Over the weekend I took the Camaro out to the Midwest Musclecar Challenge (www.midwestmusclecarchallenge.com/).

I had a blast, however I now am much more humble about my driving ability.

I have the power, I have the brakes, now I am ready to begin improving the suspension on the Z.

This, is where you guys come in.

Usage
Street - 1-2 times a month to work or cruises
Track - 3 or 4 track day events per year
Autocross - occasionally

Details about the car:
1991 Z28 hardtop

LS1/T56 Stock rear with 3.42 posi
C5 corvette front brakes, factory 91 z rear disks (HP+ pads and ATE superblue fluid)
weld in subframe connectors
Spohn tubular K-member

Suspension
boxed rear control arms
solid panhard bar
Factory 91 Z28 front and rear swaybars (not sure of size)
Eibach sportline springs (fronts cut 1 coil to level ride height after LS1 transplant)
no name shocks and struts from prior to 2003 when I bought the car.

Wheels/ tires
18X8 (245/40/18) front 18X9.5 (285/35/18) rear street tires. 200 treadwear

Be aware, I am not a rich man. changes only come slowly when I can scrape together extra cash. I need a priority list to tackle for best bang for the buck.

Questions:
1) I know I should replace the shocks/struts. should I jump straight to double adjustable or is there a less expensive option that will help?
2) Have I totally screwed myself up by cutting the coils on the Sportlines? What rates should I target?
3) Should I skip coils and struts and convert to coil overs?
4) Can I have a good setup for both track day and autocross without changes?

 

I see two major weaknesses in what you have now - both can be easily remedied.

1) 245 width tire on the front is way too narrow - your car (even with the LS motor) is still slightly front heavy and needs a 275 or 285 up front also (same size on all 4 corners).

2) Your shocks and struts are going to limit control of your suspension, thereby negatively affecting handling. A single or double adjustable set (Koni as an example) will allow you to tune the dampers to your track and driving style.

Coilovers are nice, problem is the price, the possible tire clearance issues, and the possible bump into higher classes at the track. I think people are mesmerized with the import car coilovers and assume they will furn a fiero into a ferrari with just that one change - not how it works in reality...

 

Unfortunately, 245/40/18's are the same diameter as 275/40/17's. I can't go taller as I rub a little at lock now. I do have 275's on 17s that I run at track events and autocross, but they are all old ss camaro or corvette wheels.

Looks like new struts is #1 on the to-buy list. just need to save up 800 or so for the set.

the only reason I mentioned coil overs is I hate spending money twice. if I upgrade the struts now then plan to move to coil overs later I would rather just take the plunge. It sounds like they aren't worth it for me.

 

I was referring to a 275-35-18 tire for the front, which is the same diameter as the 275-40-17 sized one. Even a 285-35-18 is only 1/3" or so taller than a 275-35-18 tire, not much at all.

Even 245-50-16 tires rub at lock - nothing to worry about. We are talking parking lot problems, not normal driving or racing.

I definitely understand the spending money twice argument - like others on the board, I try to bring this up in threads where it is applicable.

Maybe others can chime in on coil overs, but you can get the QA1 struts threaded for coilover springs, but without the hardware (use stock type front springs). You can always convert later without buying anything twice.

 

If it were me, I'd just go with Koni singles.

Pat

 

Konis are probably the best option for these cars aside from Penskes.

In a few years I might have Guy get a set for me.

 

QA1, koni or what would you guys recommend? Ocassional strip,mostly street ls3 powered 85

 

On a budget
Weight jack setup homemade or ground control or pro kit
Koni or bilstien and kyb agx being the cheapest
9.5 wide wheel , having a 275 or 285 up front makes a noticeable difference

Qa1 or any other coil over setup seems a waste of money but that's me

Purpose of them is to corner balance car and you can accomplish the same with weight jack setup for less

I like most bang for buck

Cutting springs can increase spring rate which will improve handling to a extent some member have success with cutting iroc springs for handling improvement and lower car

 

Dampahs & Rubbahs! - Koni yellows and tires #1
#2 in conjunction with #1 - Spohn strut towers - control the struts!

Weight jacks through the frame rail are not expensive - but labor intensive. These will give you adjustable ride height. You can do coil-overs in back, but don't do them in the fronts. You now would have height adjustment and damper adjustment.

This is more expensive, but if you added FSL brakes with bridge bolts - you could drop your height, stiffen your dampers, and swap brake pads in less than 45 minutes!

 

Koni's are on sale thru 5/31 for $617 for all 4 corners:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...koni-sale.html

or go direct:
http://www.tunersports.com/products....cturer=&page=1

 

Make good point about strut tower
founder's performance have decent priced strut towers

 

I wouldnt worry about the cut springs. Springs can be tuned around regardless of what rates they are.

Koni Yellows are probably your best bet for struts/shocks.

What kind of rear LCA bushings do you have? I really liked the improvement I got in predictability from going from poly/poly LCA's to rod/rod LCA's, but any sort of joint that allows articulation will work.

 

should i use shocks or coilovers? price is not much of a problem

 

I'm sure i'm repeating things others have said but this is my best

Yes but you will get to the point where you will want to make changes cause you'll be leaving something on the table with one or the other or sacrificing streetability . I change my camber settings and strut settings between street and track. I don't run enough different tracks to try very many settings. so far i run autoX with -3* camber. the street and large tracks at -1*. i run my konis at full hard on the track and full soft on the street.