G-Body or F-Body?
#1
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Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
G-Body or F-Body?
I'm rebuilding a mild built big block (around 400-410 horse and 500 ft lbs). I have a IROC that needs new floor pans and I need to reweld the frame rails. I have subframe connectors for it but it is a t-top car.
Without caging (sub connectors only) what will offer a stronger rigidity as an entire vehicle? I don't want to put this motor in the camaro if it's going to ruin it. Plus the big block swap headers are way ($600 less) the cost of camaro headers.
The monte isn't much heavier and I'm sure it can be gutted down to the same weight as a camaro.
Without caging (sub connectors only) what will offer a stronger rigidity as an entire vehicle? I don't want to put this motor in the camaro if it's going to ruin it. Plus the big block swap headers are way ($600 less) the cost of camaro headers.
The monte isn't much heavier and I'm sure it can be gutted down to the same weight as a camaro.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: G-Body or F-Body?
When I was originally looking for a potential race car, I was looking for a G-body. I couldn't find what I wanted and got a good deal on a rust free 87. Rust free being the key word. If you need to spend a lot to remove and repair rust, it's not a good project. The original TPI engine was already removed and an old school 383 sat in it's place. That was back in 1999. There's isn't very much original about my car any more. Finding such a car now in the condition it was in back in 1999 would be very expensive.
If you're building a race only car, cost wise in the long run, you're better off buying someone's old car. Turn key or roller will be cheaper and easier than building your own.
I don't think you'll be making enough power even with a BBC to "ruin it". SFC make a big improvement. As with any other performance upgrade, it's not just about the engine. The entire driveline needs to be upgraded to handle the extra power plus suspension upgrades to get the power to the ground.
If you're building a race only car, cost wise in the long run, you're better off buying someone's old car. Turn key or roller will be cheaper and easier than building your own.
I don't think you'll be making enough power even with a BBC to "ruin it". SFC make a big improvement. As with any other performance upgrade, it's not just about the engine. The entire driveline needs to be upgraded to handle the extra power plus suspension upgrades to get the power to the ground.
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Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: G-Body or F-Body?
Alright thank you once again Alky; I love both body styles. It will be mainly a street car for the weekends and local commutes, it will see the track just about every friday night though.
Are their any huge issues or advantages with either of these cars being used? Which car would have a cheaper and larger aftermarket following (as far as suspension and all that)?
Are their any huge issues or advantages with either of these cars being used? Which car would have a cheaper and larger aftermarket following (as far as suspension and all that)?
#5
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Car: 1994 Z28
Engine: 355 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: G-Body or F-Body?
G-body it is than. Because after swap headers, new floorboards and seats I'll be in it for just as much as I can buy a Monte SS and headers for.
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