Looking for feedback guys. I am looking to possibly go the aftermarket route. Years ago all suspension got replaced with Energy Suspension parts for the whole car. I hardly ever drive the car, and at this stage of life am a bit more towards the "comfort" lean of things. The car handles great now for what it has and what I do, so it's rough enough vs handling. (Setup now : Bilsteins, Eibach Pros, Mac/Alston subs, TDS wonderbar, KB lower chassis brace and strut tower brace, UMI LCARB's. - and looking to throw on UMI subs as well. Also looking to go UMI adjust TA with TA relocation)
So the question is Lower control arms and panhard. Who has used Founders 3 piece poly bars? How are they holding up? I was looking to go UMI poly stuff, lower control arms non adjust and adjust panhard... and was looking at the roto... I don't want rod, too rough. Is the Founders 3 piece poly close to being as non-binding as roto? Or am I good just going 2 piece poly for my needs. I have never tracked/auto crossed ever...may want to try just for fun someday??? How have the rotos and 3 piece poly stuff held up for guys running either?? I know 2 piece poly setups last years.
I figure I can get away with the non adjust control arms but will go adjust panhard for sure.
Thanks lads

 

We have a mixed bag on the roto -vs- Poly bushings. Everybody's tolerance for noise is different so you'll get mixed testimonials.

I think If you are basically a street application like you stated, Poly will work fine if not best(ride Quality) The biggest mistake made when installing Poly is that people overtighten it! If you torque Poly bushing components to factory torque specs it is too tight and will bind. Meaning you will smash the mounts against the poly bushing face too hard and cause the bushings to make noise,crack and turn in the component.

In a race application poly components will bind when put to these extremes. This doesn't mean you can't attend an event now and then and still have good results.

In a nutshell, choose the bushings that suit your application based on whether you are trying to achieve good ride quality or a non binding suspension.

Craig

 

Excellent! Sounds like just poly will be fine for me then. The car will spend more than 99% of it's moving miles simply on roads, and as we know, most roads (around me anyway) are in rough shape. So I'dd rather have a car that handles great, but is still comfortable.
Thanks Craig!

 

I have the UMI roto-joints. Only got about 400 miles on them so far and haven't made a autoX or track day yet. I like them. I don't notice any more noise than stock bushings. Like you I enjoy regularly driving my car but when I hit the autoX course or a HPDE I don't want to leave anything on the table. Been autoXing for 6 years, with a couple HPDE's.

UMI is right, you have to be going pretty hard to find that bind with poly, but do you really want to find that snap oversteer going all out? Not me, buy the good stuff now, not when you outgrow the cheaper stuff.

I believe you can't have to much adjustment in your suspension BUT that is only if you have the ability to adjust it properly. Adjustable panhard is a great idea regardless.

 

Thank you for the words of advice as well. I know for sure I'm going adjustable panhard, I 'figure' I can get away with non adjust control arms. I'm about 80% on the poly/poly... but still 20% eyeing the roto....

They give us too many options, lol!

 

My personal opinion is that the roto will ride better than the poly, simply because it can rotate in any position and never bind. I have full roto on PHB and LCA and I found zero extra noise compared to stock.

 

I had poly RLCA and panhard bar and went with the Founders 3 way poly and it was a better (not as harsh) ride... The ball on the inside is much harder, the outside cups are softer and being that it is able to actually rotate (not bind if it were all poly) it seems to do exactly what it was designed for...

I'm happy with them... And can't beat the price...

I do mix and match... I got UMI Torque Arm, Spohn & Alston SFC's, etc...