ok guys here we go.. this might sound dumb but i just gotta know.

i replaced my knock sensor a while ago and pretty much, while installing it, it didnt reach all the way to the back of the sensor. it got real tight, so i stopped. my question is, does the back of the sensor have to touch the block to create ground, or does it create ground just by threading it in??

its not leaking, and no i didnt cross thread it. before i removed the original one, it wasnt threaded in all the way either. had about .25" space between the body of the sensor and the block itself. so thats where it sits. im getting code 43. randomly. only when i punch it. and before i go buy the escm, i just wanna make sure it was installed properly.

sooo, thanks as always guys sorry for the dumb question but its the only way ima learn.

 

a knock sensor threads are npt so you will see some exposed threads. Torque or the knock sensor can effect its sensitivity 14 lb/ft.

 

I'm sorry, but huh?? I don't understand your response . It should be exposed?? And torque it to 14lb/in?

 

Threads on the sensor will be exposed and the correct torque when installing it is 14 lbs ft or 168 inch lbs.

 

ok. .got it. gotta check the torque on it.. seriously though that can affect its performance and be causing problems??? thanks for your help TP

 

If it is to tight is will be more sensitive and will cause knock counts. This is a good start to check the torque before you go further and spend more money.

 

appreciate the help TP. ima get underneith it this weekend. hopefully thats it.

 

=)

 

although this is for a tbi truck/van the same information will apply

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/159g...ine-light.html

 

so i got it torqued to 14inlb and it runs a bit better but it throws 43 still. only when its at wot and now only after it warms up to 220. so last thing i would assume is to replace the esc? ive unplugged the sensor before while running, and it didnt change the way the engine idled, but the cel did turn on. what you think?

 

If you get it in there too tight and it ever has to come back out they are a pain in the as$

 

The forced knock test is failing. This is where the ECM advances the spark timing to force the engine to knock. And the ECM isn't getting any knock reported.

The ESC filter could be bad. But usually there are others reasons this test fails. Such as using 93 octane fuel, not having the proper base timing, or the engine has been modified and is more resistant to knock.

To test the ESC system. On a warm engine hold the throttle open to about 1400 RPM. Rap sharply on the engine block with something like a broom handle. The RPM should dip down as the ECM responds to the rapping (creating knock) and pulls timing.

RBob.

 

guess i gotta have the timing checked. i only use regular unleaded in it.

rapping with a broom i assume you mean tapping the block ?

what if there are no changes after i do so? the sensor is new, and so is the plug btw.

 

He means start a new rap band "new broom on the block". Check your base timing first with the est disconnected . Then tap on the block a ball peen hammer will work as well to see if the ecm will pull timing .

 

lol ive always wondered what that meant. thanks for clarifying. i "rap" the block with a broom and the escm still connected right? its suppose to drop the rpms if it is functioning?

the car is bone stock from what i can see, except it has a superchip prom in it. idk why, but at one point the car had flowmasters and no cat, but now its open headers since i bought it like that .

 

so i went ahead and got the escm and let me tell you its almost like night and day difference. no more cel at wot and theres power that i never noticed before. ima have the timing checked and bump it up some to get the most out of it. thanks for all the help as always guys , youve always kept my head from blowing up lol!!

now i think ima need a new rear end.. but thats another topic on another thread lol