I was wondering in the Hanyes manual they call the bar above the diff. a track bar is this the same as a panhard rod? Also I heard you should get a new panhard rod if you car is lowered
(Mine is 1 3/4")? If this is true do you need the adjustable one? Im confused so any help would be much apperciated.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=track+bar

Needing the adjustable unit depends on if you have any rubbing or not. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...anhard+rubbing

Same part, different names.

It's like the centerlink/relay rod issue.

Your rear end can be out of alignment or not centered and will not rub. If your car is lowered it would probably be a good idea to get an adjustable panhard. I would definately recommend Mr. Spohn's piece, I just ordered it and it is a very nice product.

Take measurements of each side from the fender lip to the edge to the tire. Mine was only 1/8" or so different side to side after lowering. So an adjustable phb wasn't worth it in my opinion.

Hi, i have an 86 irocz w/new struts and shocks, and if u look closely at the back of the car, on one side the tire sticks out farther past the fender lip, i mean maybe a 1/2" to an 1", is the panhard bar the problem? thanks

in a sense, yes. as the springs get weaker the car lowers. then the rear pushes to one side because of it. you can remedy this with an adjustable panhard rod. also the panhard rod bushings could be bad.

My T/A is resting on an Eibach ProKit which dropped the car about the advertised 1 1/2 inch. I also have a Spohn adjustable panhard rod. When I put everything in, the panhard rod was set to the standard length. The drivers side wheel was further towards the outside of the car than the passenger side. In simple words, the rear axle was not centered by about 2 inches. All it took to fix this was shortening the new panhard rod. I'd definately recomment the Spohn bar as well. Good stuff!

ok so what you are saying is that either my panhard bar bushings are bad. or that the whole panhard bar is bad? im planning on ordering a set of intrax 2" lowering springs. do u think if i purchase the adj panhard bar it will solve the problem of one side sticking out farther than another, and will compensate for the lowering of the car? thanks

Yes, an adjustable bar will solve the problem.

Nothing is "bad" on your rear end, the geometry has just changed. Because your axle is closer to the frame, less distance is needed to connect them to each other. The stock panhard rod is one fixed length to accomodate stock ride height. When you lower the ride height, the stock panhard bar pushes the rear axle out toward the driver's side. The adjustable rod lets you shorten it, so that the axle is centered underneath the car. If I can find a link that better illustrates what I'm saying I'll post it.

originally posted by AT4 T/A:
Just as a disclaimer, "At least as far as you know". It is possible that something is wrong. I had a budy that bought an '83 TA used. After driving it for quite a while (about a year) a clunking noise in the rear of the car suddenly started occuring and you could feel the car shift around when this happend. After inspecting the rear suspension we found looseness in the body side panhard rod bushing. A closer look revealed the problem. A previous owner (or someone that worked on the car for them) had lost or broken the specialy designed panhard rod bolt and had replaced it with a regular bolt and nonlocking regular nut that was much smaller (1/4"-5/16" or so). While the bolt was tight he hadn't noticed anything wrong but the bushing sleave on that side of the panhard rod was not centered over the mounting bolt hole, it was off center against the small bolt. He didn't notice it until the nut came loose and there was a bunch of slop where the bushing sleave was much bigger than the bolt. I have also seen bent panhard rods which would effectively be shorter.
This might help:

Think about those compasses that are used to draw circles and arcs that have one leg with a point on it and one leg with a pencil strapped to it.
Put the point in one place and the lead horizontaly (level) straight out from the point. The point is like the body mount side of the panhard rod. The lead is like the axle side. When the car is sitting at rest the panhard rod is supposed to be level, parallel to the ground (both ends the same height from the ground). If you hit a bump and the axle moves up towards the body (or if you lower the car so the axle is closer to the body, or accelerate so that the rear of the car squats) that is like moving the lead of the compass up. the line drawn does not go straight up, it travels in an arc around the point of the compass. Likewise, if you go over a rise in the road and the body lifts off of the axle (or if you jack the rear of the car up, or brake hard so that the rear of the car lifts up) that is like moving the lead down from level. It still travels in an arc around the point. This is how the rear axle moves on the end of the panhard rod. The longer a panhard rod is the "straighter" it's arc of travel is, and the shorter the rod is the more "curved" the arc is, so in any panhard rod system, the longer the rod is the "straighter" the rear end moves up and down with less "side to side" movement.

Now, When the car is at rest and the panhard rod is parallel (like it is suposed to be) the axle is as far to the drivers side as it will get. Then if the body and axle move away from each other or closer together it will follow the arc of the panhard rod and the axle moves toward the passenger side.
When you lower a car (or the springs sag and it lowers itself) the axle is moved up along the arc of the panhard rod and the axle moves towards the passenger side. Then when you hit a bump (or accelerate, etc) and the axle moves up it moves even closer to the passenger side. However, when the body lifts away from the axle (rise in the road, braking etc),since the panhard rod is no longer parallel with the road, instead of just moving to the passenger side, first the axle moves towards the drivers side until the panhard rod is parallel, then it begins to move back towards the passenger side as the rod goes beyond parallel.

While an adjustable panhard rod will center the axle in a lowered or lifted car when the suspension is at rest it does not correct this change in the axles movement. The "truely correct" way to correct the panhard rod for a lowered car would be to raise or lower the panhard rod mounting points as needed. The adjustable rod is just an "easier" way to center the axle when the car is at rest, but does not actually correct the "geometry" of the bar and the altered side to side movement of the rear axle.

I hope this helped and didn't confuse anyone further.

ok thanks, i understand what you are saying. but i have not lowered my car. i havent touched the springs, just replaced the struts and shocks. but whenever i look at my car it seems like the backend is raised up, and sitting higher than it should. does this have effect why the tire/fender lip doesnt line up? does anyone know if you can buy a panhard bar and the bar of bracket peice that holds it? and what is that called? thanks!

Yes, as stated the axle travels in an arc. As it is raised or lowered in relationship to the body it moves side to side as well. If the rear of the car is higher than original then the axle will be shift to the side. Even from the factory when new the rear axles were not always dead center when at rest though.
Not exactly sure what you are asking here.?
Yes, you can buy panhard rods both adjustable length (aftermarket) and non adjustable stock length (OEM and aftermarket).
Yes you can buy the brace rod that is above the panhard rod (OEM and aftermarket). It is called a stiffhard rod and as far as have seen they are only available in stock length.(no reason to change the length of it)
As far as mounting brackets go I have not seen any direct F body replacements available, just custom fabrication type stuff. Welding would be required to replace them. New relocated panhard and stiffhard mounting holes can be drilled in the stock brackets for lowered cars though.

alright thanks for all info! what aftermarket companys make the panhard brace (stiffhard bar). so do u guys think that the height problem of my backend being higher is because of the panhard bar and brace. cause the springs look stock. thanks!

The panhard bar and/or brace will not affect ride height.

alright, ya i figured as much, but just had to ask, it might be that it has larger springs on the back, and high profile tires which i hate and need to get rid of! sometime i hear a clanking noise when driving it souns almost like its right near the drivers side rear tire? could this be the panhard bar right! i need to know where to get the stiffhard bar, because it is slightly bent. thanks!