Hello,
I immediately suspected the transmission mount. Changed it did not help. I checked the drive shaft for play, and it seemed fairly tight to me. The noise is strange because it will only "clunk" when first put into gear. The noise is also more noticable, to the point where it shakes the car, on jackstands. The noise also occurs if the car is moved into reverse from neutral but it is a lot less minor. It sounds like its coming from the passenger side or middle but thats just a guess. The car is an 89 IROC 350, Borg Warner 9 bolt rear, recently rebuilt 7004 trans with shift kit (maybe 15k miles), steel driveshaft, poly trans mount.... I'd think this would fall under suspension.

TIA
Martin

 

U-joint. No question in my mind from what you described.

 

yeah sounds like the U-joint mines doing the same thing its been getting worse and worse i need to change it but im trying to put it off till i get a new rear but i dont think im gonna be able to...if i go straight from park to second or first it clunks HARD...everyother gear is noit as bad i can feel it in the rear end...feels almost like its shocking it when you gear it

 

Thanks Guys, I'll dig around the board to figure out what I have to do. Is it hard to change? Would it be something I could put on the back burner or something I should try and do ASAP?

Thanks Again,
Martin

 

your gonna have to remove the rear end from the driveshaft

 

Ok, would it be just as easy trying to find an AL driveshaft and swap that in, instead of taking the car in to get the u joints changed? So far it seems I'd need to heat the joint up to remove it and I may not be comfortable with doing that. I saw one or two quotes around 100 for getting the joints replaced, and an AL driveshaft can be had, with joints, for not too much more. I'm assuming of course I'd be able to swap the driveshaft in myself.

Thanks
Martin

 

Changing the U-joints is more of a PITA than it is hard. I've been able to get some out just by using a vise and two sockets and others I've had to heat and beat on before they would let go and come out. If they've been changed once already then you won't need to heat them at all since the plastic that was injected as a retainer is already gone.

Realistcly if you pull the driveshaft and take it to a shop it should cost you very much at all if the shop only has to press out the old one and press in the new U-joint.

 

That sounds good, I think thats what I'll do, thanks again guys as usual, you've been helpful.

Martin

 

While you're at it, check your rearend for play. As the rearend wears it can clunk when put into gear. Excessive play or worn bearings, or both can cause that. Also while the driveshaft is out, check the tailshaft bushing in the rear of the tranny (should be no play).

Any play in a u-joint is considered unacceptable, especially in high performance applications.

 

Ok, next time I'll have a chance to get at the car will be over that Easter Weekend. I plan on bringing it back to school with me. I may not have enough time to get at it, should I find time before making the trip, or is it something I can get to soon? I don't have a driveshaft saftey loop, so if it were to come loose that would be bad.

Thanks,
Martin