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88 LO5 TBI rebuild,j/w if anyone has any tips or advice about what i should do

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Old May 18, 2006 | 07:47 PM
  #1  
alabamahippie69's Avatar
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Joined: May 2006
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 88 Chevy Silverado
Engine: 5.7ltr TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: don't know exactly
88 LO5 TBI rebuild,j/w if anyone has any tips or advice about what i should do

So, i'm rebuilding my 88 silverado and i just wanted to know if anyone has anything to add. I'm gonna replace the cam, but i'm not for sure of what kind of lifters to replace. Also, is there anything else i should take care of while i have the motor out. Because now would be the best time!
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Old May 22, 2006 | 11:41 PM
  #2  
racer J's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 314
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Car: 1992 Chevrolet RS Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: WC T5 conversion
Axle/Gears: Debatable . . .
I swear that's twice it's insited I haven't been looged in after typing my post. Anyway it all depnds on what you want your truclk to do. Most mods can be done with your engine installed. If you want big power, boost, or juice use forged pistons, rods, and crank. If not cast will work fine for you. Since the engine will be out you might want to consider a new torque converter (for better launches) if you have an automatic or a new clutch for a stick. This would also be the time to address any internal transmission modifications or sawpping in a different tranny alltogether like a T56 six speed lol.

As far as lifters go, the cost has come down since I rebuilt my LO3 TBI for my 88 Camaro in 1997. Back then all Summit had was the more expensive roller lifters at $250.00+ and the GMN dealers weren't much cheaper in the way of factory replacements. Hell the transmission to motor bolts are still $7.00 each to this day from them. Back to the point, I swapped my roller block for a flat tappet one when I had my short block rebuilt. Most of the time roller lifters are fine but mine were worn from a lack of oil and massively warped heads. Quite a bit had to be milled off my heads to level them off so my engine is probably around a 10:1 compression ratio or higher.

These should be a direct replacement for you though if you actually need new lifters. I would stay with a roller block if I were you as there is less friction invovled and far less wear on the lifters. Solid and flat tappet cams will "grind" their respecitve lifters causing you to change lifters when you change out the cam. They are cheap in cost though.

Other Roller Lifter Options

Now would also be the time to consider a stroker motor by using a crank with a longer stroke to increase displacement and longer rods to reduce some stress. After all the entire motor will be apart. You should also consider dished pistons to lower the compression ratio (for supercharging) or domed pistons to raise CR (for juice). Just keep in mind the CCs of your heads will play a bif factor in overall CR. The 305s got 58CC heads and while I don't know the CC # on your heads I'll bet it is larger (in the 60s). Don't forget you have an iron block and heads though so you need to be very carefull wtih CR. The LT1 runs a 10.5:1 because it's alluminum and it's the same with the LS1/LS2/LS6/LS7. They get rid of heat better because of their materials nad their advanced tech.


Again it's all about what you need vs what you want vs your income.
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