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How to: Clean up your TBI Engine bay... cheap!

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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #51  
88 Z28 Guy's Avatar
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From: St.Amant, La.
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Auburn
I cut my cat air tube off, since it was already penched shut near the cat. I run a breather on both of my valve covers. A while back i capped off both of them and my dipstick shot out of its whole and oil went everywhere, so i put the breathers back.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #52  
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From: Red Lion, PA
Car: 91 Camaro RS, 99 Camaro Z28
Engine: L03, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, T56
Axle/Gears: bunch of 10 bolts how scary is that
Originally posted by Dewey316
The valve stops coolant flow to the heater core, when you have the heater turned off. There is really no major effect to getting rid of it. When you take it out, you pass coolant to the core at all times, you can still blow cold air, since you close the door to the heat exchanger, when you turn your temp to cold, it blocks airflow from the core, and gives you airflow from the vents in the cowl.

Hope that helps.
So why in the world did chevrolet put in a diverter valve if you dont need it?

600
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:19 PM
  #53  
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From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Originally posted by Trah84Z
would it be beneficial to run a breather filter on both sides instead of just one?...

I do believe that you need the PCV valve on one side to help vent out the engine.


And that engine bay up top would look 10X better if you painted your water pump and intake manifold.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:32 PM
  #54  
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by crrllmich
So why in the world did chevrolet put in a diverter valve if you dont need it?
Likely for emmisions, with the diverter closed, the engine will heat up a little fast. Much like the air diverter in the intake tract. It does serve a purpose, don't get me wrong, But your heat and AC will work fine without it.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:37 PM
  #55  
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From: Red Lion, PA
Car: 91 Camaro RS, 99 Camaro Z28
Engine: L03, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, T56
Axle/Gears: bunch of 10 bolts how scary is that
Ok that works consider it gone lol.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 03:47 PM
  #56  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
can i remove all those hoses on my tpi or is that all different. im guessing it would be the same and if so would the proceedure be the same?
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 04:42 PM
  #57  
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From: Albany, NY Area
Car: Red on Red 89 RS
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt / 2.73
yeah TPI is a similar setup, ditch the hoses and lines off the manifold like I did.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:14 AM
  #58  
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From: Wisconsin
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Truetrac posi
Originally Posted by Dewey316
The valve stops coolant flow to the heater core, when you have the heater turned off. There is really no major effect to getting rid of it. When you take it out, you pass coolant to the core at all times, you can still blow cold air, since you close the door to the heat exchanger, when you turn your temp to cold, it blocks airflow from the core, and gives you airflow from the vents in the cowl.

Hope that helps.
So for you guys that have removed the heater core diverter valve . . . have you seen any loss of temperature control in the passenger compartement? I've deleted all the AIR system parts and really want to get the heater valve abortion off the top of my valve cover, but I'm curious if flowing hot coolant through the heater core all the time will drive up temps in the cabin, especially in hot weather. Thanks
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 08:33 AM
  #59  
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From: New Jersey
Car: 87 Black Formula
Engine: Rollercammed Lg4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt Locker
I think deleting the diverter valve could possibly wear out the heater core prematurely because of the constant flow. Guess this mostly applies to people who intend on keeping the car for a long time, but still, our cars are getting old, and it's a royal b1tch to swap heater cores IMO.

Just as a sidenote, I always have the fan off, and ONLY turn it on when needed, and then off the first chance I get, to preserve the life of the fanmotor. My experience with other cars, have told me that by the time it's worn out, it's discontinued, and you can only get used ones that you will have to swap over and over.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #60  
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From: Wisconsin
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Truetrac posi
I agree that constant flow through the heater core will reduce life of the core due to erosion. My car is not a daily driver, so it probably would be a problem for me. Just seems strange GM would spend that much money to equip the car the extra hoses and diverter valve without good reason. I'm thinking about deleting the diverter valve, but put a small in-line shut off valve in the line feeding the heater core. That way the engine bay gets cleand up, but I can shut the flow off to the heater core in the summer and turn in on in spring and fall.
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 03:40 PM
  #61  
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From: Moreno Valley, CA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI (L03)
Transmission: 700R4 (MD8)
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open (GU2)
Maybe i'm thinking differently.

But it's my opinion that the heater core might actually last longer without the valve. Think if you haven't used your heater in like 5 months and you had a good amount of build up in there. Then you turn it on and coolant starts flowing through it... what if it got rusted/plugged up so bad that coolant couldn't flow through it? Then it bursts. I think constant coolant flow would help flush it out a little more often..

But that's just my opinion
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #62  
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
cutting off the driver side (exhaust manafold) shield tube would make the engine bay look nicer as well.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:56 PM
  #63  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
Adding something like a coolant lubricant, water wetter or whatever it's called, would probably help.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 10:59 PM
  #64  
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From: Hurst, Texas
Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
I also believe that the coolant diverter valve will shorten the life of the heater core. Deposits will build up in it and cause corrosion when it is off, with constant flow these deposits will be continually blasted out. The heater core in my G20 has been replaced twice in its life. I have a 1980 Chevy truck, that my dad bought new with heat only. It is still on heater core number ONE!
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 12:32 AM
  #65  
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 91 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally Posted by Fast355
I also believe that the coolant diverter valve will shorten the life of the heater core. Deposits will build up in it and cause corrosion when it is off, with constant flow these deposits will be continually blasted out. The heater core in my G20 has been replaced twice in its life. I have a 1980 Chevy truck, that my dad bought new with heat only. It is still on heater core number ONE!
I was of this train of thought as well. I deleted my diverter valve about a year ago, and now about 2 months ago the heater core went south on me. So I question it now, if I were to do it again, I would just because of how much it cleans up the engine bay. Who knows maybe my core was on its way out anyways, but it DID happen somewhat shortly after I removed the valve.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 05:25 PM
  #66  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by 88 Z28 Guy
Also i bought a 98 Belt but it was even longer than the stock one it has on the car, i winded up using the stock one which is a 97, so a 96.6-97 would be the best.
i just got my headers and they are not emmission legal so i am going to remove the smog pump and all i need to know which belt to get? mine is the sepentine and not the v-belt so should i get a new belt or just use the stock one?

also all you guys that removed the diverter valve... how is your heater core holding up? i would like to do this as well but i dont want to have any problems with the heater.

thanks in advance for your help
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #67  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
i just went out and looked at it again. to me it looks like it would need a shorter belt? the belt should not be routed different at all, all taking off the pump would do would make the belt go in a str8 shot from the ac to the crank pulley... im stumped someone pls help so i can put my headers on this weekend.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:42 PM
  #68  
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
i ran mine differently and was barely able to use the stock belt most say you can't and mine was super tight (you need a belt 1 in longer than stock if you use my routing realy). I think the routing is in the tbi faqs somewhere.
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #69  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Originally Posted by 88 Z28 Guy
I cut my cat air tube off, since it was already penched shut near the cat. I run a breather on both of my valve covers. A while back i capped off both of them and my dipstick shot out of its whole and oil went everywhere, so i put the breathers back.
Wow that is the supreme example of trial and error. When something explodes its time to try something different...

As for the topic the ***'s are currently broken due to a downed homepage. Only the boards are functioning
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 10:52 PM
  #70  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
Originally Posted by flaming-ford
i ran mine differently and was barely able to use the stock belt most say you can't and mine was super tight (you need a belt 1 in longer than stock if you use my routing realy). I think the routing is in the tbi faqs somewhere.
have a pic of how you routed it?
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 11:21 PM
  #71  
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
page 3 on my cardomain give some top half pictures.... I had better 1s at 1 time but, i musta deleted them. anyways heres the link to that page

1992 Chevrolet Camaro - Gerry's Chevrolet "September"
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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 01:43 PM
  #72  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
how did you route it around the power steering pump? let me see if i can find a picture of what im talking about. i really need to find out how to route it and what kind of belt i need so the car wont be down for too much longer...

heres the pic.... but to me with the belt going from the ac to the bottom pulley and not bowing out for the smog would'nt i need a shorter belt?
Attached Thumbnails How to: Clean up your TBI Engine bay... cheap!-smog-delete.jpg  

Last edited by maroon88iroc; Apr 9, 2006 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #73  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Are the sensors in that airbox alright to leave open or should I remove them and let them float?
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:34 PM
  #74  
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Can this be Removed?

[IMG][/IMG]
Can this thing be removed?...the hoses appear to connect with the "orb of power" shown in the picture below...can that be removed as well? The other TUbe runs to ITEM #2 in the picture which someone told me was the brake booster....can that be removed?




Last edited by Crusin' 1980's; Apr 10, 2006 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:39 PM
  #75  
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Can this be Removed?

One of The Tubes from ITEM #5 runs to the ITEM #2....does anyone elses setup look similar to this?

Last edited by Crusin' 1980's; Apr 10, 2006 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #76  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Good question..
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 04:15 PM
  #77  
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
Check out my cool new, OEM looking Open Element!!!



Question: How come it only makes that crazy sucking sound on cold starts though?? Like i start the car up in the morning, i hear it..it disappears after like a minute or two... I like that sound and wish it would stay more!
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:10 PM
  #78  
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Thats the IAC staying open. So its technically a vacum leak! Probably not the best to stay open all the time. However, I belive you can modify that in the ECM. Sounds like a supercharger.
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:31 PM
  #79  
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From: Pittsburgh & Allentown PA
Car: 1992 Z28 (Heritage Edition)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Posi
Originally Posted by xlwhellraiser
Thats the IAC staying open. So its technically a vacum leak! Probably not the best to stay open all the time. However, I belive you can modify that in the ECM. Sounds like a supercharger.
Wait...so that cool sound the open element makes that everyone talks about isnt really the open element, but is actually the IAC??? What the hell!!

Also, what is the IAC...i dont know...
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #80  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1
IAC = Intake Air Control valve, located on the TBI
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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #81  
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
hahaha, Your TBI aint pulling as hard as it sounds. However, it does sound very nice IMO!

Now, I was checking out the hoses for the diverter valve (octopussy) and it looks like you can delete it without removing the air pump. However, the diverter valve's got nothing on the air contraption. It goes from the air pump to a square plastic box thats right over the valve covers and than it branches out to about 10 hoses. its crazy! I am not yet sure if I can get someone to pass me for some bills here. So, untill I find that out the air pump stays.
Diverter valve is really not that bad. Unless I am thinking of something else.

laters.
----------
What the hell does that orb do???

Last edited by xlwhellraiser; Apr 10, 2006 at 10:09 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 09:20 PM
  #82  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
I feel like a total moron... I did this and gunked my engine the next day. My car was running like **** so I assumed I got water under the distributer cap. Didnt wanna deal with it so I sent it to the mechanic. He tells me I plugged up some line that through the computer off... wtf? I followed the instructions
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 06:11 PM
  #83  
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From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
i just started to remove the smog equipment and was wondering what u guys did with the plug ins that go from the computer to the emissions equipment. i need help asap.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #84  
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
this probably isn't what you wanted to hear but, i just twisted my 2 connecters between my ac lines they were routed next 2. They haven't moved from that spot yet and it's been a couple months so i won't complain.
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Old Apr 16, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #85  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Originally Posted by r0nin89
I feel like a total moron... I did this and gunked my engine the next day. My car was running like **** so I assumed I got water under the distributer cap. Didnt wanna deal with it so I sent it to the mechanic. He tells me I plugged up some line that through the computer off... wtf? I followed the instructions
Wow i didnt do anything wrong..just wacked a sensor with my screw driver by accident...
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 07:39 PM
  #86  
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From: Ohio, near columbus
Car: 89 iroc-z
Engine: 305tpi
Transmission: wc-t5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi (4 now)
for further referenece after doing these myself i'd like to reclarify a couple things said by the starter of the thread.

For my 1992 camaro rs at least the heater hose on the *frame rail* needs a 3/4 coolant cap not a 5/8 (had to run to the store to buy mine).

Also i had a bitch of a time getting my 90* elbow on completely since it had ridges in it so it wouldn't slip in completely, they basically just made it so i couldn't stretch my old hoses let alone new 1s. So i ended up sanding off most of the ridge on the ridges and wd40'ing the elbow to help it slide on (was still a real bitch).

Anyways g/l and i'll post pics of mine here soon maybe tomorow if i get a chance to clean it and paint it....
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #87  
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From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Originally Posted by flaming-ford
for further referenece after doing these myself i'd like to reclarify a couple things said by the starter of the thread.

For my 1992 camaro rs at least the heater hose on the *frame rail* needs a 3/4 coolant cap not a 5/8 (had to run to the store to buy mine).

Also i had a bitch of a time getting my 90* elbow on completely since it had ridges in it so it wouldn't slip in completely, they basically just made it so i couldn't stretch my old hoses let alone new 1s. So i ended up sanding off most of the ridge on the ridges and wd40'ing the elbow to help it slide on (was still a real bitch).

Anyways g/l and i'll post pics of mine here soon maybe tomorow if i get a chance to clean it and paint it....
Yeah I hit that problem but got it somehow...
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 07:32 AM
  #88  
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Holley TBI Personally Tuned
Transmission: 5 Speed
I cleaned the engine bay on mine and painted it black when I pulled the engine and got rid of everything that I didnt need like all the AIR and EGR stuff and chromed it up a little, take a look!
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 04:12 AM
  #89  
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From: Bradenton, FL
Car: 1997 Camaro z28
Engine: 350 LT1 built to LT4
Transmission: a
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
hey, what IS that "orb of power" thing? a friend of mine has it on his '89 v6, but no one around here has any idea what it is, nor have they seen it on any other car.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 07:16 AM
  #90  
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Holley TBI Personally Tuned
Transmission: 5 Speed
If you mean the round object in the one picture above, that is a vaccum ball and it is mounted under the car directly below the charcoal canister, that would be why you dont really see them on any other car.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 10:49 AM
  #91  
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From: Bradenton, FL
Car: 1997 Camaro z28
Engine: 350 LT1 built to LT4
Transmission: a
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi
so our cars really do have *****...who knew.

so can we get rid of 'em, or are we stuck with 'em?

thanks.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 11:29 AM
  #92  
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Holley TBI Personally Tuned
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Is yours in the engine bay or under the car?
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 12:46 PM
  #93  
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Is yours in the engine bay or under the car?
Well, mine was right next to the battery...and i was advised (after asking about it) to keep it hooked up...but do you think I listened? LOL, nope...i took out the ball and followed the lines that were hooked up to it and removed them as well...as seen in the pictures here...






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I completely removed "ITEM #5" as showin in the picture, along with the Orb and the (2) hoses that connect to it...one of those hoses connects to the BRake Booster, which you don't really need (yes, you need the brake booster but not the extra tube that runs to it)

Last edited by Crusin' 1980's; Apr 20, 2006 at 12:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 12:49 PM
  #94  
xjcamaro89's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 446
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From: Pennsylvania
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 Holley TBI Personally Tuned
Transmission: 5 Speed
Does you car still run fine? Your cruise work and everything?
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 08:20 PM
  #95  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
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From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Does you car still run fine? Your cruise work and everything?
well, it doesn't have cruise (didn't come with it)...and i just fired it up today for the first time since October...it started right up, and ran ok for the 30 seconds it was running, but it smelled to awfull to keep it running...I'm sure it will be just fine with that thing gone, alone with the tubes and the great orb of power...
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Old Apr 22, 2006 | 09:19 PM
  #96  
chesterfield's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 475
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From: California
Car: Pontiac
The "orb of power" is called a vacuum tank. Its part of thr hvac system. it provides a vacuum source for opening ac and heater vents.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 08:40 AM
  #97  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Its part of thr hvac system
Yep, I'll see how the system works without it...as long as everything finctions ok, I'll keep it out....anything i can remove from the engine bay is a plus
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #98  
dan_o_89_rs's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: Kentucky
Car: 89 camaro rs
Engine: 305 tbi
Transmission: 700r4

Also a nice touch is to cut off that stove... with an open air cleaner its no good anyway. i cut it, because im just gonna get headers later... but if u wanted to make it really clean u could pull the manifold, then remove it...

btw i didnt see that the brake booster question was answered, so my opinion is dont mess with.

when i removed my air pump and tubes, that heater hose looked goofy sticking way up (that way it would go over all the stock smog-hose junk), i just pulled it off at the bottom, cut about 4 inches off reclamped it and now its tucked down and cleaner looking.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #99  
Crusin' 1980's's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
From: Upstate New York
Car: 1988 SC Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
I added some headers and re-routed some hoses to clear up my engine bay...








Last edited by Crusin' 1980's; Apr 23, 2006 at 08:52 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #100  
r0nin89's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 633
Likes: 0
From: Point Pleasant, NJ
Car: 1987 Chevy Stepside
Engine: 350 TBI w/ a Cam
Transmission: 3 Speed Stick w/ granny low
Nice I cant wait to do my headers and 3" Y to 40's
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