Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

must do's when lowering

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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 11:07 PM
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91rsrider's Avatar
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From: rochester ny
must do's when lowering

ok im planning on lowering my car with a set of eiback pro kit springs.ive seen that when you lower a car you have to change a few rear suspension parts such as the panhard bar,adding LCA relocators,and the such.i just wanted to know if all this stuff is absolutely needed in order to maintain proper suspension geometry for normal driving or if it just beneficial when your at the track by eliminating wheelhop and traction loss.i want to try and see if i can get an idea on how much its going to cost me total to lower my car.thanks for any help guys!
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Old Jan 15, 2002 | 12:40 AM
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lonsal's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Re: must do's when lowering

Originally posted by 91rsrider
ok im planning on lowering my car with a set of eiback pro kit springs.ive seen that when you lower a car you have to change a few rear suspension parts such as the panhard bar,adding LCA relocators,and the such.i just wanted to know if all this stuff is absolutely needed in order to maintain proper suspension geometry for normal driving...
Yes it's important. For street driving as well. You are screwing up the geometry of the LCA's when lowering the car. Can you drive the car without LCA relocation brackets? Sure. But you'll spin a LOT more easily off the line whether from a stoplight or launching from a christmas tree at the track. But you can convince yourself it was a BIG power adder and that's why you spin the tires a lot more easily. But you're only fooling yourself.

...or if it just beneficial when your at the track by eliminating wheelhop and traction loss.i want to try and see if i can get an idea on how much its going to cost me total to lower my car.thanks for any help guys!
You can get by without the LCA relocation brackets for a while if your budget is limited. I have Pro-Kit springs on my car as well. I had Spohn LCA relocation brackets welded onto my 9-bolt rear end. Then that rear end died on me. I swapped in another 9-bolt, but didn't have time to have LCA relocation brackets welded to the new rear end. I spun more off the line if I punched it (and that was going from a 3.45 ratio where I have more torque to spin the tires to a 3.27 ratio). If you take it easy you're not going to break anything by waiting. But if you get bad wheel hop after lowering you will do damage. The wheel hop is hard on a rear end. Now on to answer the question you haven't asked; "Do I need an adjustable phb after lowering?" Maybe. Until you lower the car and measure the distance from the rim to the fender lip on each side you won't be able to answer that question. The adjustable panhard bar will center the rear end under the car side to side. In my case after lowering the difference was about 1/16". Not enough to worry about. I recommend setting aside money for an adjustable phb, but wait on actually buying them until you measure. I recommend that you measure the difference before lowering as well. If it turns out you don't need an adjustable phb, then you can put that money towards the LCA relocation brackets. Lon
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Old Jan 15, 2002 | 08:34 AM
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wiggy'sIROC's Avatar
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From: Mt. Home, ID
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 305 going to 355
Transmission: 700R4
Good info Lon, I will use it to my benefit also!

Mark
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