadillac like ride but just not so boucy and rough, but I also want her to be responsive to for those moments I decide I wanna shoot her around the curves (which wont be to often) Thanks.

 

OK - shocks will make the ride different - the rest is pretty much not going to be really felt like the shock/struts will be - so there's where your choice makes a real difference. You'll see alot of talk about Bilstein, Koni, etc. - expensive, but provides real performance feel. However, with that you give up the easy cruising comfort (like a Caddy) - that's going to be stock shocks/struts like KYB (except high end KYB), Monroe, etc. - so there's where YOUR preference comes in to play alot - shocks/struts will determine YOUR ride.

All suspension can be done in the driveway with a standard jack and a set of stands - jack front up and put on stands, taking jack out to use - I did all mine in the driveway in 7 hours, and I was completely alone (springs. struts, shocks, and all suspension), and I had never done it before, so you can do it no problem.

Remove Sway Bar endlinks and bushing covers first.

Tie rod ends, centerlink, idler arm, ball joints - those are pretty easy, ball joints being the biggest PITA - you need a press to get old out and new in - but the press is a "free" rental at most any auto parts store. It's not really rocket science, old ball joint out, new one in, all the while working and reworking the press to move them relatively straight in/out the holes. It does take patience, sometimes a big hammer, alot of choice expletives, and several 'walk away, take a deep breath' breaks.

Idler arm has 2 bolts to pass frame rail (easy), and a castle nut on the centerlink (loosen nut to top of the bolt and beat with hammer to 'knock' it out like a tie rod end). Then simply replace. Tie rod ends and centerlink should be taken out as a whole unit (beat out idler arm, beat outpitman arm, and beat out tie rods ends like described above). Then, remove as a unit, lay on driveway, and put new components together matching length of old unit, and replace - that way you are close to being aligned and can make it to the alignment shop without major tire wear.

If doing springs, you'll need a 3ft length of chain from hardware store, and a bolt long enough to go through the links - run chain through K-member and through the spring, and connect the chain to itself loosely (slack in chain) with the bolt - this safety tip keeps the spring from coming out of the car and taking your fool head off with it.

Then, place jack under A-arm and disconnect the strut from under the hood, slowly lower jack until the A-arm is all the way down - spring will still be in there, then take a large prybar and pry it out - it's going to "pop" loudly and scare you, but the chain keeps it in place.

You'll need a spring compressor to reinstall new springs if stock, maybe not if lowering springs - again a "free rental" at auto parts store. Make sure front springs are indexe3d correctly - the end of the coil on the bottom falls between two holes on the A-Arm. Use black electrical tape to tape the isolator (rubber ring) back to the top of the spring before reinstall to hold it in place. Install spring, jack A-Arm back up slowly making sure spring get pocketed properly and making sure the strut goes back up in the strut tower hole, and re4attach strut at the top, then let jack down.

If doing struts, then you can see where in the above steps you'd replace those.

Replace centerlink assembly, replace sway bar bushing and endlinks, pretty much done.

Front is much harder than rear. ONLy thing holding rear end in the car at all is the torque arm, shocks, panhard bar, and sway bar. Rear - just jack up car under the diff cover (pumpkin), and place stands under car frame rails just in front of the lower control arms. Remove sway bar and endlinks, and remove shocks from axle. Lower rear end slowly and slightly out from under car - watch the brake line on driver side make sure it doesn't get too stretched or breaks. Pull back carpet in trunk, remove foam pads, and remove top shock nuts, and let shocks fall out. Replace with new shocks, top first, then jacking rear up to help get them back onto axle. Replace sway bar bushings and endlinks, jacking rear up again to help.

You'll see where/when to do torque arm bushings and panhard rod if doing that. Torque arm is a big PITA too - you need to see which way the "lips" face on your torque arm, and get the right bushing for it if replacing. Remove torque arm from pumpkin, and pull to get it out of tranny mount, then replace the bushing at tranny, and push it back in - use a lubericant on the torque arm end, cuss alot, and beat forward with a hammer until you can get it back into the bushing far enough to reattach to the pumpkin. It's a PITA - takes alot of grunting and cussing because the new bushings are tighter, but you just have to work it.

I have no special tools, juts basics. My "big hammer" is a 5lb sledge head on a 12in handle - everything else most folks have in the tool box except maybe a few larger metric sockets for the torque arm and panhard rod bolts. PB Blaster is your friend, buy a can a week before the job, and spray every nut/bolt you think you'll be replacing everyday before the job to get them loosened.

If I can do it in the driveway all alone, anyone can. $20 of beer in a cooler will almost guarantee neihbors/friends to give a helping hand.

Oh - tranny mount - simply undo the single large nut and the two smaller nuts (with jack under tranny of course, and replace - takes maybe 30 minutes including jack/stand time.

Good luck!

 

Just remember that if you want to go faster.......you'll NEED to stop faster as well, otherwise bad things may happen.

Suspension upgrades will make your car more fun to drive and safer at the same time.