In rebuilding the front suspension I see that the center links being sold are incorrect everywhere (Oreily, Rock Auto). They do not have the flat spots on the bottom for the magnet tool to align to the frame as shown in the factory manual.

Also they are 23 1/8 to 23 3/16 centerline. I believe the correct one is 24 1/2 but I don't have my original to measure. The 23 1/8 steers horribly even after full shop alignment because I believe it's in a trapezoid config being to short.

I've ordered a McQuay-Norris DS1049 New old stock that looks correct.

Does anybody know what gives?

 

Looks like most of the other replacements I've seen.
my original center link has a slight drop in the middle for extra oil pan clearance i guess?

TRW
Moog
My original 89 WS6 centerlink

 

Those all look correct as they have the flat spots on the bottom for the alignment tool.

If you don't mind,, can you measure them. My bet is they are 24 1/2 top center stud to top center stud.

 

It's a older picture, not sure when ill be in the garage again

 

I find that my mevotech centerlink steers very well despite missing the flat spots for the alignment. I haven’t had any troubles with bump steer or anything except for the car following the crown of the road which was somewhat of a problem before the install and could also be due to a run-in with a curb not long after I finished replacing everything. Hope to have that problem sorted out soon.

Let me know your findings, I’ll pick up the part if the difference ends up being great enough.

 

I have an 85 IROC. I have what I believe to be the original center link off the car. It has the flats as you describe and is appx 23 3/16" centerline to centerline.

 

They No Longer Have The Flat Spots I Replaced Mine In 2014 With This GM Unit And It Had No Flat Spots

 

I just bought the ones in my picture less than a year ago and they have flats.


You can also use the nuts to go off of

 

Yes everybody seems to be switching to fake copy casting. It is not the same as stock. The casting with flat spots is different than what they are selling now everywhere.

The gray one is the correct one at 23 1/8" in my opinion. The black one is Mevotech at 23" which doesn't match the rock auto pictures anymore for the part entry.


here the ones with flat spots like stock are 23 1/8

 

We sell ProForged front end parts, the center link has a black coating with no flats and 23 3/16" center to center. Some of the cheaper ones don't have any type of coating which causes surface rust and they are used on several similar vehicles. The ProForged are more expensive but in 3 years of using and selling their parts they do seem to be better quality.
1982-92 Camaro/Firebird Proforged Center Link (screamingchicken.com)

We also sell the center link as part of a front-end service kit:
1982-92 Camaro/Firebird Front End Service Kit (screamingchicken.com)

 

scfbody, Just looks like the same inferior part that ALL the parts houses are selling now at TWICE the price... Sorry no thanks!

Attached is a picture of why the flat spots are so important. You transfer the drivers side height to the adjustable passenger side idler arm as the steering gear box is fixed.


using the frame as reference with the GM pointer tool.

 

Different center to center measurement, no flats and black coating instead of bare metal so a different part. Unfortunately Holley owns ProForged and sets the pricing, they don't offer much margin on any of their parts. I sell Proforged because it is a better quality part than other brands available based on the last 3 years experience. For some reason Detroit Speed is also owned by Holley but sells Moog front end parts and double what Moog normally sells for.

 

This one is coated, it's gray instead of black..

I see that Moog is no longer selling their center link part on Rock Auto, the last ones sold here a few days ago as dealer close out.

I don't believe these companies are making these themselves. They are all buying from whoever now and slapping their name on the box like GM/AC Delco does. AC Delco remanufacture steering gears are done by CarDone, etc.

 

The flat spots aren't necessary.
you can align the link measuring from the inner tie rod nuts.
Just make sure both are equal distances from the ground, assuming your concrete floor is flat.

Or you can use a bump steer gauge.
That's how I Precision measure mine.
(Assuming your inner/Outer tie rod are equal lengths)
If bump steer is equal on both sides, it's set correctly.
If the idler arm was too low or high, the inner and outer tie rods arn't the same height.