Hey yall,
I recently bougth some vette wheels and got some sweet tires and whenevr i hit a bump or turn my rear tires rub somewhere. I replaced the front struts a couple months back but never the rear. Before the new wheels i would bottom out hard if i hit big dips in the road so right off the bat i'm thinking new shocks. I was thinking i wanted to get shocks that make the rear very stiff, if i peel out currently the rear axle will bounce for some reason, I figured stiff shocks would help this. I also figured stiff shocks would make very little suspension travel and thus no rubbing. As you can see in m picture the back sits way lower than the front.
Anyone have any suggestions. I was going to buy bilsteins.

Check the Sticky (up top) about "Lower Control Arm angle..."
Check your spacer situation.... looks like the wheels could be a hair out too far. 2" works with C5 wheels, but not sure about C6.
New shocks might not be a bad idea, but they are not the cure for what you say is going on.

I have 2.5" spacers out back and 2" up front. I hear not a peep from the front but that noise in the back. Would it be a bad idea to grind off the bump stop bolts? Worse case scenario i could weld on a new bump stop bracket if i ever needed to replace it. It would appear to be rubbing on the inside. I could always hammer out some more of my fendor well if i can find the problem.
I may get shocks but i plan to add an entire suspension kit that includes shocks from eibach or something that lowers the car a little.
So do you think that it will not help to get shocks and its probably something bigger than that?
I am definitely not spacing the wheels out any more. I think i will try to beat in the fendor wells a little more and see if i cannot fix this

Get 2" spacers for the back. That is the problem.

Ok... That is bad info for anyone reading this.
Sorry man but I have 19"x11.5" in the rear. When I mounted the wheels the rear wheel clears the fendor by a lot even when I have 2 people sit on the trunk to bottom the suspension out. Also my fendors are rolled. The inside, however clears the inner fendor well by a half inch tops...
So you're saying my solution is to go to a smaller spacer/adapter that will bring the wheel even closer to the inner fendor? I think not.
I will get up under it tonight and see what's up and maybe get some pics

Sorry, 2" is right for the 18 x 9.5 wheels on my car... speaking too soon, I guess, for the larger wheels you have.
Still, sounds like something is hitting. Checking it further is a good idea.
Do you have LCA relocation brackets? They do wonders for rear hookup, when you are on the gas. An adjustable torque arm, is icing on the cake.

So I crawled up under the car and had my roommate sit on the trunk and I might be barely grazing the tire on the fendor well on the backside of the wheel but even at bottomed out it's still about 1/4" clear of the fendor well. I noticed the back of the rim is scratched around the diameter. The lower control arm bolts are not too far from that point and may be rubbing it. So my next question is what are lower control arm relocation brackets and are they better than just buying a nice set of low profile control arms like hiotchkis?
I noticed my rear suspension is super easy to compress too. Putting a little weight on the back of the car makes it drop about 3 inches or more...
So I ran out and got some new bilstein shocks I will try to throw in tomorrow.
I need to fix this problem b4 my car meet Sunday so hopefully I can pull some luck

This is diagram- NOTE comment about lowered cars without brackets (bottom picture)-
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...-bracket90.jpg

Whole original thread- diagrams in beginning of thread are now gone. Thread also NOW rambles on and on...
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...arm-angle.html

Go for a mild angle... steep one good for drag racing only- gives you dangerous handling when driven on the street (I tried one day- it is true!- switched it right back.)

You might also want to think about reinforcing the top of the rear shock mounts. The Bilstein shocks will fatigue and break the stock mounts. You just need someone to weld a plate on top of what is there- make the metal thicker where the shock attaches.

Yup, the lower control arm bolt place is the inboard limit to the wheel space; not the "fender well" or any of the other sheet metal. The next thing that will rub is the jounce stop.

Sounds like you've kinda got a bad choice of wheel sizes on there. Too wide: the inboard side hits the bolt place, the outboard side is way too close to the fender. This rarely turns out well. The rear moves a certain amount from side to side as the suspension articulates; if it's as close as you describe, it is CERTAIN that it will rub heavily while driving. This can get REAL expensive REAL quick. Very very very very very bad bad bad bad bad.

I'd suggest maybe seeing if you can find some other wheels to trade those for, that fit the car better.

Thanks and good info.
I got the new shocks and will hopefully get them in tonight. I will see if I can reinforce the shock mount also.
I did notice that the lca has a bad angle like you showed which between bad shocks and old springs is probably the cause of my wheel hop.
I noticed that my lca bushings look a little work and I'm thinking that whenever I turn the entire rear axle is flexing sideways and the lca bolt that's in the middle is rubbing the wheel.
I am gonna flip the bolt tonight and install shocks and then order me some new lca's from hotchkis and relocation brackets most likely
I will let y'all know how it goes

Most people would recommend me get rid of these wide *** rear rims but i personally love the wheels and if anything will cut n tub the car to make them fit and go bigger on the tires. The LCA is really the only thing close to rubbing on the car now. The tire was precariously close to the fendor well before but i fixed that. I figure if i get some LCAs like the hotchkis ones that are very skinny and smooth i will clear all day. Either that or i will put a little more spacer on it lol. I bottomed out the suspension and i still have an inch from my fendor lip and well so i should be ok.
I will mess with it until i get it right somehow

so i did some more researche and came accross these spohn LCAs that are made for offset to not rub. Called spohn for a price and they are 250 for a pair. Anyone have anything against these or think they will have any issues? I will be getting relocation brackets as well for when i drop the car.
My bump stops are nowhere close to hitting as i have a 19" wheel but if they do i will cut them and modify some new ones elsewhere.
Anyone have any other things i may have missed?

Spohn has nice stuff, I have most of it.. Standard LCA's amd bracket though.. I run a 315/35/17 and have no,issues on a 10.5" rim. I have a 4th gen axle/wheel setup though. My lips are rolled, inner wheen well hammered all to hell and I ground the side of the bumpstop at some point... Maybe for my Weld rims, not,sure anymore.. Goodluck, the bilsteins should be good for you!

I am going to flip my lower control arm bolt around and install my shocks so i can make my sunday car meet and order these LCAs from spohn i think for the future. I have no qualms against chopping the bumpstop if i need to.

honestly i think this will fix your issue. sounds like the shocks are def shot the bils will help that. as for the rubbing flipping that bolt should give the clearance

Shocks are never a bad idea. Whenever I would go over a bump I would hear a bang. Thought it was exhaust rattle, and could never really figure it out. Put on some Koni yellows, took it out, no more bang...imagine that.

Wheel hop could be bad shocks too. I know on my circle track car we put too soft of rear shocks on and it would wheel hop like a mother under braking. I think launch wheel hop is probably LCA angle, as stated above though

So. I got new shocks, beat the hell out of my fendor wells and got these sweet LCAs from SPOHN... Problem solved. The custon LCAs were cheaper than if i had bought a performance set too! SPOHN you are a lifesaver!