So I am contemplating a mini ladder bar setup. Now don't start to jump all over me and start talking about beating a dead horse or throwing rotten tomatos at me but has anyone built a fully functioning one? I see they used to make them but not many people ran them. I am not a corner carving kind of person but occasionally take the on ramp fast (ok you can laugh at me now).

Here is my thought behind it, the full out drag racer won't want this setup because they will already have a 4 link or similar setup. I think this would be great for the weekend warrior or someone that is looking to try something new without fabrication skills. My plan was to start with a weldable sleeve rod end on the car end of the LCA. Add an adjustable threaded link on the differential end. This will allow the rear end to move up and down independently and will not bind the rear suspension. Onto the mini ladder on top, short bar attached to the differential with custom bracket tying to the LCA bracket and small bracket incorporated into the top of the LCA. Now call me crazy but I think it might work without the problems of the more rigid versions I have seen other places.

I don't want to hear the nah sayers but if you have something constructive feel free to add.

 

I think the biggest issue with that setup is the ease of which it will bind.

 

They are too short to be effective, and will bind a lot. I've seen a few different takes on these over the years, and usually they break in the center where the upper link is attached

Lakewood used to offer their lift bars which are pretty much the same idea but with the link on the bottom. They work ok for a straight line car, but again they tend to break.

The Southside traction/lift bar setup works pretty well and is stronger, and supposedly is going to be made again.

 

the SSM bars do work...the guys who had installed right love them..
the set comes with subframe Connectors (best ones made I think) driveshaft loop and lift bars...
and they are making them again...(call and get a date)
have had mine on for over 23/24 yrs

 

Good to know I would rather not have to go through all the money and RD to get something that works.

I know it moves the center of gravity really far to the back of the car. Do you know what part of the rear ends up binding?


I really don't want to have to cut up the car to get better traction with the removal of the torque arm. I am also considering one of those Sinister kits that uses a shorter torque arm and tunnel mounted bracket. I'll look into one of the Southside traction/lift bar setups.

Thanks for the help guys!

 

So I have been looking at the SSM bars and what allows the rear diff to actuate (for lack of a better term) when one tire is raised without the other going up? I think that would add a lot of twisting stress to the axel tubes. If you added one of QA1's "Weldable sleeves" bearing style ends it should allow the axel to move without twisting I think.

Link to rod end.
http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-rela...eeve-rock-ends

 

I've never noticed any binding persay... Driving on normal streets pulling in and out of driveways with lumps and bumps... making them today one should be able to make them fully adjustable.. But to be honest once you set your pinion angle for an automatic/maul.. and you're ride height.. I've never had a problem the car has always lunch Arrow straight.. And Driven nice...

I just look at their site .and I still don't see the lift bars/Subframe connectors listed..

I will say they work...Tq is pushed down as the car moves forward.. with just under 500hp 90/10 struts 4.11 and a 3200 stall MT ET streets 28x12.5back in the 90s the car was pulling the wheels at the track all the time(10 to 12 inchs)...this is with stock front end. and not stripped down to a gutted out rattle trap..(power windows.tilt glass windows even cruse..)