Building a strong suspension
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Joined: Aug 2016
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From: Tampa, FL
Car: 1992 Camaro Rally Sport
Engine: "Stock"
Transmission: 5 Speed T5 WC
Building a strong suspension
So slowly I'm getting around to my 92 Rs, my first car and just overwhelmed with it all. I'm trying to go down the list on what all i should buy for my suspension, in no way am i trying to lower it. I want a good sturdy suspension, its a tbi so i had to look a little for a 3 point strut brace. Have my mind on getting Jegs sfc (part # 64714), just because its bolt on honestly but if anyone can point me out another bolt on kit for less id appreciate it. Im honestly a little lost on what the torque arm benefits the car and i was reading about the torque arm relocation bracket (?) Maybe i have that wrong, but the only one i honestly saw said its specifically for the automatic late 3rd gens. When it gets to the front and rear sway bars im understanding the whole composition of a sway bar is the bar itself,the busing and the links. Is that for the front and back? Im honestly just trying to compile a list of what to do as far as a total suspension upgrade goes, i was following one 92 rs i saw but it was just a strut brace, panhard bar, and subframe connectors. I know there's so much more i can do. If you reply could you you guys go from what i should start my upgrades with to what i end off with please.
Re: Building a strong suspension
The typical improvements are (in no particular order):
Polyurethane bushings throughout. Del-Alum bushings for the A-arms.
Tubular adjustable torque arm.
Tubular adjustable panhard bar.
Wonder bar (if not so equipped).
Sub-frame connectors.
Tubular (or boxed) rear lower control arms.
Strut tower brace.
There may be a benefit to lower control arm (rear) relocation brackets. (A must for lowered cars).
That about covers it.
Certainly there are steps beyond that but the above will most certainly firm up the chassis.
Polyurethane bushings throughout. Del-Alum bushings for the A-arms.
Tubular adjustable torque arm.
Tubular adjustable panhard bar.
Wonder bar (if not so equipped).
Sub-frame connectors.
Tubular (or boxed) rear lower control arms.
Strut tower brace.
There may be a benefit to lower control arm (rear) relocation brackets. (A must for lowered cars).
That about covers it.
Certainly there are steps beyond that but the above will most certainly firm up the chassis.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Car: 1992 Camaro Rally Sport
Engine: "Stock"
Transmission: 5 Speed T5 WC
Re: Building a strong suspension
The typical improvements are (in no particular order):
Polyurethane bushings throughout. Del-Alum bushings for the A-arms.
Tubular adjustable torque arm.
Tubular adjustable panhard bar.
Wonder bar (if not so equipped).
Sub-frame connectors.
Tubular (or boxed) rear lower control arms.
Strut tower brace.
There may be a benefit to lower control arm (rear) relocation brackets. (A must for lowered cars).
That about covers it.
Certainly there are steps beyond that but the above will most certainly firm up the chassis.
Polyurethane bushings throughout. Del-Alum bushings for the A-arms.
Tubular adjustable torque arm.
Tubular adjustable panhard bar.
Wonder bar (if not so equipped).
Sub-frame connectors.
Tubular (or boxed) rear lower control arms.
Strut tower brace.
There may be a benefit to lower control arm (rear) relocation brackets. (A must for lowered cars).
That about covers it.
Certainly there are steps beyond that but the above will most certainly firm up the chassis.
but besides that i appreciate it, are the Jegs sub frame connectors a safe choice i guess lol? Re: Building a strong suspension
Seeing as these are production parts we're replacing, there's always room for some improvement. The adjustability of the torque arm allows you to dial in the pinion angle. While it may not be necessary for a vehicle that has had nothing done to the suspension (as in lowering springs for example), any changes along those lines would mean this bit of the suspension geometry should be revisited. The same for the panhard bar. It will allow you to properly centre the rear axle between the wheel wells. If you should ever lower the car, this will offset the axle and you can adjust for that offset. If you are at stock ride, it still may be necessary for this adjustment. As I mentioned, these are production parts and to go along with their relative weakness', they also have tolerances that can be improved upon.
As for the Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets, they're a benefit to helping with traction. Again it comes down to proper suspension geometry and what your intentions are for the vehicle. Most guys who drag race here, have the LCARBs as these, when properly set, aid in planting the rear tire more firmly.
I'm not familiar with the Jeg's SFCs. I have Spohn's and they do a fine job.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html
I can jack up the left rear corner for example and the entire side of the chassis will come off the ground. Combine that with the 3-point strut tower brace and there's a great deal of improvement with regards to chassis flex.
As for the Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets, they're a benefit to helping with traction. Again it comes down to proper suspension geometry and what your intentions are for the vehicle. Most guys who drag race here, have the LCARBs as these, when properly set, aid in planting the rear tire more firmly.
I'm not familiar with the Jeg's SFCs. I have Spohn's and they do a fine job.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Top-Cars.html
I can jack up the left rear corner for example and the entire side of the chassis will come off the ground. Combine that with the 3-point strut tower brace and there's a great deal of improvement with regards to chassis flex.
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: Building a strong suspension
If you stick with these cars long you will start to put performance part brand A with performance part brand B that connects with Performance part C. Everyone of the brands will be off a little or cause something else to change. Sometimes adjust-ability cures that. You 't carlso run into issues with changing rear ends, changing springs, removing weight, that adjustable parts can cure. If the car isn't built to stock specs it's always better to go with adjustable.
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