My 87 iroc needs a new idler arm (shes loose) and i figured id go ahead and do the ends and center link and sleeves all that good stuff after 25 years.

so i work at a shop with a good alignment rack and ive got the specs for the factory setup through all data but ive seen a couple setups that others have claimed to be a "better" setup than stock. i like to drive the car as cars should be driven so if factory is cool ill go with that but if there is something else that might make my car more fun to drive (its a stick) im all ears.

thanks in advance for any input!

 

As much positive caster as you can put into it, with the R about .5° more than the left (should end up around 4° on the L and 4.5° on the R, give or take)

About 1 - 1.5° negative camber, again more on the R than on the L

Toe in about .030" - .050"

Be aware that the tires will probaby rub on the fender during sharp turns at the rear lower corner, on the side you are turning towards, when the wheel is in "rebound"; e.g. turning left out of a driveway when the right wheel is still on a high spot but the left is needing to drop down into the gutter. You give up that, to get handling and improved tire wear from the RIGHT specs.

DO NOT use the factory specs, NO MATTER WHAT!!! DO NOT let the "tech" give you the "I can't warranty it if it's not the factory specs" line of BS!!!! I'm not sure what back orifice they had their head jammed up into when they came up with those, but they will make the car wander, have a vague "center" feeling, and EAT tires (outside edge) like a dog eats a raw steak.

 

Good advice there.... the factory alignment specs suck.

It looks odd to see the tires with a ton of negative camber & have them wear even, but it works. I run just a slight toe-in as mentioned above.

 

No worries, I plan to do it all myself. Or at least have one of the other more experienced guys tell me what to do. Yeah, I noticed a little tire rub at times. At least I know its "normal".