Hello everyone, I'm a new member but a long time Thirdgenner. I have a 1992 RS V6 with the th-700r4 that I got way back in high school and am now going to sell. I recently bought another 1992 RS, this time with the LO3 V8 and T-5 Manual. I always loved the look of the 91-92 RS Camaros and wanted one with the V8 and manual. So, I finally got one with only 68K miles on it and its bone stock from what I can tell. Now, I have been into 3rd gen Camaros and Firebirds ever since I was in middle school, so I know the LO3 is seriously lacking in the HP department. The torque seems to be its strong point getting 255ft-lbs@2400rpm. At any rate it will be a HUGE improvement in power over my 3.1 auto! Anyway, my question is and I have searched and searched these forums...what can these really put to the rear wheels? HP and Torque? I don't want theoretical answers, I mean real dyno results. I know I need to put headers, y-pipe, high flow cat, and flowmaster american thunder cat-back on. I guess I need an open element too. Anyway, with my 5-speed and those mods should I see 200hp at the wheels? Who has? Also, what else does everyone think I should do? Should I go with Edelbrock TES TBI headers? What heads should I go with in the future? I wanna make this thing faster than my 2003 Stratus R/T Coupe! Help me out guys!

 

the most accurate way to get readings from your car are from doing a dyno run, since no 2 cars are exactly the same. what one fella has on his car may not work the same way on your car, by that i mean the numbers may not be the same. if the engine has lots of miles on it then expect sloppy results a freshly rebuilt 305 may/will make the difference. once your make the power you want you should invest in stiffening the chassis and keeping or getting the power to the ground the stock chassis has lots of flex and wheel hop will make the difference between a perfect ET and a horrible one. The L03 from some stand point has its limitations. where the 305 stops making power the 350 starts.

what are emmission compliances in your state? if you have none then dont bother with a cat and dont waste money on the AIR tubed headers, ditch the EGR and have a chip burnt to eliminate it in the computer.

 

Yeah, I live in Maryland so the emissions are a must. The engine only has 68,000 on it so I don't think it should need a rebuild right now. I know this has been asked somewhere but, are the Edelbrock TES TBI headers or some sort of shorty headers better for the 305 TBI? Thanks!

 

i would get hooker 2055 headers, i have never been impressed with the edelbrock TES headers, they air-tubes stick down into the ports, and the collector and y-pipe are a crappy design.

and i know i sound like a broken record in my posts... but after exasut, open element, and of course a good tune up. get into tuning it. get the equipment for doing chips, and dive in. i gained 9 tenths and 6mph in the 1/4 mile by doing the tuning on my basicly stock LO3 (i have a cat-back, and open element).

 

emissions huh? welp...

id spend my money first on chassis mods/suspension/brakes/steering


then drop a nice LT1 combo in there. emissions legal. and decient power.

 

I'd go that way also, first chassis/susp/brakes/steering. Then the engine. Nuber of mods needed depends only on your wallet and goals with that car. If you need a nice daily driver with just a little more performance i'd stick on 305,even though some might say it sucks. I am not yet an expert on lo3 but i think that about 250hp wouldn't be a problem to get out of that engine yet keeping it a daily driver. If you swap gears to your rear end and loose some weight it gives good street performance. Anyway it is up to you, but remember, no matter how fast you are there will allways be someone a bit faster

 

i know dont if i like the TES or not i know a guy who has them what a PITA to get the spark plugs out (i had to slot a socket to get the plugs out), not only that arent they over priced? I have to keep my headers emmission legal also, i opted for regular headers w/o AIR tubes and im going to make a 4port junction block and run it down to the exhaust that way its not craming up my engine bay and i dont have to look at the ugly things. and i can remove and cap it after smog tests. im running heddman shorties too. w/o AIR you save about $150