Hi there, before I start I would like to thank all the people who contribute their time and knowledge on this site.
I have lowered the car with front Belltech 2" drop spindles, in the rear I have Belltech 2" springs, adjustable lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar. My question is I found some Belltech shocks from summit for lowered vehicles but I have searched here and no one seems to use those. It's item number is 10309N. I see every one uses bilstien hd or tokico shocks. I basically want to smooth the ride in the back out. Also do I still need relocation brackets because I had no trouble dropping it and the alignment shop said they don't adjust the rear. Are there some specific specs I need to give them after this. Again thanks

 

Hey,

Belltech doesn't make those anymore, so you must have snagged a used pair of them I assume? Regardless, what you would need to do on your car is as follows:

1) Adjust the rear PHB so that the rear is centered again. When you lower the rear, the rear-end goes off center and 2" is quite a bit so measure and do this yourself if you have to.

2) About the shocks: Any GOOD aftermarket shock will suffice in the rear (By GOOD I mean Koni yellow, bilstein HD, etc... not sure about other brands though.)

3) Relocation brackets are most likely necessary after a 2" drop. The lower control arm ANGLE must be close to parallel with the ground as possible for best handling. What you want to do is put the LCA's level (parallel to the ground), and then lower it to the next hole lower on the axle side. If you put the body side lower than the axle side it will hop when you accelerate fast, and if you the axle side is TOO low then it will cause snap oversteer. I had mine set to the lowest setting and could kick out the back with 50% throttle in mid corner.. Very scary lol.. Now it's MUCH tighter in the rear (also del-sphere bushings and NOT having poly help, but making it level is better than not having it level.)

By specs, do you mean alignment specs?

 

Those Belltech Spindles are worth their weight in gold

 

Yes by specs I meant alignment. Now will wheel hop help smooth the ride in the rear because this car rides like a tank. My buddy says that camaro a ride like tanks even brand new.
Any way I don't think I dont fully understand wheel hop because when I go over a bump or something it does what any car would do and I haven't noticed any difference other than it being a rough ride. I just did a LS1 6.0 lq4 swap and man do those motors put down torque. I don't intend on racing it though because it feels dangerous because of the new power. I have a 07 Impala SS and its not to far off IMO from the camaro.
Basically it sits low and I love the stance but at what cost. It's just a cruiser with the occasional "red light *** whooping" people seem to want because its a camaro.

 

I snagged them on eBay about 2 years ago, I found later they were rare but I got them for 80.00 bucks. As expensive as tires are I wanted them to last with out premature wear. Without them I wouldn't have dropped it at all. Thanks

 

Hi Wolf,

First of all, NICE 5th gen camaro wheels.. They look very nice!

Wheel hop is when you accelerate from a stop, and the rear end hops up and down instead of sticking to the pavement... This happens because the rear end either gets pushed down into the pavement or pushed up away from the pavement based on the angle of the lower control arm (if the body side is higher, it will push the rear end down into the pavement which is GOOD except if you put the axle mount TOO low, it caused it to push it TOO MUCH which will shock the tire too much and cause snap oversteer which will make you slide unpredictably all over the place with too much throttle (especially with your LS torquey engine).. If the AXLE mount is HIGHER than the body mount, then the axle will get pushed UPWARDS and away from the pavement, and this is what will cause wheel hop.. It is like a momentary loss of traction which makes the rear tires struggle to get grip.. It is also bad for axles if you just suddenly get traction when the tires come back down. So, set the LCA angle properly (axle side SLIGHTLY lower than the body side) and your wheel hop will be reduced.

80 bucks is a steal for those spindles..

For wheel alignment, DON'T USE STOCK SPECS.. They suck. Period. For tire wear, for handling, for stability, etc. Get some negative camber on there... -0.5* to -1* seems to be the norm for good handling on our cars.. For caster, dial in the HIGHEST amount of caster on the passenger side first, and then dial 0.5* LESS on the driver's side. For toe, get 0.09 (3/32) total toe (that's about 0.04 toe in on each side) and your car should track straight, be stable at high speed, and handle much better than before, provided that there are no other problems in the steering/suspension.