replacing fuel pump now... RTV adapter plate? Grease push rod?
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From: Mishawaka, Indiana
replacing fuel pump now... RTV adapter plate? Grease push rod?
Hayne's manual says to coat push rod with heavy grease (to hold it in place) in the block while you're installing the pump (before you tighten the screws i guess.. but is that a good idea? If you've got oil lubing it anyway is it necessary?
part 2: i know i need to RTV both sides of the gasket (between the fuel pump itself and the adapter plate for the block), but do I need to put sealant on between the adapter plate and the block? Don't wanna put it on there if I'm not supposed to.
this is a mechanical, block mounted fuel pump on an LG4 (in case that wasn't clear)...
James
part 2: i know i need to RTV both sides of the gasket (between the fuel pump itself and the adapter plate for the block), but do I need to put sealant on between the adapter plate and the block? Don't wanna put it on there if I'm not supposed to.
this is a mechanical, block mounted fuel pump on an LG4 (in case that wasn't clear)...
James
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
I only dab enough sealant on the gasket to allow it to stick to the fuel pump, no reason to use any more ...unless you like that "RTV look"
No reason to use grease, to hold the rod, should be able to insert it, press the pump in with the bolts in the holes of the pump, and start threading them.
The grease isn't for lubing, just to keep the rod on the cam..never used any myself. Not sure of the newer blocks, but if the loder blocks had a bolt in the front of the the block, you could take it out, insert a longer bolt to put pressure on the rod, and keep it in place...never did it myself, but watched a guy do it once..seemed like an extra step not needed, IMO.
You may need to rotate the engine some, if the rod is sitting on the lobe of the cam...you want iot on the base o the cam, makes it easier to install the pump.
No reason to use grease, to hold the rod, should be able to insert it, press the pump in with the bolts in the holes of the pump, and start threading them.
The grease isn't for lubing, just to keep the rod on the cam..never used any myself. Not sure of the newer blocks, but if the loder blocks had a bolt in the front of the the block, you could take it out, insert a longer bolt to put pressure on the rod, and keep it in place...never did it myself, but watched a guy do it once..seemed like an extra step not needed, IMO.
You may need to rotate the engine some, if the rod is sitting on the lobe of the cam...you want iot on the base o the cam, makes it easier to install the pump.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mishawaka, Indiana
lol yeah that "RTV" look isn't the greatest, but the new fuel pump is a sight for sore eyes among the greasy mess of a poorly-maintained 130,000 mile engine. I installed the pump.. after about 15 mins to seal the gasket to the pump and then to the adapter plate, I couldn't wait any longer and went outside...
The push rod slid right up in there, came out pretty fast but you'd have to be pretty un-coordinated to not be able to stick the adapter plate on there before it slid out completely and hit the pavement below..
Didn't know if I should try to start the car before the RTV sealant had time to 'cure' or not, so I'm waiting til the morning.
I did run into a few things to wonder about... the fuel line that connects the pump to the carb, has a reverse flare nut at both ends and the one that connects to the pump seems to have too many threads- as in everything threads fine but you run out of room... this was true on both the original and the replacement pump.
The other thing I thought was funny was a message that came with my pump:
"Small block Chevrolet V-8 engines (283, 302, 305, 327, 350, 400 C.I.) with normal crankcase pressure. DO NOT FURNISH ADEQUATE LUBRICANT TO THE FUEL PUMP. Moisture can form in the pump and cause premature pump failure.
PACK THE FUEL PUMP CAVITY AROUND THE ACTUATING ARM WITH HEAVY GREASE to prolong the fuel pump life and prevent harmful moisture buildup inside the fuel pump.
So in accordance with my free lifetime warranty I greased the rocker arm cavity...
Wondered if there were any thoughts on that message..
James
The push rod slid right up in there, came out pretty fast but you'd have to be pretty un-coordinated to not be able to stick the adapter plate on there before it slid out completely and hit the pavement below..
Didn't know if I should try to start the car before the RTV sealant had time to 'cure' or not, so I'm waiting til the morning.
I did run into a few things to wonder about... the fuel line that connects the pump to the carb, has a reverse flare nut at both ends and the one that connects to the pump seems to have too many threads- as in everything threads fine but you run out of room... this was true on both the original and the replacement pump.
The other thing I thought was funny was a message that came with my pump:
"Small block Chevrolet V-8 engines (283, 302, 305, 327, 350, 400 C.I.) with normal crankcase pressure. DO NOT FURNISH ADEQUATE LUBRICANT TO THE FUEL PUMP. Moisture can form in the pump and cause premature pump failure.
PACK THE FUEL PUMP CAVITY AROUND THE ACTUATING ARM WITH HEAVY GREASE to prolong the fuel pump life and prevent harmful moisture buildup inside the fuel pump.
So in accordance with my free lifetime warranty I greased the rocker arm cavity...
Wondered if there were any thoughts on that message..
James
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
That's funny, if there were ever any directions/precaution that came with any fuel pumps I've installed, I've never read them
You'll be fine.
You'll be fine.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 113
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From: Mishawaka, Indiana
Mike, I need serious help 
)
Ok, before I replaced the pump:
Car had died... It sat until mid-afternoon (read: maybe choke?) and I got it started, got it home. Replaced the fuel filter, which was missing the black gasket/ring that's attached to the top of the filter. When I took the old filter out, no fuel leaked out. Put the new filter in, car started. Wonderful... pulled the new filter back out out of curiosity, fuel leaked out from the line.
Car started, but still had a lean stumble/bog down problem at anything over about 1/4 throttle. So I replaced the fuel pump. Except now the car won't start. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb, no fuel came out. I pumped the throttle manually at the carb, looking down into it through the choke plate, I dont see any fuel squirting through. Am I looking in the right spot?
After pumping the throttle 15-20 times, I disconnected the fuel line between the carb and the pump at the pump itself... fuel spilled out after I had turned the flare nut only a few times...
So I'm thinking the pump is installed correctly and is working, but fuel isn't getting to the carb. I bought fuel line to switch out tomorrow, but what else can I check?
The choke plate sets itself completely closed after pumping pedal once..
Any suggestions appreciated..
James
)Ok, before I replaced the pump:
Car had died... It sat until mid-afternoon (read: maybe choke?) and I got it started, got it home. Replaced the fuel filter, which was missing the black gasket/ring that's attached to the top of the filter. When I took the old filter out, no fuel leaked out. Put the new filter in, car started. Wonderful... pulled the new filter back out out of curiosity, fuel leaked out from the line.
Car started, but still had a lean stumble/bog down problem at anything over about 1/4 throttle. So I replaced the fuel pump. Except now the car won't start. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb, no fuel came out. I pumped the throttle manually at the carb, looking down into it through the choke plate, I dont see any fuel squirting through. Am I looking in the right spot?
After pumping the throttle 15-20 times, I disconnected the fuel line between the carb and the pump at the pump itself... fuel spilled out after I had turned the flare nut only a few times...
So I'm thinking the pump is installed correctly and is working, but fuel isn't getting to the carb. I bought fuel line to switch out tomorrow, but what else can I check?
The choke plate sets itself completely closed after pumping pedal once..
Any suggestions appreciated..
James
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
OKay, one step at a time
Damn, I'm wordy tonight
Originally posted by dps8315
Mike, I need serious help)
Ok, before I replaced the pump:
Car had died... It sat until mid-afternoon (read: maybe choke?) and I got it started, got it home. Replaced the fuel filter, which was missing the black gasket/ring that's attached to the top of the filter. When I took the old filter out, no fuel leaked out. Put the new filter in, car started. Wonderful... pulled the new filter back out out of curiosity, fuel leaked out from the line.
Mens you had fuel.
Car started, but still had a lean stumble/bog down problem at anything over about 1/4 throttle.
So I replaced the fuel pump. Except now the car won't start. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb, no fuel came out.
To verify pump is working correctly (and rod is not slipped down and bound) I'd first suggest to pull the pump off...
Hold rod against cam lobe, have a buddy spin the engine over ...just a once or twice,,,no extended cranking...best to disconnect the coil wire to ensure she doesn;t dire up on you.
What you need to verify is that the cam lobe isn't flat where the rod rides on...should move in and out about 1/2 inch...maybe 3/8ths of an inch.
I pumped the throttle manually at the carb, looking down into it through the choke plate, I dont see any fuel squirting through. Am I looking in the right spot?
Yes, but only if fuel is in the bowl..if fuel is in the bowl, accelerator pump should squirt it out.
After pumping the throttle 15-20 times, I disconnected the fuel line between the carb and the pump at the pump itself... fuel spilled out after I had turned the flare nut only a few times...
Pumping throuttle won't bring fuel from the pump to the carb...only from the carb to the accelerator pump and into the throat. Gotta get fuel into the bowls first.
So I'm thinking the pump is installed correctly and is working, but fuel isn't getting to the carb. I bought fuel line to switch out tomorrow, but what else can I check?
If fuel rod does actuate, then reinstall the pump (you could bench test the pump...pump the lever...see if you have suction on inlet and pressure on outlet)...have a buddy turn the engine over a few times with fuel line disconected (outlet) at pump...pump should begin to squirt gas (have a coffee can ready..tholler at your buddy to STOP, when you get gas. Check for restriction in line up to the carb, if clear, then install fuel line.
Now that you know you have the ability to pump gas to the bowls (assuminbg all checks out above) and you have no gas in the bowls after repeated cranking, I'd say the float in the carb is the issue...either it's stuck down, or full of gas (via pihole leak and holding it down) and not allowing gas into the bowl.
The choke plate sets itself completely closed after pumping pedal once..
Any suggestions appreciated..
James
Mike, I need serious help
)Ok, before I replaced the pump:
Car had died... It sat until mid-afternoon (read: maybe choke?) and I got it started, got it home. Replaced the fuel filter, which was missing the black gasket/ring that's attached to the top of the filter. When I took the old filter out, no fuel leaked out. Put the new filter in, car started. Wonderful... pulled the new filter back out out of curiosity, fuel leaked out from the line.
Mens you had fuel.
Car started, but still had a lean stumble/bog down problem at anything over about 1/4 throttle.
So I replaced the fuel pump. Except now the car won't start. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb, no fuel came out.
To verify pump is working correctly (and rod is not slipped down and bound) I'd first suggest to pull the pump off...
Hold rod against cam lobe, have a buddy spin the engine over ...just a once or twice,,,no extended cranking...best to disconnect the coil wire to ensure she doesn;t dire up on you.
What you need to verify is that the cam lobe isn't flat where the rod rides on...should move in and out about 1/2 inch...maybe 3/8ths of an inch.
I pumped the throttle manually at the carb, looking down into it through the choke plate, I dont see any fuel squirting through. Am I looking in the right spot?
Yes, but only if fuel is in the bowl..if fuel is in the bowl, accelerator pump should squirt it out.
After pumping the throttle 15-20 times, I disconnected the fuel line between the carb and the pump at the pump itself... fuel spilled out after I had turned the flare nut only a few times...
Pumping throuttle won't bring fuel from the pump to the carb...only from the carb to the accelerator pump and into the throat. Gotta get fuel into the bowls first.
So I'm thinking the pump is installed correctly and is working, but fuel isn't getting to the carb. I bought fuel line to switch out tomorrow, but what else can I check?
If fuel rod does actuate, then reinstall the pump (you could bench test the pump...pump the lever...see if you have suction on inlet and pressure on outlet)...have a buddy turn the engine over a few times with fuel line disconected (outlet) at pump...pump should begin to squirt gas (have a coffee can ready..tholler at your buddy to STOP, when you get gas. Check for restriction in line up to the carb, if clear, then install fuel line.
Now that you know you have the ability to pump gas to the bowls (assuminbg all checks out above) and you have no gas in the bowls after repeated cranking, I'd say the float in the carb is the issue...either it's stuck down, or full of gas (via pihole leak and holding it down) and not allowing gas into the bowl.
The choke plate sets itself completely closed after pumping pedal once..
Any suggestions appreciated..
James
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Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Mishawaka, Indiana
Mike, you rock..
It's pouring right now so I'll give it until tomorrow morning to stop... if not I'll be outside 'renchin in the rain..
I'll let you know how it turns out!
James
It's pouring right now so I'll give it until tomorrow morning to stop... if not I'll be outside 'renchin in the rain..
I'll let you know how it turns out!
James
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