Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Torque arm, Sfcs, 4 link? Yehahh!

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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 06:51 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Torque arm, Sfcs, 4 link? Yehahh!

Whats a good non wallet raping SFC + torque arm setup?

I'm looking at SSM's setup, its like 470.00 from summit.

Basicly, I wanna fix the problem of my tranny (T5) hitting the damn floor between shifts, and hopefully with the SFC's solve the problem of my doors and hood becoming out of alignment. heh.

Any recommendations? place to get 'em?

I know spohn makes a torque arm. DOes it bolt to the tranny though? I was thinking about something with a cross bar..

I was also thinking of getting some stock metal and welding it up. SO before I get any more bad ideas, any suggestions?

Comp engineering I guess makes weld on's. Says "requires rear frame relocation" wtf??

-- Joe
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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 09:05 PM
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I got the SSM subframe connectors. They don't really fit with the dual cat setup. I welded in a "bracket" I made that stopped the rattling. I'm pretty sure the problem was the AIR tube hitting between the SFC and the exaust pipe. Some companies make ones that'll fit, but if you've only got one cat it shouldn't matter. Just be foreworned because they had told me they'd fit.
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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 10:51 PM
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From: Orange County,NY
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
Spohn's torque arms bolt to a new cross member that replaces the stock one.Which in turn also removes the torque arm mount from the tranny.So that sounds like it is what you are looking for.I run Alston Racing tubular subframes,but Spohn makes subframes too,look on his site,I am sure he has everything you need for your car,and at fair prices.Another manufacturer you can look into is BMR Fabrication.I installed a complete torque arm & subframe package into a buddy's '93 Z,very nice products also.Hope this helps you out some.
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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 11:02 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Hi,

Thanks for the reply. The only thing I didn't like about steve's subframes (if I remember correctly) is they weld to the floorpan, which has been replaced in my car and I wish not to weld anything to it.

I'll look at his site some more. Thanks..

Any more recommendations, welcome!

-- Joe
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Old Feb 22, 2002 | 11:35 PM
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
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you don't necessarily have to weld them to the floor pan he just recommends it, it helps to tie everything in together.
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 09:41 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Hi,

Comp Engineering makes a kit -- traction bar + subframe connectors. Kit is like 215.00 at summit or jegs. Anyone use it?
Part # is 3017..


Both Jegs and Summit stock it, so I imagine its not .. bad?

-- Joe
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Old Feb 23, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Consider welding in the SFC. Bolt in SFC are about as good as a bolt together roll bar. Although they will work, the constant flexing and twisting of the chassis will eventually elongate the mounting holes. If they're welded in then they become part of the car and chassis and will make it much stronger.

Consider a front mounting point of a SFC. Since my were custom made I can only do assumptions but you'll get the idea. Welded in types, the front mount may have 4-6" of weld holding the SFC to the car. How many bolts are used in the bolt in versions? I'll guess 4 but it may be only 2. 4 bolts at 3/8" or 1/2" diameter don't have much contact area around the bolt. That's all that really holding the SFC to the car.

Even if you bought and installed a bolt-in kit then drove to a welding shop to have them welded in is better than just leaving the SFC bolted on.

There are a couple of pics on my pages showing the SFC.
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Old Feb 24, 2002 | 09:55 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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you might want to look in to a ES poly trans mount while you'er at it, i don't think you'd have enough flex in the unibody to allow the trans to hit the floor pan with out some other signs of flex ,like cracks
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Old Feb 24, 2002 | 06:29 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Hey Steve, Ede thanks for the replies.

I definately want a weld-in. And I've got plenty of welding equipment.

You think the poly mounts are that good? I've gone through a couple of the stock rubber ones, and that was when I was pulling 13's out of the car..

I was thinking of just getting a trac bar kit to replace that silly torque arm. Looks like if it doesn't rip the mount out, it will break the tranny. heh.

-- Joe
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 08:50 AM
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The poly tranny mounts are definitely that good. I went through two rubber mounts in a couple months running mid fourteens...put in a poly and haven't had a problem since.
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 07:26 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Hey,

I ended up going witht he SSM subframe connectors. Spohn is not even taking orders, and they appeared to be the best bet so far.. (weld in, of course).

Anyone have experience with Jegsters torque arm ? It looks like it will plant much better, but not have the bad cornoring side effects as a ladder bar.. Its like 260.00, which doesn't seem too, too bad..

Anyone know of the dimensions tho? Jegs phone reps are not the easiest to deal with.

Thanks.

-- Joe
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Old Feb 25, 2002 | 10:01 PM
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From: Orange County,NY
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
I helped a friend install the Jegster torque arm in his '94 Z28.It was a fairly easy install,and was very nice quality product.Only complaint I have is the pinion angle is not adjustable at all.I highly recommend to anyone that is looking to really improve traction to get a torque arm that is adjustable.Otherwise I liked it for the price.
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Old Feb 26, 2002 | 11:36 AM
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the only reason your t5 is hitting the floor is because of the tranny mount
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