how come about once every 2 week my car stalls out when im completely stoped it it neva stall when driving just when im ata light or stopped. what could be causing this like right before this happens the rpms move a bit and then it just stalls.

 

Does it feel like it's missing when you floor it? Also turn on your AC if you have it and remove the air cleaner, you should see the IAC and hear it (loud piece) open. Basically it controls your idle without messing with the throttle linkage. If that doesn't go on and you can't hear it then that might be your problem. When you first start the car on a cold start, does the car idle high then after a few minutes come down to around 600?
If it's not your wires and it's not your IAC then something else is fubar like a torque converter permenantly locked but I'm not sure if that's possible for it to break locked. Anybody else have any ideas, if not I'm going to move it to general tech.

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, Jon (350 TBI! getting 23mpg highway)
91 Red RS w/grey int, sq stereo (Alpine v12, kicker solo, MB quart premium etc)AIM: JPrevost

• Holley 670 TB unit w/ 1/2" spacer/adapter
• Edelbrock RPM vortec intake
• 350ho 330hp vortec crate motor
• 8" harm. balancer
• Stewart stage 2 water pump w/160 thermo
• SLP tri-y headers to full 3"
• Rebuilt trans w/ SLP shift kit
• Centerline 16x8's all around
• 36/24 mm sway bars
• Full poly bushings, even motor mounts
• SLP LCA and panhard
• Alston SFCs
• Edelbrock 3 point STB
• Global west steering brace aka wonderbar
• Eibach pro kit springs
• Bilstien high perf. struts and shocks
• All this and I still have AC

My websiteAny questions?

 

my car used to do the same thing. when i would go to a light, it would stall. It might be faulty Emmission eqiupment. check your egr valve, and check o2 sensor

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Steve
88 Firebird TBI,TH700R4 - Open Element, Cat Delete, K&N filter 14*4 element, Dynomax Catback Exhaust, 160 Stant thermostat
1/4: 16.1@85.7 (Bone Stock)

 

yea after it warms up in drive when stoppped it idles at like a little above 500 is that normal or 2 low

 

This doesn't sound like an emissions equipment problem. My car used to idle at 500 when in drive. It would dip to maybe 400 and come back up to 500. That is normal unless you have a more agressive cam, then a ~700rpm is where you want to idle (me now).
It's very strange that you stall out and don't get any codes/ses light. If it were emissions then the ses light would come on (egr). I wish I could help but you haven't given us much to go on. When you turn the car on, after it's been sitting and cooled down, does it idle high and after awhile bring itself down? If it does then the IAC is working and I can't figure what your problem is. Sorry

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, Jon (350 TBI! getting 23mpg highway)
91 Red RS w/grey int, sq stereo (Alpine v12, kicker solo, MB quart premium etc)AIM: JPrevost

• Holley 670 TB unit w/ 1/2" spacer/adapter
• Edelbrock RPM vortec intake
• 350ho 330hp vortec crate motor
• 8" harm. balancer
• Stewart stage 2 water pump w/160 thermo
• SLP tri-y headers to full 3"
• Rebuilt trans w/ SLP shift kit
• Centerline 16x8's all around
• 36/24 mm sway bars
• Full poly bushings, even motor mounts
• SLP LCA and panhard
• Alston SFCs
• Edelbrock 3 point STB
• Global west steering brace aka wonderbar
• Eibach pro kit springs
• Bilstien high perf. struts and shocks
• All this and I still have AC

My websiteAny questions?

 

This is something you may want to check out. The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) - I've had experience with it doing the same things you described. Turns out it was all rusted and the connector was bad. After I changed that, my stalling troubles disappeared. At first I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Spent over $200 on a new IAC valve, MAP sensor, and thermostat. Hope the CTS turns out to be your problem cause it will sure save you some money.

 

Hey Just joined the Message board, but have been getting info from it for a long time.

Check you Crankshaft position sensor. Often when the begin to go bad the will radomly just shut of, and then everything fuel and spark will turn off. If this is the problem it will occur more often as it gets worse, and eventually will not always restart.

Hope this Helps,
Jordan

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1990 Iroc
Canadian Iroc (305 TBI)
-14x3 open element
-Accel: Coil, Wires, Cap&Rotor
-B&M stage 2 shift Kit
- 4 255/50/ZR16 BFGoodrich Comp TA's
-Hypertech chip, low temp thermostat and fan switch
-1.6 ratio roller rockers
-3" exuast: High flow cat, meanstreak muffler, dual 2.5" outlets