Thanks! does it matter if the vehicle is a TBI unit sitting on a 350 1992 camaro? I might just take a trip to the bone yard.

 

Do you happend to know the part# for the TBI unit?

 

There was no 350 TBI ever in a camaro but you can use a unit from any 305/350 caprice, roadmater and certain cady's. You can use truck TBI units as well but IIRC there may be a few slight differences. You should be able to find an f-body or caprice TBI unit. The castings were all the same with minor differences in the TPS and injector sizes. You only need the housing seeing how you can re-use your current sensors and inejctors. I would check the shelves at your local junk yard as well. They often times take TBI units and pile them up in a crate. So don't give up if you don't find a car. Just call around and ask. Do not pay more than $35 for a unit unless it is from an LO5 (350 TBI). That way you would at least get the larger injectors (which you don't need now but you can sell them or hold onto them for when they are needed).

 

Found this on my first Ebay search.

'92 TBI unit

 

im going to bid on it

 

$25.00 is as highest ill go on that... and im being outbidded each time I place a bid....

 

It sounds like you are on the right track. Let this be a lesson to everyone. Your local speed shop doesn't know as much as you think they do. They work on cars to get them running in OEM condition. They don't always understand the consequences of adding miss matched parts. There are even experienced speed shops who won't dyno tune a TBI car correctly. Just ask JP and azolfan. The only reason why we know so much about these motors is because we are stupid enough to keep them . In all honesty most of us have tried a trick or two with our 305 TBI's only to have it blow up in our face. You learn a lot really fast. Much like you did in this case.

 

With $25 for shipping I would stop to. Just go through your phone book tommorow and call a few salvage places. You will find one. Make sure you search various f-body classified sections as well.

 

27.00

 

Shifty I just bidded on some items! wanted to get your opinion on whether I should get some more stuff.

1.)I want to replace my Oxygen sensor should I get this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

2.) I bought this because it says its for a 305 TBI and looks new will this fit my 305 or did I make a wrong move?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT

3.) Should I bid on this GM Rochester TBI rebuild kit?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

 

4.) Should I buy these gaskets for my new intake as well?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WD1V

I know these are dumb questions but... I really want your expert opinion on everything before I start purchasing these things to make sure everything is compatible.

I will start working on my car on sunday. I will begin the process sunday morning and will take pictures to show you and everyone my progress, and for help as well. (First I have to find a way to remove my brother 1948 Chevy out of the drive way!

 

5.) Also my brother works at a hot rod shop as a welder, so Im thinking about buying these headers what do you think?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7987194074

 

I would buy all of your gaskets at a local auto parts store. They are redily available and you will avoid any shipping charges that way. I would also get an AC delco 02 sensor. You can buy them from www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.newgmparts.com. Even the GP sornsen ones at auto parts stores would work. Aftermarket 02's aren't a good idea for these cars. They often feedback at a higher resolution than the ECM can read. They can cause your car to run funny. I had a Bosch sensor and had to throw it away.

That intake appears to be a stock replacement unit. You got it for cheap so that is okay I guess. I only say that because the $25 you spent on it may be cheaper than having your stock unit cleaned and hot tanked.

Those headers are for G-bodies and not f-bodies. You need to spend some time in the exhaust forum before you buy headers. Any F-body header will bolt up to your motor but there is a lot of other things that need to be taken into consideration. I would do a lot of searches for "best headers for a 305 TBI". The stickies will help. You won't want headers without a 3" cat and cat back first.

So cliff notes.

Keep the intake and even that rebuild kit

Buy your 02, and gaskets from autozone or equivalent.

research headers before you buy. You need to know what you want and if you need/want the AIR on them. Knowing a welded doesn't get you far if you have miss matched exahust components.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

DON'T start buying things like headers until you get the rest of the engine running well (i.e. fix the leaky fuel system, coolant leaks). The last thing you need, and us to suffer from reading about, is how you spent several hundred dollars on headers and the engine still doesn't run right.

Get the engine fixed, & learn while fixing it. You wanted reliable -- work towards it. Better perfprmance can happen AFTER you get the car running well.

Lastly -- don't rely entirely on eBay. eBay can be fine to buy some items IF you know what you are doing and know what they would typically sell for. example: I'd buy an intake manifold for $25 (and an extra $10 for shipping, $35 total) from eBay because it would cost me at least that much to pull one myself (and get filthy) from a junkyard. But I wouldn't spend more than $50, especially if it was just an ordinary passenger car intake. You can get good deals on eBay IF you know what you are doing (you don't - yet) and IF the seller is reputable.

 

I have couple questions for you....

1. What autoparts stores do you have by you and did you price the parts you need there?
Parts from these stores are not that expensive and require no shipping and HANDLING charges. Once in while I have to go to one or two stores to get the parts I want cause they sold the last one(starter and such). But that was because I wanted the parts that day. Usually they can have what I need the next day or two cause they have them in there wharehouse.

2. Why do you feel you need to replace your intake wich is stock with a new one that is stock?

The gaskets get old and leak not the piece of allum. Just take the one that you know is meant for your car and have it HOT-TANKED(cleaned) at your local machinceshop. Usually same day service if dropped off that morning.

As far as your TBI unit. One from the junkyard is the way to go. You can get an idea on the tools needed by taking yours off(since you have to do this anyways). Providing that you go to a U-pull-IT junkyard. (edit) when you pull your old one off car it will give you an idea on what you are looking for at the yard.

Full tune-up stuff is good idea while at it. Sparkplugs,wires,cap-rotor. If funds at limited spend the money on Sparkplugs at least. Old sparkplugs might not perform so well from the other problems that you are fixing. Would hate to see you fix intake and Tbi and have your sparkplugs causing the rough idle cause of improper firing.

Here is what Parts run around me at ADVANCE AUTO PARTS.

1. Starter $71+$28 dollar core charge untill the get old one.
2. spark plugs $14
3. Fel pro intake gasket $15
4. Tbi rebuild kit $7
5. Gasket sealers,fluids,etc.....

Ordering stuff from Ebay is fine but it will still land you in the Autoparts store to buy stuff in #5. anyways good luck wich ever route you take.

 

I did both order stuff on ebay and autoparts store! I will keep you all updated! Hopefully tommorow it begins!...

 

Did you check the battery? Sometimes the clicking noise can be a weak battery, I check that first before buying a starter. If it is the battery remove it clean the terminals on the battery and the wires, charge the battery. Iknow a while back i thought i was having trouble with the starter, turned out the battery was dieing on me from a bad alternator.

Good luck getting that back up and running.

 

Hey bro if you need any help what-so-ever (parts from junkyards around here, help with installation, etc.) just let me know.

I'm about an hour or so away from you so yeah!

 

The Battery is new! so I know it isnt that, the alternator looks old.. and so does the starter.. so it can be either one.

 

Thanks man, I'll let you know.

 

You clean the terminal wires up real good that connect to the battery and the terminals them self on the battery?

More and likely if it is not your battery than its the starter.

Anyways Good luck to you. ?You have a nice car.

 

Be careful when removing whatever ya need to remove when changing the intake manifold gasket ... my project lasted until I said enough's enough.. that was past 2 or 3 AM.. and I had to get up at 5 AM

I broke the heater control valve ...

Anyway... just got a chance to finish it all tomorrow

Yes .. incredible but true ... haven't had a chance all week


WHY ?? .. OK.. military housing ... newer one.. with weird rules.. such as.. no leaving cars behind your own garage

So no room in front of my house.. ahd to push it across the street.. well.. at night hard to get all stuff over there.. including good lighting

Anyway... this weekend. tomorrow... should be up and running again


Regarding junkyards ... whatever ya may find.. double check with your own car first

I spent a few hours removing stuck rusted messed up bolts.. to get front and rear swaybar off a Z28 ... just to discover that I already had that size on my RS .. lmao

 

Removed Hood (No I dont play soccer those arent mine)


Covered the TBI with a pepboys bag


Thermostat Housing leaking...



Want to remove AC dont know where to start or what to do?


Ready To start just need help dismantiling the A/C,TBI,INTAKE



Covered it with some peice of wood I found in my garage.


Help Awaits!

 

First I want to remove the TBI and intake before I remove the A/C

 

It might just be my computer, but at the moment I can't get your pictures to show up.

 

wierd I can see the pictures and so can others I send the link to..

 

Remove AC?
Do you want to just remove it from your car all together or Just to get it out of way to remove your intake? If to get to intake you shouldn't have to remove it just that metal brace from it to your intake.

As far as to do the job.... A glanced back thru the other posts on this thread and me included(SORRY) didn't mention for you to INVEST in what would be the best thing you could get for your car. Co$t about $20 and is two types you can buy CHILTON or HANYES MANUAL. Either or would be fine. Some will say one is better then other but for most part they are same. It really is preference.

Once you get on of them read thru the sections you need for area of repair. And also the lt1 cam swap sticky.

From your pics I did notice you had some containers to hold bolt and such. That is a good thing. Might go one better and get some masking tape and marker to lable the containers of what you putting in there to help with rembering what goes where when returning parts back onto your motor.

Take more pictures from side angles and from the back. also at any point where you feel you will need a visual reference when you go to put your parts back on. Will help on the "where does this part go." Putting labels on stuff like hoses will help out also like #1,2,3,etc before you take pics that way you can get better reference.

Once again good luck!

 

Im using firefox and haven't had a prob seeing pics since begining of this thread. If that helps anyone who fail to see them.

 

Oddly, I can see all the pics except the ones he just posted (the second to last post on the 1st page).

 

I can now see some of the pics. Do not remove your AC until your car is fixed. You would be creating a whole new set of problems. Save that fro another weekend after you have spent a lot of time reading up on the matter in the archives of TGO.

It appears that someone used a sloppy amount of RTV to seal the thermostat housing. You will fix this when you pull the intake.

 

One thing that if I remember correctly isn't exactly lined out in the Haynes manual .. since it covers all 82-92 models.. ie... inline four.. V6 ... carb V8.. TBI V8.. and TPI V8 .... it just says some models one may have to touch the A/C .. others.. not

I have A/C on mine. and I was H A P P Y to see I didn't have to even touch it in order to remove the intake manifold

 

On LO3 3rd gens you won't have to touch the AC other than the suppoort bracket that connects to the front of the intake.

 

I can see the pictures now.

I have to agree with everyone, don't mess with the AC just yet. Get your car fixed and running, and then later you can get rid of it.

Pretty much all the info you need (except for rebuilding the TBI unit, which the directions that come with your TBI rebuild kit should explain it step-by-step), is in the LT1 cam thread. Only focus on Steps 1 (but don't remove the radiator or the water pump, since your not swapping cams), 3, and 4 for disassembly, and Steps 12, 14, and 15 for reassembly. If Shifty's guide doesn't answer all your questions, post it here.

 

Ok guys, I now know not to remove the a/c after it is fixed, but I have read some of the articles and have the Haynes repair manual, but I still need hands on training with someone who has had previous experiance removing the TBI and intake, I just feel I need someone guiding me. If anyone is willing to help me this weekend that would be great if not then I will have no choice but to go ahead and do it myself, also my brother and his friends are use to working on 1970 down muscle cars not late and early 80s and 90s cars so they cant help me much.

 

OK, I have a feeling I should put in a few words here right now .. since I did this not long ago... and now still have to set the timing grrrrr


Things you'll need:


*TBI rebuild "kit" i.e. gaskets

*TBI gasket (the one that goes between intake manifold and throttlebody)

* Intake manifold gasket

* Tube of RTV

* Gasket scraper

* Gasket softening solution/spray (I didn't have this one so I simply sanded/cleaned the surfaces afterwards with a scotchbrite pad attached to a drill)

* Can of carb cleaner


Tools you'll need:

* Torque wrench, not necessary but hell good to have

* Sockets and wrenches hmmm let's see which sizes
14 mm I believe... 1/2 .. and 9/16

* Prybar .... your intake manifold WILL be stuck.. so pry it loose... but be careful

* Distributor wrench/socket .. if ya can't get one... grab a 9/16 socket and grind it down... that's what I had to do *lol* and believe me.. MonsterGarage style it did work


And.. here .. is what to look out for !!!!!!!

Try NOT to turn your distributor without marking it correctly.. I thought I had marked it .. but.. it seems I still managed to either advance or retard the timing .. my idle rpm is right now at 1800 rpm



L A B E L .. EVERY DAMN LITTLE HOSE AND WIRE...

Write ... numbers.... 1 on the distributor .. 1 on the wire... 2 on the distributor ... 2 on the wire ..... X on intake manifold.. X on the vacuum line which connects to the intake manifold

etc etc



Remember.. to let the RTV sealant sit for a couple of hours.. before ya run the engine

Also.. if your engine is overheating.. now might be the right time to change the thermostat .. if it's messed up



This is from an amateur ... if ya want more detailed info... like the guys said... follow the links they gave ya... I did ...

I used the LT1 cam digest... why ? .. Because the Haynes manual is NOT good enough .... I couldn't find the damn heater control valve in it...

 

And I'm used to working on smaller older Italian carburated inline four cylinder engines ...

*lol* Main difference between newer engines and older ones ... just more wires.... so your buddies can help you if you need help

 

They get scared of helping out because they think if they disconnect a wire it may cause some negative affect on the computer and mess things up..

 

Thanks I'll print this out!!

 

Cool makes it more easier for me! as a newbie

 

Is this a good time to change my:

Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Distributor Cap and rotor
Oil Change and Radiator fluid Change (Oil Filter change)
New Water Pump?

Maybe a new aluminum Summit Radiator
(to help out with the heat in socal)

 

spark plugs... good idea. Motor hasn't been running right so this is good.

sparkplug wires... inspect them for burn spots where they might be arcing. Cracks. general condition. IF unsure and have the $ do so. Better safe then sorry. Your friends should be able to help out on whther they need replaced.

Cap-rotor... When you take off the cap to mark location of where rotor should be for reinstall of the dist. Look at them. If you see corosion build up on the metal pieces then good idea to swap them out. If not then it will be fine. Wheter to replace them is same reason as having to replace one in a 70 motor. Post a pic of the inside of cap and TGO can tell you.

Oil change-fluid change... Good idea. Fresh oil is always a plus. Radiator fluild is good also since you will need some to replace what you drained out to do the repair.

Water pump...It won't be in your way so is not needed unless your water is leaking out the pump or not circulating the fluids. Can see when you have radiator cap off. DON'T remove Cap while car is HOT. That will shoot out very hot fluids all over wanting to burn anyone hit by it.

Radiator... When you have the cap off and it is drained(check Circulation before draining) check to see if it looks crudy inside. Like some build up and such. If not then you are fine. No need to replace something that doesnt need to be replaced. If it has some crud inside it and is circulating water. Plan for a replacement but you can put car back to gether to get you motor running right and order one from summit and such.


Not much diference between a 70 motor and a 91 you have as far as removing and replacing intake and such. Treat the TBI same as a Carb and the intake same as an intake. for removal and installation purposes. Only real difference is TBI has wires that hook up to it. Those will unplug and plug back up only to where they are intended due to special conections they have.

Rebuilding the TBI IMO is easier then an Carb. I have rebuilt both. So if a friend has experience with carbs then they shouldn't be to afraid of TB's.

BTW how do the wires with the conectors look for your injectors on the TB? Do you need to repair or replace them? IF you gotta go to J-Yard for new ones make sure you cut it long enough.6 or so inches where they come off the TB. Better to go home with to much wire then to little.

You mentioned fan come on with motor. Did you check for jerryrigging(hacking) of the wires and buy a new switch.(Replace this before you put new radiator fluids back in).

 

Pulled the codes out at work and here they are

15
23
54

can someone help me?

 

15 = Low temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
23 = Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Throttle position sensor error
54 = Low voltage at fuel pump OR
Low voltage at Fuel pump relay OR
Output failure at quad driver module


It sounds like you need a new CTS sensor. That is on the front of the manifold next to the thermostat housing. This is a cheap sensor and it is a good idea to replace it seeing how they can really cause havoc if not opperating properly. That may solve your other problems.

 

Now would this be anything to get ?

http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.138.944

 

Only if your stock one is broken. You can buy a GP sornsen unit for $9 without any shipping. You guys only need to fix what is broken. You seem to be just randomly linking parts that don't necessarily pertain to your problem.

 

Actually I was just wondering ... since I'm going to install a toggle switch anyway ... cheaper

 

You mean this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

 

I do not have the appropriate tools for this my brother took all his tools to this hot rod shop he works at...... and without tools I cant work on it.. so im paying a shop that works on american muscle cars

about $300.00
to install the intake and tbi

I have no choice I need this done fast.

 

No that is not it. Go look at the one in your car. It looks just like that one because that is the one you need. I would put the ebay searches aside for now. You are only confusing yourself.